OMT Front Hub and Rear Axle Puller Set | Front Wheel Hub Puller Set Fits 3-3/4 to 4-1/2 Inch IDs, Rear Axle Puller Kit Fits 4-1/2 to 5-1/2 Inch IDs

Why did you pick this product vs others?:I recently had to replace a wheel bearing on my truck, and the Orion Motor Tech Front Wheel Hub Puller was a lifesaver. What would have been hours of hammering and frustration turned into a smooth, controlled removal process. This tool is solidly built, and you can feel the quality as soon as you pick it up.The flange-type design is smart — it distributes force evenly across the hub and works great on stubborn, rusted-in hubs. The puller lined up perfectly with the studs, and the included forcing screw had no problem handling the torque from my impact wrench. It stayed centered and applied steady pressure without slipping or damaging anything.This is one of those specialty tools that pays for itself on the first use. If you work on front wheel drive vehicles or deal with corroded hubs in colder climates, this is a must-have addition to your toolbox. It made a tough job much more manageable.Highly recommended for DIYers and professionals alike!

Oh man this thing is an absolute TROOPER. Replaced the wheel bearings on my 2016 jeep that spent its entire life living in the snowy midwest; and let me tell you what... those hub bearings were absolutely on there. Fully galled up and there was literally no way I was getting them out. This tool was unable to press them out; but i think thats less of a fault of the tool and more just the situation I was in. The hubs were so stuck in there, this tool pushed the axle out of the back end instead of pulling the bearing assembly OUT haha. For you people that live in the south or do your maintenance on a timely manner instead of waiting 40,000 miles out of spec; this thing will absolutely be worth the money.So that aside, this thing was an absolute BEAST for me. In for a penny here; I just started wailing on it with a 2 pound sledge. Rotating it while keeping pressure on the axle and hub for a pulling force. I am talking a serious amount of force being applied with these sledge strikes. I had to actually stop and get hearing protection on because of how loud it was. I beat on this thing for dang near 30 minutes and the hub bearing slowly but surely wiggled itself out. Keep in mind, this is absolutely NOT the right tool for THAT type of job; and they do make those kinds of tools, but I am telling you this because I am shocked at how well this thing held up. For a 20$ tool, I am extremely impressed at the overall build quality.I WILL SAY, the threaded portions are going to be a weak point of this device, and this really should be looked at as a semi disposable "one car job" kinda tool unfortunately. If youre in the professional world; you probably want something with acme threads and a more substantial rod; but we are talking a different type of money here. The threads on these will not hold up in the long run; but it will absolutely get you through all 4 hub bearings on a rusted out car. Not sure why the tool is listed as a "front wheel hub puller" as it very much works the exact same way on all four wheels lol.Picture of the rust to show what kind of working condition this is lol

I bought the Orion Motor Tech Universal Front Wheel Hub Puller Set to tackle the nightmare that was my 1996 Geo Metro hatchback’s extremely rusty brake rotors and drums. Let me tell you—this tool was an absolute lifesaver!The puller set is solid, well-built, and made easy work of removing parts that had been stuck for decades. The forcing bolt had plenty of power, and the versatility of the tool allowed me to work on both the front and rear without issues. I was especially impressed with how well it handled the rusted-on drums—without this kit, I’d probably still be hammering away in frustration.Pro tips: Use a deep lug nut to attach tool to rotor/drum/hub. Soak with penetrating oil for awhile before starting. Use a breaker bar, not an impact driver. Go slowly, give it half a turn and then wait a minute. Repeat until it gives way, you will hear it pop.If you’re dealing with old, corroded, or seized brake components, this is the tool you need. I highly recommend it!

It gets the job done, but quality-wise, after performing the rear drive halfshaft lubrication at the hub, the forcing bolt threads lost some of their coating. If you’re only using it once or twice every couple of years for DIY service or repairs, it’s good enough.

Worked on one hub but stripped out getting the other one off. Find a better made tool. Waste of money.

Works like a charm!

