Liqui Moly Pro-Line Engine Flush | 500 ml | Oil additive | SKU: 2037

This brand is great. The car is running great

Used a whole can in my 2009 Civic 1.8L with 150k miles. I can honestly say, this helped remove a lot of sludge out of the engine. The oil came out with a water-like texture and super dark! Before taking out the oil filter, I added new lower cost oil to the engine and let the engine run for about 5 minutes to get that extra flush! You can definitely see all the extra sludge in the new oil! Drained and refilled with new oil and filter. The engine definitely sounded quieter and smoother than before! If you value your car, I would definitely recommend doing this flush on your higher mileage cars every 50k miles or so! Definitely recommend this LiquiMoly product!

Update - 3rd oil change/flush. Engine oil draining from engine is waaaay cleaner than my first flush. Probably won't need to do a 4th time for several changes. I added Ceratec at this change and am amazed how much better the engine performs since my initial flush. Less clatter and very smooth idle. (Jeep 4.0 I6) Update- 2nd change and used the flush again. About 7000 miles from first use. The oil was cleaner and less "gunky" as first time but oil was definitely dirtier than normal. Right away noticed off idle throttle response improved. Then on a drive I take regularly with a mountain pass and long downhill I noticed that even tho the jeep downshifted out of OD it took much less throttle to hold 65 up a long grade. On the downhill normally I would see 50-60 mpg max on the digital readout. This time. It went to 99 which to me indicates more vaccum below the throttle plate. My guess is the rings freed up a bit more than the first flush and highway mileage is up to 23+ where I would get 21 before. Nice! Used in 2001 Jeep Grand Cherokee. 140k miles and a ticking lifter (common in the 4.0 - 6 cylinder...). Definitely cleaned sludge (oil filter very heavy!) and oil was dark when draining. Idles smoother, oil stays cleaner longer, slight oil pressure increase and runs cooler. The lifter still ticks but probably a cam lobe issue. Will use it after 7500 miles or 1 year. Will report back after next change.

Had a check engine light come on for cam shaft position. Did some research online about the specific code and found that I could be due to sludge in the engine. Added this and ran for about 30 minutes and then had the oil changed. The light never came back on and the engine is running smooth and quiet. Will definitely use again.

Bought a used 2020 Jeep Sahara 2 liter turbo charged with 80k miles from a dealership. Dealership had just changed oil the day of purchase. Drove it home 30 miles down interstate and another 20 back roads, it ticked and tapped allot at idle and the dip stick was varnished. I added the flush, let it idle for 10 minutes and drained it. The new oil from the dealership drained out jet black, no light could pass thru it. I changed the oil with Walmart oil and a cheap oil filter and let it idle for 5 minutes to clean out all the engine flush, it drained out clean and clear. I refilled it with Pennzoil Platinum High Mileage oil and a Fram Ultra Synthetic oil filter. It's been a week and the engine is noticeably quieter and smoother since using this product. If nothing else it cleaned allot of carbon from inside of my engine.

My 06 Altima (185k miles) had been burning massive amounts of oil (like 4 quarts every 800 miles) due to a leaking PCV valve hose that took forever for me to narrow down (months). So after getting that under control I figured I needed to decontaminate the poor engine. When using this I idled my car to operating temp (about 8 minutes). Poured the bottle in, idled it for another 15 minutes. Drained the oil (black and thick). Put the plug back in, poured about 2.5qts of new oil in. Idled it for 10 minutes. Drained that (black but much thinner). Took the old filter off. Let both areas drain for 10 minutes. Put the plug back in, put the new filter on and filled with the 4.6qts of new oil my car calls for. Ran for a few minutes (like 2 with a few revs) and then let sit for 10 mins before checking the level. When I checked my dipstick it was so clean I thought I had a leak because I couldn't see it on any of the crosshatch. I ended up having to go by touch to get the reading. This stuff is amazing.

I used 1/2 of this product to flush my 2014 Porsche Cayenne 3.0 turbocharged diesel prior to doing an oil change with 142k miles. Not wanting to give a glowing review of the product until I had a chance to see if there were any noticeable changes to the engine. It’s been 800 miles since using the product and I have noticed after starting and monitoring the water temp, oil temp and oil pressure the engine oil temp definitely remains much cooler than before and doesn’t reach what I believe is the normal operating temperature until having driven 3-4 miles, while the water temp comes up to normal temps as does the oil pressure. I can definitely say the oil temp is lower, which is what I believe this products is responsible for by cleaning out the engine oil pathways! I’m going to use the other half of this product in my 2011 Toyota Tundra with 260k miles. It should be noted I use Mobil 1 oil for both of these vehicles and do oil changes between 5-7k miles.

