LutronLUT-MLC

So, my setup was wired in 3 way. I originally ordered a Claro smart switch for this location, and a Claro accessory switch in location 2. The smart switch is wired on the side where the line comes in from the breaker. I spent an hour on the phone with level one support, which was just an offshore call center where they admitted they knew nothing about wiring. Lutron sent me an email survey right after the call and I said they couldn’t fix the problem. The next day, level 2 support out of Las Vegas, reached out to be to help. This was a 30 year electrician. He still couldn’t get the lights to work correctly. The Claro smart switch was working as advertised at location one; but, location 2 where the accessory switch was, the LEDs were not turning off all the way. I also tried slaving a mechanical switch back in with the accessory switch. That also didn’t work. I ordered a pico paddle switch for location 2 and gave up on the accessory switch idea. Rewire location one to a single pole switch, disabling location 2, and installing the pico paddle in wall in its place. Now location 2 is just a remote paddle in the wall, that’s battery powered. I got a wild hair, after about 2-3 weeks, and decided to order a Diva dimmer in place of the Claro smart switch and remove the pico paddle and try to install the Claro accessory switch again. Breaker back off. Rewire the pico end, install the accessory switch, and require the diva dimmer into the Claro smart switch in location one. Breaker back on. Nope, the LEDs only dimmed to 20% with the dimmer in the complete off position. Breaker back off. Swap the traveler wires on the accessory side. Breaker back on. Made it worse. Breaker off. Switched it back. Then I decided to try this LUT-MLC, after having it for 2 weeks, and not being convinced it was this easy to fix. I wired it in. I’m not sure what the guy is saying about wiring it to ground, it clearly says one end to line the the other end to neutral. This is on the load side. This needs to be wired inline from the switch to the load, which the load is the light. So, in location one, you have line coming in from the breaker. This makes the switch hot. Going to location 2 you have red and black travelers. These are wired normal into the switch. This LUT-MLC needs to be on the side from location 2 to going into the load, which is the light. You’re increasing the power from the switch to the light. One end to neutral, the other end to black which should be hot. Not the black traveler. It needs to be to the black load wire going from the switch to the light.

This little device worked wonders for my LED lighting setup. I had a situation where my LED lights would faintly glow even when turned off, which was quite annoying. After installing the LUT-MLC in the switch box, the ghosting issue was completely resolved. Installation was straightforward—just connected it in parallel with the load. Now, the lights turn off completely with no residual glow. Highly recommend for anyone facing similar issues with LED lights not turning off properly

Sent me an W04 instead of W20. But happy me it worked. It says 6mA on back. My problem was ghost led lights when switch was off. I went from halogen to led, that’s why I had this issue.

Followed the instructions to install the capacitor in parallel configuration to the LED light(s) and ghosting still occurs. Bought two units, one for a single LED light on a single switch, and one for a multi-light/iseries of LEDs also on a single switch.Neither worked to stop LED ghosting.

I installed this to completely shut off my LED light strip and it worked. At first I followed the Lutron instructions to connect to the neutral wire and it did absolutely nothing. So I tested it to the ground wire and that worked. So for me, one end went to the switched power wire (although I don't think it matters on the Caseta dimmer which black wire you choose, nor are either of the black wires labeled at all), and the other end of the capacitor is connected to the ground. Now I can completely turn off the LED wire instead of it being on all the time with the dimmer in the "off" position.Caveat, there is a tiny buzzing sound inside the capacitor but it is not noticeable once you cover up the switch box with the Lutron plastic trim. So I can't hear it standing one foot away but I can if I put my ear an inch away from the switch itself. Totally acceptable trade off for me. But the minus one star was due to the tiny buzz...because I am OCD like that.

If you're not an electrician like me, let me try to shed some light as to how to install this thing.I have the PD-6WCL Lutron dimmer. When I installed the dimmer and turned the light off, it wouldn't go all the way off. It be at the lowest dim level, but it would still be on which was very annoying.After doing some research, I found that this LUT-MLC solves that issue, so I bought it. When I tried to install it, I was very confused by the instructions which ask to install one end to the neutral cable.My wall only had 3 wires coming out, the two that go into each side of the light switch, and the ground one. After calling customer support, I found out how to install it.First of all, always make sure your circuit breaker for the light you're working on is off.So, if your wall only comes with 3 cables, two will go into the black cables from the dimmer and the copper ground cable will go to the green cable that comes from the dimmer. To add the LUT-MLC (which has two ends), attach one end to the ground and green cable connection and the other end to the left side of the dimmer (if you are facing the back of the dimmer and the green cable is at the bottom). That should do the trick so the light turns all the way off. At least it did it for me.The instructions were not very clear to my case, so I hope this helps you if you're in a similar situation. Good luck!