Pyle 12" Car Audio Speaker Subwoofer - 1600W High Power Bass Surround Sound Stereo Subwoofer Speaker System, Non-Press Paper Cone, 90 dB, 40 Ohm, 60 oz Magnet, 2'' 4 Layer Voice Coil, Black - PLPW12D

Waited a minute to review till it broke in. I installed it to my factory sub location with factory amp in my Lincoln, and honestly it sounds really good, it doesn't pound even when it's to an after marker Amp (yes i did test it in an aftermarket amp to see) even with that it doesn't pound but holds its own and does sound good and enough accent bass lol, i would recommend for decent Bass. Don't expect it to vibrate your brain, good accent bass

I hope this helps people who don't quite understand the ins and outs of power and wiring your subwoofer.So I have to question those that make claims about them not being powerful enough or they blew up relatively quick. I think this comes down to not understanding,1. Your amplifier and RMS ratings2. How wiring the sub to your amp can cause impedance mismatches.One reviewer said his sub wasn't loud enough. This makes me believe it's wired in series, producing 8 ohms. Another reviewer says their amplifier is 2 Ohms. Well... If it is a mono block, 2 Ohms is good. If it is a 2 channel you bridged down to one channel, a 2 Ohms stable amplifier seeing a subwoofer wired down to 2 Ohms will either fry the sub, or fry the amplifier. I've seen this fry a voice coil in the sub and destroy filtering circuits in an amp. In this situation what happens is both channels split the load. Meaning you are showing each channel 1 ohm. In this case you would just use 1 voice coil @ 4 Ohms.Always check the resistance at the terminals to determine if you are wired correctly.On to the build. These are nice looking entry level subwoofers. Magnet looks good as well. The surround could have been a bit bigger. But hey, less than 60 dollars, can't complain. The bucket is plastic, though it feels rigid enough. Nice spring clip terminals. Nothing fancy. Just a decent design.Power handling. Guys, never go off of max rating. Period. Go off the RMS numbers. If those aren't listed, I use a formula for estimating an RMS value. Multiply price by 5.5. this would tell me the sub is at roughly 150 watts combinedSound is good and got better with about 45 minutes breaking in. It is not hitting super low frequencies. But thats ok, it's just a 10" sub. This is a great bang for the buck.Sensitivity is 90db at 1 watt/1 meter. This is at a specific frequency, I'm thinking somewhere around 50-55hz. So the lower tones, around 35hz have about a 4 db roll-off.In a good box, these should hit about 40hz fairly clean. They do start breaking up around 170hz. So those that want to match at higher frequency's may be deterred from using this sub.

tried as best i could to take care of them and not burn them up, but it didnt work. i broke them in, i warmed them up. pretty sure i never hit the max with these. ive had 400w on cheap 12s before that hit way harder than these ever did. however the motors burnt in one, and the other got stuck and pulled off.this happened while going over a bump that wasnt to bad at all. during the very cold weather weve had recently so maybe that was a factor. it was on my way back home and i feel they were probably warm enough. i thought it was my amp at first because of how they died.id love to try again, as maybe i just got a bunk set, which happens with cheaper stuff, but the price has went up a little. i really wanted to like them. didnt even get to loosen up the foam all the way :(maybe ill try again and change my review

This subwoofer driver I will say is decent for price point. Built the enclosure port tuned to 38hz. When putting it through it paces it would put decent bass into the cab for the trunk even at 32hz but I will say this things nowhere near a hard hitting unit. She puts bass out well but your not going to get a heavy punch like some other nicer 8 inch subs out there that have alot more movement. Have her maxed about around 200 watts before she starts to distort. Would say this a great budget option for an suv, truck, or hatch vehicle with direct exposure.

I got this sub to replace the factory JBL speaker in my 2006 Toyota 4Runner. The thieving Toyota dealer wanted $600 for a new one. A Kenwood of the same size and specs was $96. This speaker was $26 and works better than the $600 one ever did. Now, the holes didn't line up exactly but it was absolutely no problem. Small self tapping screws went right into the housing and secured it just fine. It works very well, and although you can't see it, it looks great and appears very well made. Super nicely packaged. Easy instructions if you need them. Awesome warranty. I'm pretty hard to please and this sub way impressed me. On the fence? Buy it. Seriously good value.

Nice speaker, fit in the box with slight modification but the build quality is bit questionable to be fair the price is good but like stated they build quality is questionable to honest I don't think it's going to last long but I will see and make a update review

Honestly, you can't beat the price and performance.Bought for retail store sound system. Paired with a vented 50 dollar box and a 150 watt amp, sounds great!Some "power active" bass system with and 8" sub that cost 4x more can sound very underpowered.Worked for me.Although, never expected to be a plastic frame 👀

Great product, everything the seller described is accurate. Delivery on time as said. Thank you