Official Creality Ender 3 3D Printer Fully Open Source with Resume Printing Function DIY Printers Build Volulme 8.66x8.66x9.84 inch

I've only printed a few things so far but it's enough to give some good feedback. At this price point don't expect any frills. That said this bare bones printer performs great. First off from my pictures you'll notice I upgraded the print bed to glass. It's only an extra $12 at the time I purchased. I read some other info online that lead me to believe this would be more likely to be level and perform better. i don't regret it. It works great. My advice would be to take your time assembling this printer. Expect it to take about 4 hours, perhaps more. Make sure everything is tight and aligned properly in terms of the rollers, belts etc. Do not rely on the quick start guide or included instructions. Go out to Youtube and follow the assembly video. Pause it for each step. When you are done stay on Youtube. There is a "Complete beginner's guide" on there from an Australian creator that demonstrates using this exact model. I noticed his menus are a little different due to software changes but his leveling guide and calibration files work great. For being one of the cheapest printers you can get the performance is surprising. I'm very happy with the print quality. I love that I can use tools on Linux or Windows. You don't need to be plugged in as you can simply print from G code on the included micro SD card. The videos online can get you up and running quickly. Every tool needed to build and run the printer are in the box. Nice touch. There is a small amount of PLA material but you will want to order more right away. The included spool is small and really only enough for a couple test prints. If you are a beginner why spend more? This is the perfect first printer. Update: I thought I would add to my review now that I have had some time working with this printer. I've made a lot of improvements to the device I first received. The nice thing is most of the improvements are cheap or you can print them. First thing to note: I was having a lot of problems with printing anything large that took a bit of time. After a lot of digging I found the hotend shipped with the printer was (in my opinion) put together wrong. They either built it cold or inserted the nozzle before the heat break. Either way there was a gap that could not be fixed in the hotend. I bought a Creality spider hotend which is all metal. Way better and it works great. Add to that a BL Touch sensor for autoleveling the bed. Best addition ever. You still need to start with a level bed but it fixes all the little problems with uneven bed surfaces and stopped my extruder problems. While on the extruder. Calibrate your machine! Take the time to measure the output from your extruder. They use a generic setting from the factory. You NEED to set up this machine. Calibrate the extruder, the retraction distance, the nozzle temp for the filiment etc. Pay attention to the details and you will get great results. Really happy with this printer. It takes work but it's a fun project that leads to other projects, and for a beginner it's hard to beat. Some say you should buy higher end and avoid all the minor issues. I disagree. I think this has been a learning experience that prompted me to understand the machine. I think that basic knowledge of the process is important. Your mileage may vary.

The Ender 3 marked my entry into the 3D-printing world, and I love it! The 3D printer has been a godsend! If you're also newbie and searching for advice, here's my brief take on the Ender 3. It's awesome! The Ender 3 arrives in pieces that you must assemble. Since it is essentially a robot, assembly can seem overwhelming at first, but if you take it one step at a time, you'll be printing in no time. I found the printed instructions accompanying the unit to be more sizzle than steak, but, fortunately there are several videos on YouTube that make assembly a breeze. Believe it or not, assembling the unit yourself is beneficial because it familiarizes you with the device. It will allow you to easily make the minor adjustments that 3D printers often require. My wife and I have found that 3D printing comes with somewhat of a steep learning curve, but it's fun. YouTube and websites such as "all3DP dot com" have proven themselves to be life savers. The most common adjustments you'll make while 3D printing is "bed leveling." In truth, though, you're not actually "leveling" the print bed, but rather you're ensuring that the print nozzle is uniformly distanced from the bed (the print surface) on all its 4 corners. The nozzle needs to be super close, too. ...not about an inch or two away from the print bed, but rather it needs to be no further than the thickness of a piece of paper. Crazy, huh? When my wife and I printed a test file provided by Creality (the manufacturer), we frankly sat mesmerized at the unit's precision. It was like staring into a campfire and getting lost in the flames. The nozzle just zipped back and forth across the print bed leaving tiny bits of corn-based "plastic" one layer at a time, and eventually (over time) created a cat/dog thingy. In search of more