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🚀 Fix it fast, fix it right with J-B Weld!
The J-B Weld 2120 Radiator Repair Kit is a comprehensive solution for making professional-grade repairs on radiators and plastic tanks. It includes epoxy putty, fiberglass cloth, sandpaper, and an applicator, allowing users to fix leaks without removing the tank or radiator. With a proven track record of over 40 years, this kit is trusted by professionals and DIYers for its versatility and strength.
Manufacturer | JBWeld |
Brand | J-B Weld |
Model | J-B Weld 2120 Radiator and Plastic Repair Kit |
Item Weight | 1.76 ounces |
Product Dimensions | 2 x 4 x 8 inches |
Item model number | 2120 |
Is Discontinued By Manufacturer | No |
Manufacturer Part Number | 2120 |
L**E
Take your time.
I hit a turkey, and it cracked the top of my radiator!!!I cant notice the crack by eye, nor can I feel it with a fingernail.. But it does lose and spurts out coolant..I' on a fixed income and can't afford a new radiator right now..We are going on a trip next week, so I have my fingers crossed!!Fist off, I went through the process, laid down the fiberglass cloth and it looks nice!! And not one leak or spot of dampness!!First, carefully cut the 2 bags apart from each other, but do not cut them open!!!Sand sand sand, do a nice job... Clean it and the surrounding area really good... Alcohol, etc.. I used windex.. Cleaned it, dried if..Then cut and shape your fiberglass cloth to size..You want plenty of overlap over the crack or hole..This is getting things ready..Knead the black bag, unopened.. Mine was quite hard, but loosened up after kneading..Cut the corners of each bag, about a quarter inch..Here's the trick!!! Squeeze out just enough to do the job!! And do not squeeze them out on top of each other or let the black pile touch the clear pile...Once they touch, it starts the curing process..They call for 50-50 of each, black and clear..I used less clear in the mix.. The clear makes it harden faster.. Know where you're gonna put it before all this and get the right tool to mix and the right tool to spread or apply it.I used an old ins card to smooth and spread and a popsicle stick, to mix the two, together!!Mix the amount you need, and apply, spread it..Put it in the cracks or holes and spread it fairly smooth..While still wet and tacky, put the cloth on and quickly press the cloth into the mixture.. Smooth it out with whatever tool your using.Now, the cloth and jb weld should be pretty tacky..Mix up the rest of the batch, in equal parts and spread it on top of the cloth, and be sure to overlap the cloth and area... Keep working on it neatly till its too stiff to work with.. Less than a min..I let my repair sit over night, with the radiator cap off and the coolant, below the repair area..Checked today, and it was hard as a rock..Topped off the coolant, ran the car in idle, dry as a bone.. Then took it for a ride!!! Perfect so far...Moral of the story, watch out for turkeys!!Plan your repair.. Get your mixer, spreaders, cloth cut to size etc... And prepping of the surface..JB weld always performs the best, but its up to you, to take your time prepping, follow directions, and have everything you need ready, BEFORE you cut those bags open... The brush that comes with the kit, use it with your last coat... To spread and smooth.. If you use it first it will be junk in 30 seconds.. I will let everyone know how it all holds up.. New post and update.. It has been about 2 weeks now.. No leaks.. NoneAnd this was including a 600 mile + trip... It included, high speed, 80+ to hills to traffic jams...! Not a leak or drop.. In the amount of time since using JB, I probably have put about 1000 on, and it works perfectly...Aug.12, 2023. Update.. Many more miles added and no leak, not a drop!!
M**K
It worked for me!
It worked for me. I had a 3 inch long crack in the black plastic top tank of my radiator on my 2006 Subaru Impreza. It was spewing out coolant after I would drive and creating smoke coming from under the hood I think from the coolant hitting other hot engine components and burning. First I let the car sit overnight to make sure it was completely cooled down and there was no pressure in the system. Then I cleaned the area with a wet paper towel and dried it with a dry paper towel. Then I hand sanded it with a small piece of 100 grit sandpaper until the surface looked rough. Then I blew off the dust and cleaned it again with paper towels and made sure it was dry. Then I cut my fiberglass mesh down to size. I only used about 2/3 of the length and 2/3 of the width of the fiberglass mesh. Then I got a piece of corrugated cardboard about 6 inches by 6 inches. Then I put on rubber gloves and cut the corners off both of the epoxy pouches and dispensed approximately half of the black epoxy and half of the white epoxy into two separate blobs on the cardboard. Then I mixed it very quickly with the popsicle stick until it was a uniform gray color and then quickly applied a layer to the crack and all around it a little bigger than the fiberglass piece. Then I applied the fiberglass mesh lightly pushing it into the epoxy. Then I put the final layer of epoxy on quickly covering the fiberglass mesh completely. I still have half of the epoxy left unused in the bags. I checked it after about 5 minutes and it had set and was hard. After 4 hours it was still tacky but by about 6 hours it didn’t seem tacky anymore. Just to be safe I waited until the next day to drive the car. The epoxy seems as hard as the plastic radiator. So far no leaks at all everything is nice and dry all around there. I have been driving the car around daily like normal. Initially I wasn’t sure if this would work but I was happily surprised that it did. Will try to update this if it ends up leaking in the future. Definitely was worth it for me because the car is getting old and has other problems so I didn’t want to put too much money into it. Hope it works well for you too.
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