FluvalPeat Granules, 500 Gram/17.6 Ounce

Some of the leading people making terrariums commercially have started to incoporate aquatic peat, so I thought I would add it to my supplies and try it out. While I cannot attest to how long it functions for filtration, nutrition, or even before breaking down. But, I can at least comment on it's texture and base function as an aggregate. It should be noted, that this is a material designed to be used in aquarium filtration systems.When you pick up a single granual and pinch it very hard, most pieces will not crumble in the way perlite would. I would compare this product's texture to something closer to akadama or pumice, though I honestly hope it is more durable, as many people do not realize that akadama and pumice will break down over only a fairly short amount of time. My favorite aggregates are calcined clay or lava rock. The granuals here are comparable in size to the smaller grain calcined clay or standard perlite, though notably much more rounded and I expect that to contribute to helping them not break down just in terms of being a functional aggregate in a drainage system. In terms of providing filtration or mineral nutrients, I expect these to help filter the standing water until they start to break down physically. There is some talk that horticultural charcoal pulling nutrients out of the soil and if those nutrients are released once the hydrophobic bits finally take in water and break down. I do not know the scene enough to clarify those aspects.But, I expect this material to benefit my terrariums long enough that when it wears off maybe my terrariumns can be balanced enough on their own by then. Regardless, this is a very affordable product with a consistent scale that is practical when layering in conjunction with calcined clay, brown dirt, or red lava rock, but also when mixing with charcoal and black lava rock for a robust drainage system that filters in multiple ways.I plan to keeep this on hand unless I see signs of trouble. So far so good. Try it! It's cheap enough.

This is cleaner and easier to work with than garden peat moss. I also feel it is safer as it is pure and meant for the aquarium. The box may seem small, but you don't need much and last a long time. I put some in a knee high pantyhose tied a knot and put it in the tank. By doing it this way all the pieces stay inside of the pantyhose and doesn't float around the tank. At first it floats, but I pushed it behind the filter stem under the water. In a couple of days the peat moss is wet enough to sink. I noticed the water becomes very soft, but it hasn't lowed the PH. The water does get a dirty, tea stained look and if you are directly above the tank you can smell a little bit of the dirt, but all the fish seem to love it. Fish like the neon tetras that would normally hide behind my plants and rock now come out to the front of the tank.

I was having a major PH issue and needed to make the water a little more acidic. My tank really wasn't big enough for a piece of driftwood so this was the next best option.I put some in a bowl and rinsed it well and put it in a bag in my HOB filter. It has not lowered the PH all the way to a neutral 7 but that is because I have not added enough. It got it from 7.8 down to 7.2 or so. Everything is stable now. The fish are happy and the algae is nowhere the issue it was. I can add more later if needed but don't want to risk any kind of crash.Keep in mind I didn't use a whole lot and I always run carbon but there were no tannins at all that discolored the water. It is crystal clear and now has a safer PH. I put it in a zip lock bag and have plenty for any need in the future.

I was having troubles getting my exceptionally hard water to neutralize with other products such as the water softener pillow, and PH Down. The water was so hard, the PH Down would be completely ineffective. The water softener pillow was working too slowly for the severity of my hard water, even after multiple recharges, and my fish were showing signs of stress. I added about 100 grams of Fluval Peat to my 75 gallon aquarium filter in a media bag, and within 24 hours I noticed my fish were playing and more active again. The GH, KH, and PH are all dropping at a rate of about 1 unit per day, which is a safe level for most fish to adjust to. I would not recommend using the whole 500 grams of the product at one time, as the product packaging recommends for a tank my size. I used about 1/5th that with exceptional results. The soft yellow tint this product left in the water seemed to make the fish very happy, and even dampened the very bright lighting that came with my new tank. (I was worried the bright led light would stress the fish, but now it is perfect.)I very strongly recommend this product for fish tanks with exceptionally high water hardness.

My tap water and tank water is around 8.0 to 8.1 pH. I wanted to lower the pH because I think the high pH harms my otocinclus. My success rate for otos is only 5 survivors out of 13 purchased. And recently I think the pH killed off a bunch of amano shrimp. I use a Oase thermofilter with white and green cut to fit filter pads purchased on eBay. The green and white layers can be separated, , I make a pocket in the filter pad by inserting my finger. Then I use a funnel to pour some peat pellets in. This avoids using a mesh bag. The pH dropped to 7.4 and has stayed at 7.4 despite regular water changes. The color of water has not changed, and hopefully my otos will survive.

My water is a bit hard. Maybe too hard... dGH is around 12 and dKH is at 5-6, pH: 7.8I put a bag (about one cup) of these granules in a marineland 100 biowheel filter and I have not seen any changes in pH. This stuff only yellows my water and browns my plants. Its not as bad as it sounds. the yellow water is not harmful to the fish and the brown stuff on the leaves is just small accumulated particles of peat. Maybe I need more peat? Or what am I doing wrong?I also run the marineland filter with a Fluval C2 which only has two small bags of API's ammo-carb.