3 Pin Plug In Appliance Module AM466

I've been using these addressable controllers for ???? 50 years+? The best way there is to turn the Christmas lights on and off. The tree, outside lights, village, etc. It takes about 6 of these to light up everything we put out. I thought I had a failed one. Turns out it was ok. But thanks to this company I have a new spare.

The X10 has been a good product that I have used for many years. This order arrived in "record time" and they will shortly be put to use.

If you are having issues with the standard light module. (Flickering LED bulbs) change to a 466 module it will solve the issues.

Works great. I bought a set many years ago from radio shack and this is 100% compatible. I have the alarm clock timer which will control & dim lighting modules, and will turn appliance modules on & off, manually or by programmable timer. I mostly use these for Christmas decorations now. My old module still works, I just needed to add one for a second location. Since I wanted all my decorations to go on/off at the same time this was the perfect solution. A few dollars more than I wanted to pay compared to the price I paid 25 years ago, but if this one lasts as long as the other one it will be money well spent. Similar modules connect thru wifi so monitoring and programming options are nearly limitless. However, I specifically did not want a wifi or 'smart' version. I have used these devices off and on for more than 25 years. I don't know if I'm just lucky or if I have lived in small houses my whole life, but I have never had any issues with modules not working correctly. A button on the module for manual switching would be nice but is not included. You can manually turn on the module. With the module plugged in, unplug your device from the module and immediately plug it back in and the module should power up. If you experience undesired operation, remember this: typical residential electrical service in the US has two 110 volt lines which provide 220 volt devices like stove/oven, clothes dryer, hot water heater, central heat/air their power. Wall outlets can be supplied by either 110 volt line. If you plug the appliance module into an outlet and it fails to operate as expected your controller may be plugged into an outlet supplied by the opposite 110 volt line. To remedy that you could purchase a device to repeat the control signal to the other line, or simply move the module and controller to the same 110 volt line. An electrician could explain this better and assist. Or you could look at your beaker panel (or fuse box for folks with a little mileage). Most panels have two columns. Each is supplied by one of the 110 volt lines. If your module is supplied by an outlet on one column (left for example), and the controller is supplied by the other (right), you may experience undesired or 'spotty' operation. The easiest fix is to plug both the controller and module into outlets supplied by circuits in the same column in the panel. My advice is to make sure you have the appropriate module for the intended purpose and follow the instructions when setting them up. You should get many years of use that way.

The X10 system has been around for many years, and generally works well, assuming the controller and module(s) are both on the same phase, i.e. power leg. If they aren't, as was the case for me, this can lead to a major headache in actually getting the system to work as planned. Swapping panel board circuit breaker locations, as suggested in the instructions, is something I really didn't want to do. I think most people fail to realize this major drawback to the system.

I have three transformers boxes for my low voltage lighting. Each box has an outlet that I plug an appliance module into, and the cord of the transformer goes into the appliance module. I set the lights to go on and off at a certain time using the X-10 in-home controller plugged into an outlet in my kitchen. I usually program a one minute time lag between each transformer turning on and off to avoid overlap issues.Unfortunately, I've had to replace the modules 17 time over the past 10 years--that's almost $200. What usually happens is that the modules fail to turn the lights off, which wastes electricity. The metal transformer box completely protects the modules from water, so it's not that.If I could find another way to program/control my outdoor lights, I'd do it.

Great device, works well with compact fluorescent lights (CFL). I already have a lot of X10 equipment from the days of when Radio Shack was selling this equipment. Since CFL and LEDs are what people will evetually be buying going forward, I wanted to start using my old X10 equipment with CFL and LED bulbs. I rudley found out that the old X10 appliance modules do not work with CFL or LED bulbs. After digging around the internet for more information I found out that the new appliance modules work with CFL but NOT LED bulbs. At least I can use CFLs with this device and be okay but I wish you could also use this device with LED bulbs. I tried using this device on a new small candle LED bulb I purchased from Home Depot, about a month ago, for a tiny table lamp and it does not completely shut the power to it off even when the appliance module is off. I had a similar problem on the older X10 appliance modules with both CFL and LED bulbs. Also, like all X10 equipment you should not expect it to work relably considering several interference factors from modern appliances already plugged into the power grid of your home that can cause the signal to be cancelled out or lost. I have learned over the years to only rely on X10 for devices on the same circuit using both the transmitter and the receiver. X10 does not relably jump from one circuit to the next without a good chance of signal loss depending on what other appliances you are running in your house at the time of signal transmission.

Worked pretty good as long as they are on the same circuit.