The front wheel hub puller fits inside the well of a JD LA145 rear wheel (20x10.00-8). This is important because on John Deere wheels you have to drill the hole yourself. Unless your holes are lined up just right, you will bend up your bolts without moving the wheel.After wasting time and money using other methods, I finally got this to work:0: Spray lots of PB Blaster between the wheel and axle on both sides of the wheel.1. tap a small indent in the middle of the axle (optional)2. Set the puller against the wheel (only the 3 3/4 - 4 1/2 one fits) and use the two slots that are opposite each other to stencil marks right on the wheel.3. Use a 1/2 drill bit (make sure it's for metal)to drill through at your marks. Note, the wheel here is not very thick, maybe a 1/4 inch so it doesn't require much drilling. Place a piece of cardboard or rag under the wheel to catch the metal shavings that will be produced and wear a simple mask, like a COVID mask. Wipe up the remaining shavings with a rag sprayed with PB Blaster.4. Attach the puller to the wheel. Run bolts through the puller and drill-holes and then fasten a nut on the back end. Make sure the nuts are relatively evenly threaded (for instance, if you thread one with 10 twists , then use 10 twists on the other. This will ensure that your puller comes straight back and does not cant relative to the wheel. Otherwise, you might bend blots).5. Jack up the rear end so the tire is off the ground.6. Use a breaker bar to torque the stubborn wheel right off. You will need someone to hold the wheel and keep it from turning. Otherwise, run a metal rod between the puller and screw so that it contacts the ground. As you wrench, the puller will try to turn with the wheel, but will be prevented by the rod in contact with the ground.7. Crack a beer and admire the sight of the wheel-less, rusty axle that no amount of pounding or lubing or heating could overcome.8. Clean the axle with rag soaked with brake cleaner and then sand the rust off with 220 grit sandpaper. Make sure you clean the key and key groove, too. Clean inside the wheel, too - it might help to use a sanding drum on a drill, but I didn't have to because I replaced the wheel anyway.9. Wipe clean with the brake-cleaner rag again and let it dry for a minute or two.10. Apply anti-size compound so that this never happens again (I used Permatex)I had to replace my wheel anyway, due to previous abuse from trying other methods. This method should keep your wheel in tact though. I suppose you would want to find some rubber plugs or else bondo over the holes when you are done,

It’s well-made, but it’s not universal. It doesn’t fit lots of things. It wouldn’t fit the Kawasaki Mule.

Works great. Both front wheel bearings were bad on my Kia Sorento. I replaced the passenger side bearing before i had this tool, what a nightmare! I tried everything, including an air hammer, and heating the hub with torches. Eventually had to pretty much destroy the CV shaft by pounding on the end and damaging the threads. To complete the repair it required a new CV shaft assembly and wheel bearing.I then ordered this hub puller to use on the drivers side. All i can say is WOW! I removed the brake caliper, bracket, and rotor. Then removed the axle nut. Then installed the puller on the studs of the bearing and securing with 3 wheel lug nuts and started tightening the puller bolt against the shaft and applying pressure while striking the outer edge of the old bearing. After tightening the puller bolt and striking the bearing a couple more times the shaft started to move. Once it was moving easier i removed the wheel bearing mounting bolts and continued to use the puller to fully press the shaft out of the bearing. Presto, wheel bearing removed, and no damage to the CV shaft or threads, or the puller.Couple things I recommend, do not use an impact on the puller bolt, instead use a large 1/2 inch ratchet or johnson bar and tighten so theres a good amount of preload on it then strike the edges of the wheel bearing a few times, then tighten the bolt some more and repeat process until shaft starts to move. With some patience it should let go after a while. Impacts can damage or strip the puller bolt. Also be sure to lubricate the threads of the puller bolt with grease and or penetrating spray before and during the procedure. This tool has more than paid for itself after only using once.

Se ven bien a ver cuanto duran

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Holly crap, if you have a stuck CV axle n. BUYY THIS . I spent 4 hours on and off smashing a CG axle end in with fire , Lube, crayon , nothing would make it budge . I put this little doo hickey on it for less than 20 seconds , took my Milwaukee gun and didn’t even use the highest setting and it came out 10-15 seconds after the rod touched the end of the axle . Amazing product for super super cheap , not sure if it’ll work a bunch of times but threads are still good and I beat onnit for those 10-15 seconds . Highly reccomend .

it didnt QUITE fit my lugnuts. the nuts couldnt go all the way down. to lock it in place and theres no included washer or anything. the angle of the center part is just enough to interfere with the lugnuts. i took a grinder to it to make it fit. after that it worked quite well.