Polymaker PG05001 PolyMide™ CoPA 6/6-6 Filament PA (Polyamide) Heat Resistant, High Tensile Strength

I printed the above image with a stock Kobra Max (260° max nozzle temperature. Although some people suggest it runs hot), 0.8mm nozzle(not a nozzle suggested for small gears)...I have been printing for a well over 5 years and it's not just a side hobby. It's not work but it's an obsession. I've had many printers, I've tried innumerable brands and types of filaments. This is my first favorite. I'm going to write a simple list of why you should buy this filament.By far the strongest filament I have ever used. It's a different kind of strength though. PC FG/cf, peek etc might be stronger in certain ways, But having the same volume as a regular kilogram, yet half the weight, it's just something special. Just a note, the way this filament works is a lot like say porcelain. It's an incredibly strong substance, but if you kind of chip away at it with say a pair of bolt cutters, it'll break easier with scary pieces flying at you.. Kinda like that.Dimensional accuracy is off the charts. You make a hole, the whole will be the size you make it.I only have one printer that prints perfect every time. A toybox printer.. If you know what that is, you'll understand. Anyway, this filament in my Kobra Max, is officially my new most consistent and reliable print. I use Cura to do the "print one at a time" (instead of all at once), and I can have 19 different prints I want done all in that one platform, and it'll just go through one after the other and print them all completely accurate. No more checking every 30 minutes or hour. No need for a camera mounted on it or special failed print sensor...Keep the support material as low density as you can, but when it comes to the support interface and removing this support, it's amazing. The support interface ACTUALLY works...... Really. And once you break off the support which CAN require a lot of strength (ice pick or smaller nozzle size suggested) You're left with a manufacturer quality part. No post-processing necessary.A real quick note, I tried doing the flow reduction for the support material and it ended up failing. I'm sure it's because this material is very thick/.8 nozzle/and printed well below the suggested print temp, But that did fail me. Anyway, I'm sure if you actually have the appropriate setup/settings you'll be fine. Print your support flow to give you ~0.2 mm support line width. Then it should break off super easy, clean and without any excessive strength.Guess that's really all I have to say. Aside from the fact that it also has a really nice texture. Oh, and make sure you use "alternate wall printing direction" or something like that. I'm sure even if you use a smaller nozzle size, there will be a little pull like with metal field or glass filled filaments. You want to make sure it changes direction each layer to avoid that warp and shit. If you use Cura, the newest update has that option in experimental or somewhere at the bottom.This is my summary. I'm using a stock printer, oversized nozzle, and very little is done to try and accommodate this filament suggested print settings. I'm honestly not even sure how it works.But regardless, I'm getting manufacture quality parts. Truly functional.I have every other filament. And although some might have higher strength in certain areas(and usually some disadvantages), but they all require some specialty equipment, tons of work to get it to stick or print clean. High build plate temperatures that waste electricity and often result in warping.And so on and on.And maybe ridiculous for me to say, but I think this is the best filament ever produced...(Aside from basic PLA for prototyping).I just want to know if it comes in 5 kg.

Endergebins definitv besser als das Filament von Bambu. Beide habe ich verwendet, und bei bei 90C im Ofen nach Getempert. Das Filament geht direkt aus der Verpackung raus, in die Trockenbox, über den Sidewinder bei meinem Bambulab P1S. Keine einzigen Druckfehler. Beim Bambu PA6-GF muss das Filament erst ein paar Stunden bei 90C in den Ofen zum Nachtrocknen.... Nachteil natürlich ist das Profil anlegen, zumindest beim BAMBU Studio.

Je viens de réceptionner ce fameux fil et je n'ai pu m'empêcher de le tester immédiatement. Avant de l'acheter, je me suis demandé si mon imprimante 3D de marque: Fokoos allait le supporter.Pour l'adhérence, j'ai utilisé le 3DMilk Adhésif vendu par Amazon qui est tout simplement magique.Pas besoin de support d'accroche dans mon cas.Le résultat d'impression est vraiment au rendez-vous. Aucune bavure, la pièce sort nickel et le nylon est hyper dur. La température utilisée est de 260C° et 60C° pour le plateau avec une vitesse de 40.Je ne suis pas très calé en impression 3D mais là j'ai été surpris de la qualité exceptionnelle de de fil.A noter, j'utilise une boite de séchage durant l'impression.

ottimo. mi sono trovato subito bene. resistenza impressionante

まだまだ3Dプリンタは初心者ですが、Prusa Mk3S+で使用してます。カチカチの硬さでネジ穴にタップを立てて使用してますが。タップがすぐに切れなくなってくるくらいです。ヒートベッドに付きにくいので、のりを使用しています。プリンタ側のドライバーの温度設定にはPA+CFの項目が無いため、温度はPC(275℃)でスタート。ヒートベッドがチンチンになり、表面が泡立つような感じです。(エンクロージャーも使用)とにかく後加工も大変で、使いにくいので、強度の必要な場所に金属の代わりと考えて使用するようにしています。ノズルも真鍮ではなく(0.4mmのままですが)Toaiotという所の高温硬化鋼(?)という謎のノズルに変えました。もう少し柔らかいカーボン混入ナイロン材を探しています。