Delta-MS 5 ft x 65.6 ft (328 SqFt/Roll) Brown Foundation Waterproofing Mat

Does its job. I've installed several rolls of this product. The install kits, extra cleats, Delta Seal and trim pieces are available from the manufacturer, as are larger width rolls.When installing the cleats on a rock/parged foundations, we used 2" Tapcons to hold them.Hammer drill the pilots and sink the tapcons with a ¼" impact. We also used Delta Seal in the pilot and on the cleat.For the trim we drilled and used 1½" lead anchor nails like what are used to hand signs on brick/block.It took a little tuning but once you find your groove it goes fast and neat.110ft of our foundation has been 4ft, which is perfect for this size roll to go over the footing and edge into the footing drains. The remaining 60ft of foundation are 9ft.The added height makes for having to flash the product to extend the height as needed.I inquired as to the recommended overlap for flashing but never recieved a response that directly addressed my question so I overlapped 12" and put down 2 beads of Delta Seal 2" from both edges and one down the middle, put cleats on the exposed edge at 24" centers and another row of cleats 6" above the first row on an offset 24" center.I also installed a double sided drainage mat over the Delta MS to help with drainage to the french drains. This was installed after the footing drains were installed and allowed to fall on top of the footing drains so surface water can travel straight to the footing drains for quicker removal.We had 4½" of rain in 32 hours the other day. Not one drip.The entire process was tuck pointing, parging, radon seal, 40mil dry of RubberSeal, Delta MS, double sided drainage mat, footing drains.Technically 3 layers of water proofing. 4 if you account for the parging(3 layers-½" total) being done with acryl fortification(50/50-water/acryl).It's taken 1 year for my brother and I to hand dig and do all this work on 170lnft of 112yr old stone foundation.

Installed interior drain tile around 90% of my basement. Had done loads of research and took the steps of drilling two or three 3/4” holes in each block and used this products to go down the wall from just above where my floor was (which was easy to see where the paint on the wall ended after I broke up the floor) and then across the footing and over the gravel like 8 inches. Then sealed the top gap after I poured all my concrete with a layer of rubber to keep the moister under the floor since there was a gap between the wall and floor. I had more wall water causing problems and this helped solve my problem completely. I didn’t take many pictures while I was laying it down but it’s the same stuff just cut into 3 sections with a bit left over. I used to be one of the many neighbors who had stuff out on the curb after a heavy rainfall but not anymore! I’m about to buy more as an underlayment/moisture barrier for the floor I want to put in the entire basement before I put walls up.

Good stuff

After installing this as part of a fix for a problematic basement wall, I'm sold. Unless the product were to disintegrate or something, there's just no way a significant amount of water is going to be forced through the concrete by hydrostatic pressure.