things to print, we settled on two websites with tons of 3D-printable files that are very often free to download. The websites are "thingiverse dot com" and "cults3d dot com". The latter site takes longer to load, but seems to have more options. Creality has one too, but I haven't really checked it out yet. It's important to note that the files you download from such websites are *.stl files, whereas the Ender 3 needs *.gcode files. To make the file conversion, we downloaded a piece of software called Cura. It appears to be the best (free) software on the market for "slicing" 3D files into *.gcode files. That too has a steep learning curve, complete with complicated settings. But fortunately there are lots of tutorials online along with settings you can copy from experts. I mostly rely on "all3DP dot com" for that. After a while, we decided to invent our own designs and then print them into existence. In my opinion, the cat's meow -- the best and easiest 3D design application -- is Fusion360. It has a limited free version for students and schools, but otherwise it's quite pricey. My wife then found free, open-sourced design software called FreeCAD. We love it, and haven't turned back since. The filament we prefer is PLA. In our experience, PLA produces little to no fumes and it's guilt-free because it's corn-based and biodegradable. It should be noted, though, that not all PLA is created equally. This is primarily because (according to what I've read) pigments affect the PLA in different ways. So, when I order PLA from Amazon, I always look for the PLA with the most and highest reviews. Then, I refer upon their temperature recommendations. Overall, we absolutely love the Ender 3. At under $200, it's extremely affordable, and the process of printing things into existence can be (in my experience) somehow transformative. And if you find yourself confused about something, take my advice by not wasting time by trying to figure it out for yourself. Just refer to the experts on any of the websites I mentioned so, later on, you can focus on things that really matter...like design. Note: the bearing on a little fan went out. So, I reached out to Comgrow, they got back to me immediately, and now a new fan is on the way. No fuss no muss. Finally, at the risk of getting to personal, I'm a disabled veteran who benefits from focusing on tangible things. The process of 3D printing has proven itself to be such a godsend in that regard, that I think the VA should seriously explore ways of getting more vets 3D printing. I hope this helped newbies like me. Happy printing!

Looked at several printers and decided this was the best bang for buck printer, here in mid 2019. Also popular and a large support community. The assembly was moderate. An internet videos is a MUST as no one could easily assemble or understand the brief picture instruction sheet it comes with. Took me two hours to do things meticulously. Leveling the bed was not so bad. Took me a lot of fine tuning but I wanted it perfect for that first print. Leveling is also a task that is best done after watching several youtube videos. Seriously, no matter how smart you think you are, there is no replacement for real life people who have done this stuff and learned some lessons. First print was underway. I was confused for about 10 minutes the head/nozzle was down on the build mat doing all its motions and the filament was going in but I was not seeing anything being built. Strangely nothing was coming out. In hind site, I think maybe it was putting down a very thin base to build on. So thin it was hard to see. Because eventually it got into the actual feet of the dog and you could see it come together. Its amazing how that nozzle of goop can make such a fine print. Truly amazing. The two bad things: The First bad thing was, the demo dog you print, as a test, would have taken about 2 and a half hours, But they are not even nice enough to give you enough filament to complete it. It printed up to the dogs neck and then ran out. This was disappointing, but I would get over it. The second bad thing and the reason I took a star off was this. When the print was "done". (with no head) I decided to pull it and get ti ready for the next day when I would have more filament. The dog was stuck to the mat like Iron. People on the internet say "oh just give it a little twist, or a hard pull", or "get a putty knife" or some crap like that. Some even say put it in the freezer and the temp diff will just pop it loose. Let me tell you, I tried it ALL. I was even beating the object against the leg of my coffee table like a hammer, and it would not let go of the build mat. It could not have been more attached to that build plate if I had super glued the thing down. The ONLY thing that finally worked was to get a heat gun and seriously heat the mat up, almost to the point where I was melting the printed object, then after some force, it peeled off. IF it had printed it to completion, and I wanted to keep it, I would have had a crazy skirt of plastic around the bottom to trim off. I love the printer, it does some amazing work, but I need to find a way to get my finished projects off the mat without damaging them.

