CY USB Type C USB-C Male OTG Host Type 5.1k Resistor Adapter with Black Housing Cover DIY 24pin

This worked great for my use case, which was replacing the USB-A end of my Garmin Zumo XT mount cable with USB-C. The 5.1k resistor is necessary to signal to the USB-PD (power delivery) charger that this is a "dumb" USB device and to only provide 5 volts. If that resistor isn't there, the charger will not provide any power.Of course, if you're replacing a USB-C plug on a cable you intend to use with an actual USB-C device, you'll want to use the version without the resistor, so that the charger and device negotiate the proper voltage/current for that device using the USB-PD standard.

They work, the housing isn't held together so I have to add a bit of glue. Keep in mind these will not work for charging.

As far as the connector and electronics go it works. Had to figure out the correct order for the wires. My kid broke her usbc gaming mouse connector and I chose this to replace it. The wires were white, yellow, green, blue. Different than what I found online so I took apart the old connector to get that correct order. The plastic housing for this is complete crap. It doesn’t lock together and didn’t stay in place so the plug got pushed in and didn’t go into the computer. I ended up trying super glue but it didn’t stick to the plug. So I used instamorph moldable plastic to create a housing. Works great.

Bought these a long time ago. Finally got around to use one on a long 6 foot cloth braided cable I really liked, that had the the C end damaged. Had to expand the little rear rubber boot with a reamer and a hot gun so that it would fit over the cloth sleeving, and also enlarge the hole where the cable and the boot passed through. As some suggested on previous reviews I used a few drops of thin super glue to adhere the circuit board sleeve to the outer casing. I did screw up by shorting the ground with the data + because the insulation on the wires for the cable I used melted very easily, but since this cable is only used to charge non-smart devices it'll be fine.

I bought these connectors because in the picture they show 4 "big" soldering pads with D-,D+, etc., but the actual connectors have 6 smaller pads (Ground and VCC are on the opposite side). I'm using these connectors for USB 2.0 keyboards, so the other pins are unnecessary. Anyway, I'm taking 3 stars because the picture is not showing the right product.Soldering in such a small area is stressful, which is why I bought these in the first place. But meh. I wouldn't recommend these unless you're confident and good at "microsoldering". ( not exactly microsoldering but still)Also, the soldering area is fragile, I tried to adjust the wires before sealing them in the plastic case and a contact pad just came off the PCB...Honestly what a waste of time.To be fair they do work. But you have to be extra careful. (this is why they get 2 stars)

There are no pin labels on the board so without a pinout diagram, it's hard to tell which pin is which. I attached two diagrams that were found using an Internet search for the part number, UC-050-BK. I'm hesitant to try these because the diagrams found were not from the manufacturer. It might be better to hack an old cable than use these (or even buy a new cable and hack that, if you can trust the wire colors). It didn't escape me that others have posted pictures of items with labeled pins -- photos of the ones I received are also attached (no labels at all).

If you need to repair a USB Type-C connector, this will do the job just fine. The solder points are not marked, so you will need to look up a pinout online (it isn't hard to find). The outer part of the housing slips over and doesn't lock into place, so I use a drop of super glue to finish the job. Overall, its easy to use and gets the job done. Can't ask for much more than that.

Everything came together well. Basic steps in photos:1. Put the body on the wire first. Then a flexible tail is put on the wire. Next, solder the wires to the connector. Check functionality.2. The inner case is pushed onto the metal part of the connector and beyond. The voids are filled with hot glue. Hint - apply hot melt adhesive in a thick layer around the green board and then push the inner case. Excess hot soft glue will be cut off by the inner case during the push-in.3. Slightly slide the inner case into the outer shell and apply a couple of drops of superglue on both sides and then push it all the way. A paper towel will come in handy to remove the extruded superglue.4. Done.5. In fact, the short cable is made for charging Garmin from a Samsung phone while traveling (Samsung, at least the S series performs the function of a power bank), but in this configuration, it is difficult to photograph if there is no mirror.