2009 Toyota Camry LE No more oil consumption and burning. Pretty amazing stuff. Great brand.

I used this on a 2002 BMW E46 I had purchased with no idea of the prior maintenance history. Engine was running a little rough, especially on cold starts despite an oil change immediately after I purchased the car. I elected to use this product for a thorough engine flush which I performed as follows: I poured in the entire contents of the can into the crankcase with the old oil, and ran for about 12 minutes at idle speeds (anywhere between 10-15 minutes is safe). I drained the old oil which as expected, was pitch black. I then refilled the engine with cheaper oil I had purchased from Ace (around 140 AED for 7L) with a brand new filter. Ran that oil for a day just to clean out any remaining deposits and solvent (even though it is designed to evaporate). Some may ridicule this as overkill, but honestly spending 160 AED for a cheap oil and filter is a minuscule price to pay for engine longevity and peace of mind. I drained the oil which had already turned a dark brown, exhibiting just how much of the old oil and deposits remained in the engine. I filled it for the the 2nd and final time with Liqui Moly's "Molygen" 5w40 which is BMW LL-01 certified. After almost 2 weeks, I've inspected the oil several times and it has remained remarkably clean despite driving almost 1,000km. The engine settles down much quicker, and is certainly much quieter and smoother before. If you are religious about changing your oil every 5,000 to 7,000km and have maintained your car since new, this product and entire process is unnecessary. Regular oil changes and the additives/detergents in modern motor oil is sufficient. However if like me, you have purchased a car with no idea of the prior history of maintenance (which you should determine from actual service records and not just the hearsay of the seller) then this is a worthwhile extra step for peace of mind.

ممتاز

Done after 40k kms in ecosports. Good response. Go for it

¿Es parte indispensable en un cambio de aceite? No, la verdad no. Sin embargo, la fórmula cumple perfectamente con su función si sigues las instrucciones al pie de la letra. Si no sabes cómo usarlo, búscalo en YouTube (preferentemente en los canales oficiales de la marca). Entonces ¿para qué usarlo si no es indispensable?, bueno la respuesta es sencilla: para sacarle el mejor provecho al aceite nuevo habiendo limpiado por dentro el motor. Si quieres que el aceite nuevo realmente cumpla con su propósito (lubricante, detergente, etc., etc., etc.,) lo ideal es que "trabaje" en un máquina lo más limpia posible. Así que, en conclusión, es un excelente "pre" para que el motor esté en mejores condiciones para recibir el aceite nuevo.

This works great. I used it after I had just done an engine flush and oil change. Turned my fresh oil black! My truck has had the engine changed, has under 130,000 on the engine, and has been regularly serviçed with full synthetic oil etc. Not an old negleted beater. Check engine light is on from an oxygen sensor, because I ran seafoam through it when I did the first oil change. Code is cleared now, has not returned. Just before my last oil change in my 2008 Sierra 1500, with the 4.8, I added some transmission fluid to my oil (old school teick to clean engine out, I have been doing this for years) idled about 5 km, then added some store bought engine flush. Idled for 5 minutes, then drained all the oil. I jacked up my truck and let it fully drain for about 20 minutes until no oil was left. It came out black, and my oil filter was heavy I then filled it with cheap conventional oil and put a new filter on. My oil pressure went up slightly, and the lifter tick went away. I drove it for 2 days, putting less then 200 km on the new oil. It was still clean, and as clear as the day I put it in. I added this engine flush, and idled it for 15 minutes. The oil pressure went down slightly, and the lifter tick returned. This stuff cleaned a ton of crap out of my already flushed engine! Oil filter was again heavy, even after draining the oil from it for 10 minutes (not as heavy as the first one, but still, heavier then a used filter normally is) Drained all oil out again, refilled and put a new filter on. As you can see from the pictures, the oil came out black again. The oil pressure went up higher then it ever has been since I owned the truck, and the lifter tick is completely gone. Definitely reccomend this. Also, if you are at a point of doing an engine flush, I would probably do what I did and use this as a second flush, as I believe it works better then cheap store brand. How could it get the oil that black if the store brand stuff did it's job? I really did not expect my oil to be as dirty as it was