Great printer, but not flawless. The assembly instructions are sparse and the parts are unlabeled. For example the right extrusions looks a whole lot like the left and give no indication of top and bottom. Pictures are worth a thousand words, and there are few, and some are so small as to be useless. The z-axis sensor sets to high, but can't be lowered without cutting off a tab on the bracket, easy to do but why make it with the tab? They know it's bad, but make no mention of it in the instructions, I had to dig on the internet to get an answer. (I'm not sure but this was the sole need for the included wire cutters.) The user instructions are equally spartan, I have found zero information on the use of some screens. These used to come with glass beds, which are MUCH better, suggest you get one if you have adhesion problems. If I'm being picky I have to be picky in both directions, and it did come with the coolest, smallest, microSD reader ever.

TL;DR: If you want to print, avoid it. If you want to spend endless nights tweaking, welcome aboard. After a year: constant stringing, clogs, ugly seams, random failures after 8-12 hours of printing. The "first print" is fine. Everything after that is a circus. By the way, Creality ships this "starter printer" with a cheap plastic sticker bed held on with binder clips. You end up scraping parts off like it’s 2016. A proper $10 PEI flex plate would solve adhesion and removal, but apparently that was too much to include. So you WILL start upgrading from day one. And calling it a "suitable gift for kids"? That’s marketing comedy. This is a machine where you need to clean a 240 °C hotend, calibrate extrusion steps with 100 mm tests, and constantly tweak retraction/temperature. That’s not a toy - that’s a frustration kit. What I Printed Utility stuff: organizers, boxes, lids, rings, toys etc. PLA, PETG, TPU, CF - sometimes a 0.8 nozzle for bigger parts. Cura (latest versions). Out of the Box The first couple of simple models were tolerable. As soon as you go beyond the default settings, chaos begins. Seams turn into ugly zits. Too many retractions = clog city. You leave it overnight, burn 12 hours of power and filament, and wake up to a printer happily "printing in the air" because the hotend is jammed with a solid plug of plastic. Look at the photos: spiderwebs, blobs at seams, tears at layer changes, chunks of plastic from supports. That’s normal for this machine, not an exception. Upgrades I Tried: - Metal extruder arm instead of plastic - Capricorn PTFE tube - Bi-metallic heatbreak - Stronger bed springs - PEI build plate (this one is actually good) - Different nozzles (0.2, 0.4, 0.6, 0.8) - Tons of Cura profiles I did the full calibration dance: e-steps, flow 85-105%, temp towers (PLA 195-215, PETG 225-250), retractions from 0.8 to 7mm (Bowden life), speed 30-70mm/s, z-hop on/off, coasting/wipe/pressure advance where possible. Cooling fan anywhere from 0-100%. Always the same outcome: either strings and blobs, or under-extrusion, or a clog after a long run. Zero consistency. Why This Happens (Technical Reality) - Bowden with PTFE insert in the hotend. Frequent retractions pull the melt zone upwards - plastic plug forms - extrusion stops. Classic. - Rollers and V-slot mechanics. After a couple weeks, you’re back to chasing loose or overtightened wheels. The bed drifts, no auto-leveling, constant manual fixing. - Weak hotend and cooling. PETG in particular is a balancing act: no cooling = melted mess, too much cooling = layer adhesion dies and strings everywhere. - Software band-aids can’t fix hardware lottery. You can tweak overlap/coast/comb/linear advance forever, but if the core thermal/mechanical design is inconsistent, no profile saves you. "It’s Your Fault"? No I did the standard rookie-to-veteran upgrade path: extruder, tube, heatbreak, springs, plate, endless tuning. The result? Yes, the clogs went down, but the print quality problems went up. Same model, same filament - each print is a new lottery ticket. Side-by-Side Reality After a year of fighting, my wife got sick of watching me suffer and just bought me a $1000 printer. With the same filament and same models, I print instead of troubleshoot. That’s the whole difference. Pros - Cheap entry ticket - Huge community (good if you enjoy endless tinkering) - PEI plate really is great Cons - Totally inconsistent print quality - Thermal clogs on long jobs (especially with retractions) - Stringing, blobs, ugly seams, messy supports - V-rollers need constant adjustment - "Upgrades will fix it" is a myth: they only delay the pain Verdict Ender-3 is not "affordable printing," it’s "affordable endless tweaking." If your hobby is upgrading printers for the sake of it - fine. If you need a tool that consistently makes parts - don’t waste your time. I wasted mine. Never again.

