AR4000D

This is a Mono amp, meaning you can only plug One Subwoofer into it. For $50, this AMP works flawlessly. It has never turned off from being too hot and I am an Uber EATS driver, so my car is on ALL day. The best part about this AMP, is that is has a Line Out Converter / High Output adapter installed inside it and it comes with wires. My LOC didn't arrive when the AMP did so I was pretty mad, then realized that it had that adapter and was immediately excited again. VERY easy to hook up and use. I recommend this for anybody New to bass systems and looking to install a simple 12". I've got a 1000w 12" Kenwood Subwoofer installed to it. Beats HARD. You won't be dissapointed. HERE'S SPECIFIC INSTRUCTIONS ON INSTALLING YOUR SUB TO STOCK HEAD UNT YOURSELF. - Subwoofer should be in enclosed box. - Amplifier is best screwed to the subwoofer box - Take the Power wire, cut it as needed, and wire it to the BATTERY input on the AMP, then run it to your car battry Positive Terminal. ( I wrapped the wire around it and stuck the Cars wire harNess over it and tightened it ) - Ground wire goes to the GRND input on the AMP then goes to either a bolt in your trunk ( which shouldn't be painted ) or If you have a fuse box in the trunk with a ground wire, you can use that bolt as well. - Blue power wire. That goes to the REM / Remote input on your AMP and runs either to the power wire in your head unit, or a fuse that turns off when car is off. ( I used my ignition fuse. I Wrapped a wire around it barely, so I could get it back into the fuse slot ) Now that your AMP will have power when the car is turned on or in the accessory mode, we can now wire the speakers. Easiest part, just nobody ever describes it good. -Your subwoofer has two inputs on the box and the subwoofer should be wired inside the box as well. POSITIVE TO POSITIVE, NEGATIVE TO NEGATIVE. - Your amp has a positive and negative input. Use the speaker wire you have and wire it to the subwoofer box, from the AMP. Positive to Positive, Negative to Negative. Positive is often times a silver wire, as Negative will be Copper. OFTEN, not for all speaker wire. NOW, the LOC if your bought one, or I'f your using an AMP like this, which came with an adapter installed in the AMP already. - The LOC / Adapter wires both are the same. They have 5 wires and some LOCs only have 4 wires. With 5 wires, there is a ground wire which I used a piece of Negative speaker wire to make it longer, then ran that to where I had the AMPs ground wire. - Locate your rear speakers and figure out which is the Positive connector and which is the Negative. The Wires on the LOC or Adapter wires will be like this if your looking at it POS. NEG. GROUND. NEG. POS. OR if you only have 4 wires without the ground, ignore the ground. When the adapter wires are plugged to the AMP, you'll see which side is Left and Right. So from there, simply tap those wires into the Left and Right rear speaker. You can take the plug off the speaker wrap it around snug, and slide the plug back on. That's what I did. Just make sure POSITIVE is POSITIVE and NEGATIVE is NEGATIVE. The Wires on the LOC are very short and so are the wires on the Adapter wires foe the AMP if you don't have the LOC. If you are using an LOC, once those wires are tapped to your rear speakers, plug in the RCA and match the colors up correctly. Make sure whatever wires you cut, are properly wrapped In electrical tape or if the shrink wrap, whatever you use. Now, turn your Car on and your AMP is ready to go, and your Bass system should now be bumping. Adjust the GAIN and volume on yur amp according to your taste. If your AMP does NOT come on, it's because your blue power wire isn't installed correctly. Best way to test your AMP is find a normal fuse to something that's always on, like a cig ligter. Use different fuses until you get it to turn on then property identify your ignition fuse that way the AMP cuts off when yu turn the key off. Your welcome.

This is a solid amp as long as you don't expect 1500 watts. It's a more realistic 600W max with an RMS of around 200. The fuse is 30 amp, which at 14 volts equates to 420 watts. It's at most 60% efficient, so that's 252W output. And since that's probably still too high, let's call it 200 watts RMS. It sounds good and doesn't distort unless you really crank it up. Even at 200W it shakes my mirrors and rattles the trim pieces. Punches hard and sounds good with an Infinity 1262 wired at 2 ohms in a Scosche truck box. Pros: Sounds good Small, and lightweight Has high level inputs Cons: It gets hot, but I haven't had it shut down on me yet Not anywhere near claimed output So overall, I'm impressed with this amp, at least for the price. It's a solid amp for a good price. If you're looking to add some low-end to your system, this is a good way to do it.

Coming from someone who has owned, since the early '90s to present, many different car stereo systems. From the super expensive, big name stuff, to less expensive systems. I am surprised by the BOSS AR2000M. For a supposedly, "Cheap grade & China made" amp, it performs exceptionally well. (Lets face it, most are made in China,Taiwan, etc !!!). But paired with 2 PYLE 15" 1500 watt, single voice coil subs, wired parallel for 2 ohm imp. (max. power) and mounted in a quality, quad-vented solobaric box, it Freakin Bumps!!!. Excellent bass response, no distortion, and great overall sound quality. It has good features, quality contacts, & rugged construction packed in a small, managable sized unit. Honestly, I have no complaints & for the price and quality, I believe I made a great choice. Sounds better than most of the "Big Name" amps that I paid way too much $ for, because thats what i paid for, the "Name" & a fancy symbol on the housing!! But I will definitely recommend & purchase more BOSS products without a doubt !! Very pleased w/ BOSS !!

