WaterloxTB 6044 Original Satin Finish, Quart, 32 Fluid Ounces

This oil-based sealer is actually waterproof and easy to apply. I used 3 coats on a 1 1/2" butcherblock sink surround in the kitchen. I sanded between coats with 400 grit sandpaper, and used a lint-free cloth with a small amount of paint thinner to clean off fine dust particles before applying the next coat. Dry time between coats is 24 hours. As a note:I had previously applied some food grade mineral oil to one section of the butcherblock, so I wasn't sure if the Waterlok would dry properly if applied over the mineral oil. After testing a piece of scrap, I found that the Waterlok dried very well even over the mineral oil. My only negative comment about the satin finish Waterlok is that it is a bit more yellow than I prefer, but still a great finish at a sink area. PS: I found the smell very mild!

I've been using Waterlox for over 10 years... I will simply use nothing else to finish my projects.

My husband and I recently renovated our main bathroom and ordered a custom, walnut vanity. I was so worried about the beautiful wood being exposed to frequent humidity and water. I did a lot of research before purchasing this product. This stuff is worth every penny…..it was easy to apply and had just the right sheen for the look we wanted. The odor is very pungent so be sure to use it in a ventilated place or keep a window open and have a fan handy. I put on 4 coats and lightly sanded in between the first 2 coats. Well worth the investment.

I have a solid wood counter that developed a few small mold spots and stains on the top of it where water had not been wiped up. I needed a better, more durable and waterproof finish for it. After a thorough sanding and cleaning I started by applying one coat of Waterlox. I left it for 24 hours to soak into the wood and then applied the next coat. Once that coat had dried I lightly sanded with a high grit paper, cleaned it thoroughly and applied another coat. After this coat dried it looked great. A beautiful satin finish. Water beads up on it and does not soak in. It is very easy to clean.The smell was not as bad as I had been led to believe it would be. When I was applying it, I opened all the windows and put a fan in the closest one, blowing out. This stopped the smell traveling throughout our house. A couple of days after the last coat, the smell was completely gone.I hardly used any of the can at all. The counter I used it on was about 8 feet in length. I could probably do another 50 of them with the same can.

I scoured the internet looking for the best product for sealing countertop-grade butcher block for bathroom sink vanities (three in total). Based on reviews, videos, pictures, etc., I decided on Waterlox, even above the brands at the local home improvement store. Interesting story...For the last several months, I've had a contractor helping out with a number of renovations, and he was very concerned about my interest in using a wood top in a bathroom. Some like it, some don't. But, he repeatedly told me that I would have major wood rot problems, and that he didn't think using wood would work. I slowly began to realize that doing this is growing in popularity, and more and more products are becoming available. Ultimately, I picked up a couple of 8' countertop-grade butcher block slabs and headed home. We cut them, and I proceeded with using what Waterlox recommended - starting with the sealer/finish (semi-gloss). I used 2-3 coats, depending on the board. Then, I moved to the satin finish (also purchased here on Amazon.com), applied an additional coat and followed that with a very light sanding to remove the small bumps and rough areas. Lastly, I added the final coat. Beautiful. Water beads, as expected, and I feel that keeping the vanity clean and as free of water as possible would mean a long-lasting life. Oh, note that I also sanded the countertop before ever applying the product, and wiped it down/cleaned it with mineral spirits - very important, don't forget to do that!Hope you like the pictures. We love the new bathrooms!Oh, and we loved it so much, that I also built a "country/rustic" kitchen island with the same butcher block top; and with the same series of Waterlox applications.

So we did our walnut counter tops a year ago and they came out beautiful. Three coats of the 'regular' waterlox and then 2 coats of the Satin. A year has passed and it was time to do a quick reseal. Sanded with 400 grit sand paper and applied the finish with a new china bristle brush. Streaks could be seen everywhere. Used 0000 steel wool and recoated - bubbles everywhere - felt like sand paper. Went back and watched all the videos and read all the information online I could find. Waited a week and resanded. Again bubbles. Again went back to the website and read everything. Totally discouraged since I had done this with no issues on the original installation. So here is what I finally did - sanded the countertop again, wiped with cloth and then with tack cloth, heated my home to over 80 degrees and watched the humidity to make sure it was okay (we had had rain so the air was moist), bought new paint and a new brush (washed the brush the day before to make sure it was clean), did all the safety and prep work, painted it on, did not overwork it, walked away for 24 hours. First coat was good but because of all the sanding we had some spots that the paint did not take to well, again 0000 steel wool and the same process as the night before. Final look it good - not as good as the finished product the year before but liveable. Lesson is do it in the summer when the summer temps are high enough to help with the processing. Don't overwork the paint. Let the 'self leveling' do it's job and be calm.

I applied this with a brush to a 1910s office chair I had rescued that needed a full refinish. Product was easy to use and there were no problems. Just becareful not to let there be any unsmoothed out drops on the bottom edges as they will not want to harden.