Illuminate Your Path with Confidence! 💪
The MICTUNING MIC-B1002 LED Light Bar Wiring Harness is a robust and versatile solution for powering your off-road lighting. With a 40A relay, a waterproof switch, and a generous 10FT wiring length, this harness supports up to 180 watts, making it compatible with a wide range of light bars. Designed for safety and ease of installation, it’s the perfect choice for any adventure enthusiast looking to enhance their vehicle's lighting system.
J**D
Great product
Great product and great service
**Z
Bueno
Las cables que se dirigen a la batería deberían ser más largos
J**7
Needs More Quality Control
Ordered two of these wiring harnesses to install 2 LED light bars on my Yamaha Grizzly. After some careful modifications, I think they will work well for their intended purpose.However, the manufacturer needs to have more quality control for the consistency of the end product. The two harness are drastically different in how they are wired. Someone with less wiring experience, and perhaps less mechanical experience, might be throw off by the differences causing a potential for wiring the harnesses incorrectly.Here are the differences between the two harnesses:1. The first harness has white & black wires leading from the relay to the lighting. The second harness is red/black.2. The switches are not the same. Since they will be side by side on the machine, this is a problem for me.3. The first harness arrived wired so that the only wire connecting the switch leg to the relay leg is the white wire that activates the relay. This is the way they both should have been wired. The second harness came wired so that all three wires from the switch leg are connected to the relay leg. For the grounding system - that's fine. But joining the red wires means that both the switch and the relay end up being powered directly from the battery. The way the first harness was wired, the switch power can come from a switched source - which is preferable to prevent the light bar from being left on while the machine is turned off/not running.It's easy enough to fix if the installer knows what they are doing...and since I had to shorten everything anyway it didn't bother me. But it would be nice if two of the same product were exactly the same in every way.EDIT: After reading a lot of comments about this harness melting/burning up, I stumbled upon a potential cause. The two harnesses I received varied greatly in terms of what fuse was installed in the fuse holder. Neither of them were sized correctly for the gauge of wire contained in the harness. One had a 25A fuse, the other had a 15A. With the length of this harness being north of 15 feet counting power and ground wires, the 15A fuse would require 14AWG wire and the 25A fuse would require 12AWG wire as a minimum. If I recall correctly, the main power wire from the battery to the relay is a 16AWG wire - which is good for 12A at 15 feet. If the output from the relay to the lamps is only 16AWG, then 12A is all this harness will carry safely. If it is 18AWG (which I think is correct - will verify later and amend if necessary), then the entire harness is only good for roughly a 10A load.This is a little more than a QC issue. With the 25A fuse in the one harness, that load would melt a 18AWG wire at anything beyond 5-7 foot in length. That's a design flaw...Since I know what I am doing...I think it will still work for my application as all of my circuits are less than 7 foot in length, and my largest load is about 6A. But if you are thinking about daisy-chaining a row of lights, or running a big LED bar off this, I think I would look at a different harness, or build one myself.
B**R
Great product. Do your homework before you go to install because documentation is lacking.
Even though I had some issues, I'm still giving this product five stars.I used this harness to put two small 4" LED lights on my Suzuki KingQuad. I wasn't looking to run anything "large", and actually didn't want a huge amount of wire length. I did want the waterproof switch.My biggest complaint is the lack of documentation. Had to use Amazon's Q&A section for this product to get my questions answered:1. The switch only lights when it's toggled on.2. You need to drill a 3/4" hole for the switch and you will get a nice snug fit.3. Ground the relay switch.Grounding the relay switch was my biggest challenge. I was ultimately able to use an existing bolt for the battery bracket because I didn't want to drill any holes in the frame. A longer mounting "arm" or extension would have been helpful here. I wound up just making my own extension using some leftover pieces of aluminum I had from an outdoor electrical box. If you zoom in near the battery's positive terminal you can see it to the left.I'm not a big fan of the pinch on connectors. I chose to strip, twist, solder, and heat seal the connections. This might seem like a lot more work. But, from my experience flickering LEDs are most commonly due to faulty connections than bad components. Wound up with a nice, neat, and well functioning connection. I did have to run about 2 +/- feet of "extra" wire up and around.One negative review mentions that theirs only came with one 5A fuse. Mine came with the four different size fuses as described.
M**O
Installed in a John Deere Gator and here's how I did it...
First of all let me say I installed a 20" LED light bar on the roof of my Gator and wanted to avoid removing all the panels to access the underside of the machine, and if you've ever worked on one of these vehicles, you know what I'm talking about. The section of harness that connects the light to the battery was long enough to run from the roof, along the roll bar and then down the backside of the rollbar on the passenger side and under the seat to the battery. The switch harness however was much, much shorter - 3 ft long at the most and certainly not durable enough to withstand the brush, greenbriar and cactus that I drive through. I sacrificed a 16 ga outdoor extension cord, cut off the ends, cut the switch harness in two and soldered each end to both ends of the extension cord (use shrink tubing to cover the splices). Then I was able to run the new harness from the dash switch out through the firewall and then on top of the floorpan, zip-tying the cord to the control cables that run under the machine and then over to the battery. I also used the MICTUNING (love these chinese names) light bar rocker switch instead of the switch that came with the harness. It fits in one of the spare switch spots on the dash but the opening will have to be enlarged slightly.https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M5YC7Q4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1There was probably an easier way to do this but my wife will tell you, I don't always pick that one. How much time did I spend? Well, at least two cigars over a two day period.
J**.
did not work at first. But customer service took care of it
did not work at first..finally figured out the wires were backwards..Customer service took care of it.
J**.
very easy install
great wiring harness. came with instructions if you need them.
ム**ン
返品しました
24Vの車に対応してない?ので返品しました。
小**野
品物良いです
安くてとても良いです。
E**S
Works great!
Capable or easily hooking up two lights, length was great as well.
P**S
tres bon
tres bon
S**C
Products good, but short wiring
Product seems to be good quality, however the wiring was 4-5 feet to short for my side by side wiring. Not a huge problem for me with an electrical back ground,but it should be longer
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