Power Steering Actuator Repair kit 3812269 3860883 3862210 386251 FSM055-1

This kit was an exact replacement for my 2005 Volvo Penta 5.7 GI-E steering actuator. Mine developed a leak at the shaft seal, like they all do. My piston shaft had a few small hairline cracks in the plastic "piston head", which they say you can reuse but I wasn't sure. For the price, I didn't want to take it all apart twice.For what its worth, here's how I rebuilt my actuator.Before you start you may want to check to see if there is enough working room to remove the actuator. Some boats will need to remove one or both exhaust risers/manifolds and/or exhaust elbows for access. Also check for galvanic corrosion of the 4 cotter pins that hold the mounting hardware in place. on the actuator there is one upper cotter pin and one lower cotter pin through the actuator mounting bolts. On the steering knuckle/linkage side there is one upper cotter pin and one lower cotter pin on the two "clevis pins" linking the steering knuckle and the outdrive. All of these pins should wiggle and move freely in the holes, if they are seized, the engine may need to be pulled to drill them out. It can be a little tricky getting the actuator out of the boat but I was lucky enough to have some room to work. Honestly for me, the hardest part of the whole job was bending the cotter pins straight so I could remove them. You'll also need to remove the steering cable nut and the two hydraulic hoses to the actuator.The kit didn't come with installation instructions or a diagram so pay attention to how things are put together. Wear safety glasses and have towels or shop rags handy because there will still be fluid inside and it may eject forcefully when removing the piston.Disassembly:To disassemble the actuator, You'll need a good vice with rubber or wood jaws to hold the shaft and get the steering knuckle off. You'll have to clamp the rod, DONT DAMAGE IT, and use a rubber mallet and wrench to remove the steering knuckle. Remove the end cap (blue aluminum) with two perfect sized drill bits. Insert the bits in two opposite hole on the end cap and use a box end wrench over one bit, levering against the second to rotate the end cap off. Remove and discard the old skinny O-ring off the end cap. Replace the new skinny O-ring. Drain any fluid. Either hold the actuator so that the two hose connectors are down or place a rag over them. Remove the piston and watch for more fluid to be ejected out the brass fittings. Take note of how the seals are installed. Remove the exterior wiper seal and inner shaft seal with a pick or small screwdriver.Reassembly:The large thick O-ring is for the piston shaft. Lube the piston O-ring, I used the fluid that was on the rags, and place it over the piston, into the groove. The skinny large O-ring is for the blue aluminum end cap. The brown shaft seal is tricky to get in but easy when you figure it out. This is where it helped to pay attention during disassembly. First figure out how the shaft seal goes into the actuator. The "ribbed side" faces in. 1. First orientate it correctly. 2. Pinch it in the middle, forming it into a number eight. 3. Without twisting it, bend the top part of the seal down to the bottom and placing it behind the bottom, forming a "double loop" 4. Place the smooth end of a long drill bit, hex key or small screwdriver through both "loops" keeping it from "springing apart" 5. Carefully insert it into the actuator to the ledge where it goes and carefully pull out whatever tool your using and let it spring apart into the grove. You may need to try it a few times but I was lucky and got it on the first try. You'll probably have to manipulate it around the grove, taking care not to damage it. Make sure its not twisted and is properly seated in the groove. Now install the wiper seal, "rib side" out. and make sure its seated. Carefully insert the new Piston into the actuator being careful not to damage the new seals with the threaded end. You'll have to tap the piston in because its a very snug fit and the piston wont move very easily like it did during removal. Extend the piston shaft most of the way. Clamp it up again, DONT DAMAGE the piston shaft. Add a small drop of medium thread locker such as Locktite blue to the threads and replace the steering knuckle, Give it a few taps with the wrench and mallet to make sure it securely on. It doesn't take a lot of hammering. Now fill the actuator reservoir with regular basic ATF not the new stuff. (That's what the kit manufacturer recommends.) Replace the blue aluminum end cap. I didn't use thread locker but it probably wouldn't hurt to use a drop or two.Now install the actuator in the boat following a reverse order of removal. Reconnect the hydraulic lines. Make sure your power steering reservoir is full and start the boat. The actuator will probably shake and vibrate somewhat violently. This is the air being forced out of the actuator. SLOWLY turn the steering fully to one side until it stops. SLOWLY turn to the full opposite side. REPEAT this for several cycles, maybe up to 10 times or so, until the air is removed. Recheck the power steering reservoir and check for leaks. Congratulations, Your done!!

Came as expected. Fixed out problem on our boat.