I had bought this Boss AR1500M amp to power one Infinity 1260 single coil sub (4ohm-300w RMS) thats in a sealed 1.25cf box as recomended by Infinity sub specs, its all in a Jeep Grand Cherokee Ltd with a nice factory Infinity system, and now has more than what it was missing on the low end from the factory, yes enough bass now to tick off the neighbors more than a few doors down, BUT even though I am very happy with my amp just like when I bought it I didnt really think Id get 700w RMS, even if Id got a 1 ohm sub not a 4ohm, but its only got one 30amp fuse built in it so? But as Id hoped its enough it powers my one 12" sub very well with the level at about 2/5 way up and I have the remote bass knob hardly even up about 15% and it sounds really good and balanced with the factory system with a lot of bass knob to go when needed. I would have gave it 5 stars if they had rated it has a 300w RMS and maybe could beleave that but not 700w, but for its price and how it works on my setup I really could not be happier. PS I used a 1/2 farad Cap too.. and Jeeps Infinity factory has 2 dash 2.75" mid/tweets - 2 front door bass 6x9" - 2 6&1/2" full range in back doors with a six channel Infinity amp about 25-30 RMS each. 9/21/12 SIX MONTH UPDATE: Amp still at about 30% gain hooked up on high speaker level inputs and all is great, I have never notice my amp getting hot though it is mounted to the side of my jeeps some what open cargo bay, checked after an hour of mid-to-loud volume bumping and was just slightly warm, well about as warm as it started here with our Florida summers. Not too long ago I also added a pair of Infinity 1" tweeters, one in each of the top back corners of the R/L cargo windows running on a older 2 x 25watt RMS amp I had, and now am so completly happy with my system, Ive got nice crisp highs, and lots of deep low's your basic factory systems just can't even put out, and everyone thats heard my still factory looking system lately are just like WOW and complement on how it has such full and rich balanced sound, and a few people now after seeing my simple add-ons want me to help them improve there factory systems!

UPDATE 11-10-16 After a week Still impressed, did a meter test and it was drawing 50 amps x 12v = 600 watts true rms @ full volume. So I Upgraded my wire and new better battery terminals and 100a fuse holder. Did another meter test and i got 100 amps x 12v = 1200 watts true rms... it blew the fuse holder. So I ordered a better fuse holder with 150a fuse.. will do another update when installed After reading almost all the reviews for this amp I decided to just go for it! Glad I did! I needed an amp the can push (1) 15" Orion HCCA dual 2ohm wired to 1.13ohms exactly. That being said, I got my amp today and installed it my self. I was really nervous at first thinking this amp would not be able to push the sub hard enough and thinking the amp might blow a fuse or something of that matter. Turn it on and I was Amazed by the amount of power it was feeding my Orion. Put it this way, i couldn't even go past 1/4 turn on my bass knob and the head unit past 1/3! The sub was flexing about 3 inches, my hair and beard was vibrating and my truck felt like it was gonna fall apart... I mean the doors were flexing so hard it looked like it wanted to open. And my windows looked like they wanted to chatter... amp settings were set all to minimum except the gain wich I was controlling with my knob. Honestly I'm afraid and excited and nervous to turn it half way thinking the air bags will set off or windows chattering... I drive a 2009 2 door Ranger , with stock head unit and I removed my passenger side seat to e able to fit my 15 inch sub.. it takes up the whole space.. I will update once I crank it up more and run it for a bout 45 min... Extremely happy with this amp and for the price you can't beat it! Hope this review helps.. if it can hammer my competition 15" Orion HCCA it definitely can hammer any other sub out there with ease.. might even blow your sub if your not careful ... As for the negative reviews, well you prob don't know what your doing, not hooked up at the correct ohms the amp requires will definitely blow your amp! Update-1 Just noticed it cracked my front windshield !!

First off, I'm pissed I can't give this a zero star. Because that's really what this deserves. I ordered one of these as a temporary replacement for a good amp I had while I was still looking around. This one had decent enough reviews, I thought it would be good as a temporary/backup. Order it, comes in the mail two days later, go to install and the first one refuses to turn on. Made sure all the wiring was correct, tore out paneling to make sure there wasn't any severed cords, checked under the hood, tore the head unit out. All good. So at that point I'm saying wtf. File for a replacement, replacement comes in. Go to hook it up and the replacement too refuses to turn on. This one however wouldn't stop blowing fuses. Every time I connected it to power the fuses blew, went through the two it came with, the two the previous amp came with and one that was plugged into the old amp that the first one replaced it with. Blew all 5 immediately. And on top of that it ruined my sub with all of it's electrical problems, so I'm now not even back to square 1, I'm set further back than that. Long story short, Boss is garbage. Everyone told me before I bought it, decided to find out for myself and it didn't pay off. Save yourself time and upon reading this, promptly continue your search, don't waste your time on this pile of garbage.

