Baxi combi 80E & 105E DHW Domestic Hot Water Diaphragm, Repair Kit 5111137

Great value for money. God knows what an engineer would have cost. Baxi have an online tutorial for repairing this fault, on the diverter valve. Search for it and if you can follow it, get this repair kit and give it a go. I've had hot water from the taps every time since I replaced the damaged diaphragm.

We had a problem where hot water with the shower failed a couple times then seemed OK. We called the plumber who came to check it out and perform a service, finding no problems. Later on during the lockdown the shower failed regularly unless the heating was on as well. We couldn't get anybody to come out, so we just went along like this for a couple weeks.Eventually the shower failed entirely, however we discovered that it would work if the hot water was first turned on downstairs, so that gave me a clue and I started searching with Google. This had been experienced by others with the same Baxi and they suggested it needed a new diaphragm, so I ordered one and it arrived the next day.The plumber came a couple days later and basically watched the YouTube video I found to see how it was done... It was all completed in about 20 minutes and sure enough the old diaphragm had perished. There was also a lot build up behind it that looked like calcium deposits and these were scraped away with a screwdriver. It was the first time this had been checked in 13 years and made me wonder why I had been paying for annual services, however I am glad to say this kit worked beautifully and it is now working better than it has in years.

Saved me a fortune. After a bit of research - water not turning hot for some taps realised diaphragm is a common problem.Easy to replace via YouTube videos. Saved a fortune in calling a boiler engineer.

The only reason I gave this only 4 stars is because it arrived without the silicone lubricant as shown in the list of items included. But that didn't matter because it still worked a treat and I got my boiler working again.

Stoped the leak

This is exactly what you need to get your hot water back on again.Tip: If the little brass nut that guides the plunger onto the micro switch is the only bit that's leaking, just change that!If your hot water is not heating then the diaphragm is easy to fit, there are YouTube videos showing how to do it. I watched a few of them first before going in!Make sure the power is off and the water supply taps on the boiler are turned off before you start.A bit of water will come out, not much so put some thing underneath like a bowl or towel.Carefully unscrew and remove the micro switch and place it to the side out of the way.Carefully loosen the little copper pipe that goes in to the housing at the top and lift it out of the housing.Next loosen the six screws while holding both sides of the housing together firmly,undo them fully while gently letting the spring pressure expand in your hand, remove the screws. Let the housing open up and remove the spring, the front plunger should be in place in the housing.You can now remove the "mushroom" and diaphragm and mushroom note how it all fits together (if you have no hot then the diaphragm will usually be perished or split but if you are this far in replace it anyway) clean up the faces of the housing and plungers with a cloth and silicone grease all the components before reassembling. Carefully reposition the rear plunger on the mushroom through the diaphragm centrally as you don't want to damage that bit. You should now be left with the little O ring which is what the rear plunger goes through. This has to be fitted BEHIND the brass nut plunger guide that is located on the REAR of the housing (similar to the one on the front) and although simple enough to fit it requires you to dismantle the diaphragm housing from the rest of the diverter valve block ( it's held in place with two flat head brass grub screws) , easy enough to get off but lots of swearing to get back on, in position and tight.If you have to remove the front bit then carefully loosen and remove the rear little copper pipe from the housing, then undo the retain screws on the sides they're at about 1 o'clock and seven) don't remove them fully - just enough to release the front housing.I only found one video on YouTube which actually shows this so again, if it's NOT leaking from the back plunger then leave well alone!May I add that I only attempted this fix because of the pandemic my British Gas service cover would only send an engineer out if we had NO heating or hot water but not for a leak, I am a medical engineer (30 years in) and this stuff is not a million miles away from what I do for a living so I'm not without a clue. Also may I add this is purely mechanics/hydraulics and about as basic as it gets.If there was gas involved then under absolutely no circumstances would I have attempted to do this!So if you feel competent and confident then do the replacement but if in any doubt please bite the bullet and get a professional to do the job.If you use the wrong tools or over tighten stuff then it could turn in to a very expensive repair just when you thought it was going to save you a few quid!

Good product, but advert shows that it has a tube of silicone grease with it.This came with out it so marking down for this reason

Fixed my own leaking boiler for less than £5 - fantastic.