SUPERNIGHT 120W Voltage Regulator Buck Converter 48V Step-Down to 12V 10A Waterproof Voltage Reducer for Golf Cart Power Module LED Strip Light

Product lasted 16 months and worked fine. I did contact the company and they offered to send out a replacement so I will add a star to the review.

Works as expected. We had a hacker put in 12V head lighting on the cart by sniping into ONE of the 4 12V batteries. That didn't work out too well for the long run. You can do that but it is not proper and issues with uneven charging of the battery bank and the one battery used will eventually not take a full charge. We also bought 8 watts of new LED lighting (4 watts per side) this is very sufficient as the cart is always back away from the road on wooded cart paths. So we have plenty of extra 12V power we can use for other things (radio, additional lighting, cell phone charging etc.) if we wish. 120W will not power a road legal incandescent lighting array. For those you will need to bump it up to a few hundreds watts at least. However for carts that run on cart paths off road this thing is more then sufficient. I placed a 10A resettable thermal overload on the 12V output side and a 3A in line fuse on the 48V input side to protect the wiring and used 14 ga wire. I also soldered the wiring into the non insulated crimp connectors and wrapped them with electrical tape. Shrink tubing would have been better. Should last forever. UPDATE; The idle current on these things is about 32 watts with the lights off. That is enough to sink a full charge in 5 days at best even with our 7.2KW battery bank. These should be wired in with the on/off switch on the 48V to knock down the regulator too. By the math that's about 10% of our full bank charge a day, but when you take into account the various synergies at work with these lead acid batteries in reality it is closer to 20% over a 24 hour period as these batteries are really only good for 50% discharge of their total rated capacity. If you charge at the end of every day this is not a problem. But if put few miles a day down and do not charge but every now and then this becomes a real issue. I thought the idle current would be 1-2 watts, not 32. So the solution when the switch is mounted on the dash and the regulator placed under the seat at the batteries is to run a 4 conductor lead and pass 48V through the switch and back to the regulator and the 12V conductors from the regulator to the lights and whatever. I used 4 conductor lead because I was also going to put in a batter charge indicator later. So this to me is no big deal. I will just include the modifications when I mount the charge meter.

I stumbled across this item while looking for something else and I just had to get it if for no other immediate reason than to experiment with it. I've known about buck-boost circuits from schematics and theory, but I never knew that they existed as cheap modules that could handle substantial power. With this module, you can take a widely varying DC input from 8v to 40v and get a steady 13.8v DC output, up to 10 amps, as long as you have sufficient input power available. You can connect automotive phone quick chargers or other 12v devices to solar panels without using a battery, or run a DC to AC inverter the same way. It may not be the most practical way to get AC power from solar, since any passing shadow could cause the power to drop below what the load needs, but I'd rather have this than an off-grid system with a dead battery any sunny day.

I got the 12V:24V boost converter. The description says 12V/10A in and 24V/10A out. I guess they got the efficiency spec wrong at 96%. Seems more like 200%.I'm gunna buy a million of these and start my own power station!

I'm an over the road trucker, and I have a 6-24 volt computer attached to my TV. The problem is that the power drops when I start the truck, crashing the computer. So I used one of these to power the computer, floating it across a 12V 7Ah sealed lead acid battery (converter -> battery -> computer) as an uninterruptible power supply. The battery is designed to be float charged at 13.8V, so it remains fully charged.All in all, a simple solution to my problem that has worked better than anything else I've tried.

Easy to use. Two wires input, two wires output.I got the one that has 8-40v input, 13.8v 10A output.I'm using DeWalt 20volt battery packs for the input.I'm using this to power car electronics such as phone chargers.I'm charging my phone right now and the brick runs cold. We'll see what happens when I load up the output.

Used to boost 12-volt lead-acid battery to charge Bluetti EB70 inverter in reasonable time (est. 4-5 hours @ 180Watts). Direct connection of battery to inverter would take days (@ 20-25 W.), not 8 hours as Bluetti suggests. This device performed as hoped with no problems (at least once :-))

I made this into a voltage regulator for my QRP ham radio. Now it doesn't matter what battery I hook up to, I have a stable 13.8VDC supply.Its been tested on a low watt variable power supply and can report from about a 8.6V - 24 volt supply it held steady at 13.8. Load wise I've only put about 6 amps through it. No problems.Easy project that will protect your radio from a low voltage condition.

used to adapt my spare Dewalt 20 volt into a 13.8 power supply

Perfect