No it's not 1500W, but the beauty is with the right applications, very hard to beat in the price range. I have this amp as well as a Pioneer 760W amplifier. Off course they are very different, but comes down to two things for me: Features and price. Power is relative. I don't think I would ever find a system setup with less than 1000W total power that would blow my socks off. So getting back to it. This amp is rated at 1500W, impossible. The power draw is nowhere near that. Maybe 700W? No more like 300W rms if you are lucky. Still that is more than enough for me, and thanks to fellow reviewers it was still a great decision. The cheap choice! Boss, best in value overall. Want something better, stick with Pioneer or Rockford Fosgate or even Kicker. Will you find better for the price? Nope!!!

I have mixed feelings about this amp. I have bought 3 of these... I am only using 2 in my setup. I have them running 4 12" subs, each sub has a 3000 watt RMS, dual voice coil. Each sub is in series 2 ohms each coil, so at 4 ohms with the voice coils, then a second sub is in parallel giving it 2 ohms, those 2 subs go on 1 amp. These are competition subs, they hit HARD. I did cheap out on the amp sadly, but these amps do hit pretty good, I am not getting 3000 watts at least I don't think, most I am getting at 2 ohms with this amp is 1000-1500. I had to get a high output alternator with these because even going 75 mph my headlights were dimming really bad. Also needed 2 8 farad capacitors. So I was driving and one of the amps starts smoking, you could smell it... OK crap, didn't order it from Amazon, ordered it from VMInnovations on Amazon or whatever it is... Hard to get a clear reply even though it was less than 30 days, so I won't buy from them again. But this review is not about the seller its about the product. So I get another one from Amazon as I want all 4 subs blasting when I drive. Get it in 2 days, install it, and life continues... Then the other one did the same thing, had the same smell. Crap ok, so being a electronics guy... I opened the first amp, and found 4 100V 220MF capacitors that had puffed tops, ok thats the smell, the funny thing is I noticed the smell happening one at a time on the third amp. Then finally the other day it went out. So, these 4 caps either blew because they are cheap garbage or, just under rated on the voltage. Keep in mind when amplifying your voltage goes up significantly, and when it peaks it might go above 100V. Meh So I went on ebay found a 200V 220MF as they weren't on Amazon. replaced them in all 3 broken amps. They now work fine, power up, I just re-installed 2 of the amps tonight, and ran them for about 30 minutes, solid, as a matter a fact... They seem louder (I doubt maybe just lack of bass for last 2 weeks). I will keep posted on if they blow too. These caps are rated 100Volts more. These subs I have are power hungry, though I am not dropping them below 2 ohms on the amp. I am not even peaking the amp, I was still in the burn in, still loud but slowly increasing volume. So if you have these amps and have issues simply replace the 4 capacitors as shown in the attached picture. I circled the capacitors... Also keep in mind they are polarized, negative terminal on the capacitor is inside. Only time will tell, if this doesn't work I am just going to dish out the extra cash and get some competition amps. Make sure you do not change the value of 220. Also I recommend going above 100Volts, if you go below they will blow for sure. But you can match this value or go above, keep in mind too much above all 4 caps may not fit. The 200V ones I bought do fit, however slightly off. I only recommend this to someone that actually knows how to solder. So good amp yes, you probably won't get the 3000 Watts you are expecting to get at 1 ohm, but I can't say to be honest. The caps will blow if you are using good subs, they didn't blow before I changed the subs from the boss 3000Watt subs, which didn't hit that hard. Good luck ADDITION: So I connected my Fluke meter to measure the current this thing takes, I am getting about 60 amps peak. So not bad... however... 2 of the amps did just fail, one started smoking again other was getting hot and in protect, also blew the inline fuse. See the other picture attached. As you can see the burned components, and transisotrs are fried. Do not use this amp on competition subs. Subs that demand power, it will destroy the amp. Both amps are repairable to an extent of time and troubleshooting however i'd rather not waste time on them. This amp had most transistors blown, and the resistors next to them with the diodes. The other was doing something strange, I checked all components in line, and could only find one bad transistor which I replaced. Otherwise when I connect to my desk amp, its pilling more than 5 amps, goes into protect, but even then all the transistors heat up. Every component in line to them is fine. I know its a failing component that only gets messed up when it actually has current being inducted through it. Otherwise it will be fun to find it. This issue is also intermittent, sometimes it would not do it at all, the amp should pull about 1.5 amps when first powered on, however most the time it just goes into protect. So yea I might play with it a bit, but I am going to go with Orion or Power Acoustk, I learned, don't cheap out if you already spent the money on everything else. I have 3 of these which basically will end up in the trash, one of which is working, the other 2, well one of them I might be able to fix, but I don't want to waste my time. So just keep in mind, if you're using Boss speakers, or something that isn't sucking the life out of your amp, this amp hits pretty hard for what it is. But can't seem to handle the 4 ohm load they are connected too lol. As I said POWER HUNGRY SUBS. I had them connected to the Boss 3200w subs, they worked fine, nothing exploding, smoking, however didn't hit like the subs I have in now.