Red Lizard Q1 V6 Hotend, Upgrade All Metal Hot End Bi-Metal Heat Break, Plated Copper Heat Block+Nozzle for Ender 3 Pro V2 Ender 5 Pro 3D Printer

This was used to upgrade a voxelab s2 to be able to take standard nozzles. Youtube has a tutorial and you need to print some parts first but once its in then it works great. I havent had a clog or flow problems since swapping to it. It can be mounted 2 different ways. Good hotend for the price

The top mounting holes line up, but there are tree problems to be overcome:1. The center of the feed hole is offset to the front. I used a rotary file in a drill to expand the hole. You Could just screw in the top Bowden fitting, but it would not seat flush with the top of the heat sink. I don't recommend it.I found some tiny (3mm?) screws in my drawer of PC hardware. I believe they were used to mount hard drives.The screws near the flange actually sit on the rim of the Bowden fitting.2. As previously noted, the offset position of the Bowden tube interferes with the top X rail. I plan to fix this by putting in a shim between the head mounting tab and the carriage.Also: The threads on the Bowden fitting are not compatible with the garden variety Creality clones you can buy by the bag.3. The new head was longer, so the zero needed to be shifted down. I glued a scrap of PC Bd material to the top of the Z carriage below the zero switch. I did not want to compromise the range of the zero adjustment screws.The existing heater cartridge (24V 50W) and thermistor fit in the holes provided.The heat break in the new head with its cooling fins is superior to the old one which was a piece of steel tube with no fins in an aluminum heat sink. The new head seems to get up to temp and stabilize more quickly. The silicone heat sock on the new head helps in this regard. The old head had none.I did an 6+ hours print in PLA with no issues.Bottom Line: Performance is better but several mods are required.

Super easy mod!

This hotend truly does not fit almost any of the printers advertised. I bought this for a Sapphire Plus. While it technically fits in the stock hotend carriage, it causes a severe angle from the bowden into the hotend. this angle causes a lot of friction impeding retraction/smooth filament movement.this still gets 4 stars because the hotend itself is actually pretty darn nice. the break is large, the throat is finned copper, and the block is too heavy to be aluminum (guessing copper with plating?)it might be a bit expensive considering the number of all metal alternatives with smaller price tags and wider compatibility.

I bought this hotend as an upgrade to the hotend on my Ender 3 pro. After removing the factory hotend, I found that the Haldis hotend itself was too big to work with the original fan/cooling fixture and BLTouch mount on the machine. This, of course was not noted BEFORE I bought it. If you have alternate mounts, then this might work. My extruder motor was previously moved to the extruder mount as an upgrade. THis hotend is thicker than the original so it does not work with this upgrade either. It also has no instructions (not that you really need them if you are mechanically inclined). Given the price and the long list of mods that this device essentially interferes with, look elsewhere for a more direct replacement.

I had to grind away part of my fan shroud to get it to fit over this hot end. But it was well worth it. Print quality is great especially for the money.

I purchased this instead of the Mico Swiss which I have since switched to. The build quality seemed good visually looked cool ( which is important). With some careful planning and installation I managed to get the stock housing over this hot end though slightly twisted. I had planned to print off some different hot end parts anyways and figured I would just account for the extra size since it would work great right... I assumed wrong. It did not work great I printed two small prints 3 hour runs with it. Both times PETG leaked out the top of the heat block and made a really painful mess to clean up. I had tightened the break into the block (threaded conenction) and then tightened the nozzle both cold frst and then after heating up the hot end snugged again to make sure tight fit still didn't help. It seems like the heat breakthreaded connection vs the socket with tightening screw aren't a tight fit into the block so at 240 the filament just pushes up and oozes out threw the threads. Until they fixed the issue with the leaking and make it clear this isn't a direct fit for stock Ender 3 Pro I have to give it a 1 star. Sorry but this could cause real issues to a persons printer and or safety.

Couldn’t install. Way too thick to fit without severely bending the Bowden tube from a direct drive setup.