LINEAR GoControl, WS15Z-1, Zwave Wall Mount Switch,White,Small

I wish I had a summary like this when I started with z-wave.Fact 1: To pair with the Veralite controller, firmware v7 you need to "double tap" the switch then it pairs right away.Fact 2: If you don't have a neutral wire in the box where you want to install this, either get one installed or shop other vendors.Linear switches:WD500z - Light switch with optional dimmer. This is a "regular" light switch with dimmer and can work in 3-way setup.WS15z - Wall switch WITHOUT dimmer. This is a "regular" light switch WITHOUT dimmer and can work in 3-way setup.WT00z - Wall switch with optional dimmer. This is NOT a "regular" light switch. It looks like one but does not switch the load on/off. When you press the switch up/down, it sends a z-wave signal to its partner switch (either of above) and tells that switch to toggle/dim. It does NOT send a z-wave signal to the control box, it goes directly to its partner.Scenario 1: You want to switch but never dim. Ex: Yard spotlights, garage lights etc. Get a WS15z. You must have a neutral wire in the electrical box where you install this switch.Scenario 2: You want to switch and dim with only 1 switch. Ex: Bedroom lite, front porch lite etc. Get a WD500z. You must have a neutral wire in the electrical box where you install this switch. There are z-wave switches by GE that do not require a neutral, but I believe these don't dim LED's that well at all. NOTE: If you desire to dim LED's, you really need at least 40watts. My kitchen fan lites totaled 48 watts and this switch was not happy. The lites got bright & dimmed all by themselves. I had to convert them back to incandescent to make the dimming work.Scenario 3: You want to switch and dim, with 2 switches. Ex: Hallway lights with switch at top and bottom of stairs. Get a WD500z and a WT00z. Put the WT00z anyplace in the house; it does not need to be wired or anywhere close to the lights it will control. The box where you install this switch must have a neutral wire. Put the WD500z switch in the box where it can be connected to the load. It also requires a neutral wire.Scenario 4: You want to switch, but NOT dim, with 2 switches. Ex: Yard spotlights. Same as Scenario #3 but get a WS15z and a WT00z.Scenario 5: You want to control any switch with a remote. Get a "Aeon Labs MiniMote".Scenario 6: You want to control any switch with your phone. Most controllers have this ability.

For some strange reason relay (on-off) based Z-wave switches have been absurdly expensive, more so than the dimmers. To add insult to injury, they seem to fail more often, too. This one was much less expensive than usual so I decided to give it a shot.It looks like pretty much all of the other generic Z-wave switches (such as the GE/Act/Evolve ones). That's a good thing, since it's replacing a failing ACT switch and is next to two other older-model GE z-wave dimmer switches.It is made out of the nicer, smooth-sheen plastic (comparable to Leviton's decora wall switches). Some Z-wave switches have a rougher, cheaper-feeling plastic, and I was happy to see the nicer type here. It also includes a decora single wall plate.The LED is green. This is also a plus since my old switches also have green LEDs. It defaults to night light mode (illuminated when off) but can be changed by a setting. The switch can also be configured to be inverted (LED on top, on is up). And that's the extent of its configurability. It also supports NWI so if you have a Vera 2+ you don't need to go through the battery pack ordeal to include it on the network.Just like my old ACT switch, a bundle of wires come directly off the back that you wire-nut to your home's wiring. I generally prefer this to the screw-down type (like modern GEs). The original dumb switches don't use neutrals, so I'm usually having to cut up pieces of romex to make white jumpers to be able to install those kinds.Unlike most other Z-wave switches this one lacks the option to have a remote slave wire, so it cannot be used in a 3,4,5 way configuration. In my case this is a benefit, that extra yellow wire is an unwelcome liability that has to be capped off in a cramped junction box when it's not necessary.Bottom line - No frills but it seems to work quite well so far. Hopefully it'll last a few years.

There are 2 Linear GoControl switches with almost the same part number, this switch, this WS15Z-1 and the newer WS15Z5-1 (Z5-1 instead of Z-1). The older switch is Z-Wave compatible, the newer is Z-Wave Plus compatible. The Z-Wave Plus means it has many features that you may or may not need (I did).The feature I needed is called Association, this allows a Z-Wave switch to control another switch or receptacle directly without needing the Z-Wave hub's help (faster). I wanted 2 lights in the room to be controlled by the same wall switch, one light was plugged into the receptacle controlled by the wall switch. The other light was plugged into a standard receptacle on the other side of the room. I replaced the standard receptacle with a GE / Jasco Z-Wave receptacle and used my Z-Wave hub to associate the switch to the receptacle, didn't work since it turns out that this Linear GoControl WS15Z-1 switch doesn't support Association (actually it does, that is the undocumented feature I found).If you hit the top of the switch's paddle twice quickly it will turn the receptacle on, if you hit the bottom of the switch's paddle twice quickly it will turn the receptacle off, just what I wanted. A little bit of a pain, however the newer WS15Z5-1 is $5 more with no Prime shipping.

Easy to install but difficult to set up with a hub. I am using three and they took several attempts to add to my smart system. The screws are so long, is that really necessary? Once set up, they work fine.

Works great with SmartThings hub (1.0). However, this is a big unit and if you don't have a lot of space (e.g. Old house) or there are lots of wires in the junction box, this is going to be a really tight squeeze. Also, be sure you have the required wires (neutral, hot, ground). You can't just use it like a simple switch to connect a single wire (as it needs constant power to operate).These switches seem expensive right now (compared to a manual switch), but hopefully the price will come down over time as these become more commonplace.Once installed, I have never had to think about it again. It just works.

Works great with the Wink hub. You need to click the hub gear, scroll to the Z-wave option to add the switch. One problem : the switch has a mount larger than the other 30 mm wide switces in the bank of 3. This interferes with one wide switch but I can replace it with a thinner standard switch and a modified plate.

Function has expected, no issues, it was quite easy to sink the same with the Vera Plus Controller

Great switch which will work with my VIvint Security system however I thought it was a 3 way switch which it is not. No problem my fault I will use it on single switch line. Ordered the right kit and awaiting delivery for 3 way. Item came on time and as described with easy to follow instructions and diagram