MOOG ES3472 Tie Rod End

Replacing tie rods in my 2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee. I like the MOOG brand and have used this brand in the past on other vehicles. This tie rod end came with the grease nipple uninstalled, castle nut and cotter pin. This was a perfect fit and it stiffened up my steering to help eliminate the dreaded Death Wobble. I did not think the old tie rod end had any play in it even though it moved easily, but this MOOG part was nice and stiff. Easy to install into cleaned threads of the sleeve and easy to grease up. Ensure that you install the grease nipple straight so take your time. The castle nut torqued down nicely and I was able to align and install the cotter pin into its hole. My WJ feels much better & stable on the highway going over the bumps now.

Easy to install. 1 out of 4 tie rod ends had a 6-8mm cut in the boot but I left it be and I'll keep an eye on it and add grease when needed. Shouldnt be an issue unless it tears more.

My 2001 Grand Cherokee needed the track bar, steering bar, drag link, tie rods (4), sway bar links (2) and the stabilizer shock replaced so after much researching and reading I decided on the Moog product line. My two major deciding factors were: 1. Quality 2. Price Moog exceeded both of these. I really liked that the bushings were already pressed, or install, in place on the replacement parts. The only really extra thing I had to do was screw in the zerk fitting nipple into each of the 4 tie rod ends and fill them with grease once I was done. Installation was straight forward and really no problem at all. I did use Deep Creep on all the old rusty bolts a day ahead of time and again about an hour before starting. They came off with little unexpected effort. I assembled the new tie rod ends into the new steering and drag links, then adjusted them to the same overall length of the old rusty ones I pulled off. One bit of advice if you haven't done this before and are going to do it yourself. Remove the old track bar last and install the new track bar first. The axel will shift and it is easier to crank around under your rig without the steering linkage in the way. I used plain old nylon rachet straps (2 of them) to pull the axel back into place to get the 2nd bolt into the track bar. Not hard at all. The sway bar links, steering bar and drag link all went in easy peasy. Torqued everything down to spec, installed the included cotter pins, greased the 4 fittings and drove it to the alignment shop. Took me about 4 hours from set up to clean up...and most of that time was beer, youtube and chatting with my neighbor. You can do this in much less time. It is not a difficult task. I noticed a significant difference in steering right away. Now after a month, it still feels solid and smooth with very little wiggle (less than 1/2 in, was about 2 1/2 inches before) in the steering wheel. I am sure this is from the still stock steering box with 270,000 miles on it. A side note: You may want to consider replacing your ball joints, or having them done, if your tire has wiggle from top to bottom. Mine were still tight and right so I did not replace them, but you'll want to if they're loose. Overall this was a tremendous improvement to my Jeep. Well worth my time and money. I recommend using the Moog brand. Very good value for the price.

Heavy duty, better then stock

Moog always fits and has decent quality. Much better than local store brands.