For being a novice 3D printer person, this device can do a lot of things. A friend of mine has this same printer and with his help and previous knowledge from using the same printer, I have really learned a lot and his expertise has helped me with a lot of questions that I would have had to ask others about. I ordered this 3D printer on 28 Jan 2021 and it was delivered on 04 Feb 2021. Creality really does a great job packing all of the parts and pieces. It took a little bit of setting up, but watching several YouTube videoes on how to unbox and setup this printer really was a big help. The most critical thing with this printer, is making sure that the bed is level. If your bed is not level, then the filament will not stick to the surface of the bed. It will take 30-45 minutes to level your bed. There are several videos on YouTube on "How to level your Ender 3 v2 printer". Also, depending on what type of filament you are going to use, you need to know what is the best nozzle temperature to set. I found that the GEEETECH, MILKA and HATCHBOX PLA filaments are the best, but that is my own opinion. I found that 185 Celsius for the nozzle temp and the bed temp of 50 degree Celsius was the best settings. But, most manufacturers will have printed on the side of the spool what temps to use and also when you use the "slicer program" for the things you want to print it will already be programmed into the "gcode". But, still set the temps to 185C and 50C for the PLA filaments and see how that works. I also ordered the "Ender 3 Springs, Creality Upgraded 4PCS Hot Bed Die Springs with 4PCS Aluminium Hand Twist Leveling Nut for Ender 3/3 Pro/3 V2, Ender 5/5 Pro/5 Plus, CR-10, CR10S/10S Pro, CR 20 3D Printer" kit. This replaces the springs that come with the Ender 3 printer and is a more sturdier spring (hot die spring) instead of the less sturdier spring that comes standard on this printer. It will keep your bed level after several prints. Also, make sure that you check the belts for the X and Y axis after several prints. All you have to do is to tighten the knobs just a fraction of a turn, but make sure not to overtighten. My friend printed me some additions, which we found on "Thingiverse.com", to add onto my printer which really helps, one is a pulley wheel that attaches to the side of the printer to help streamline the filament from the spooler to the extrueder so that it doesn't crimp when printing. Also, I have printed several items that I downloaded from THINGIVERSE.COM and all of them turned out great. I found out from my friend that using blue painters tape and the Elmer's Purple glue stick really helps the different filaments to stick to the surface. Put the blue painters tape down and then level your bed and once leveled, then use the purple glue stick on the painters tape and smooth with your finger. I also downloaded the slicer software "CURA" (the "slicer software") to create the "gcode" that this 3D printer uses to print your items that you download from "THINGIVERSE.com". There is a "slicer" program that comes with the printer on the SD Card and it looks just like "CURA" but Creality just added a few other things to make it look a little different. Either "slicer program" will work. I have also purchased about $200 worth of PLA (harder) and PETG (softer) filaments. Should not be running out of that anytime soon. Overall, Creality does make a great printer and so far, I have not had any issues to be really concerned about. Overall, I give this printer a 5 out of 5 stars. Just do your research on what you and your friends are likely to use. I am very pleased and recommend this printer to everyone. Those people that are giving this device bad reviews are ones that have no idea on what they are doing and have not done the reasearch in order to make this thing enjoyable. You just can not setup this printer and expect it to automatically print. There is some work involved and once you do the research and learn from those that have gone thru these situations, i guarantee that this device will be the next fun thing that you will ever own and have fun using day-in and day-out. I am glad i had the expertise from my friend or I might be giving some critical reviews also. Do your homework. I think this is the future toy that everyone will have in their household. Happy 3D printing! 19 April 2021 I have had this printer for almost 3 months now, and i can say that I have had no really big problems with this 3D printer from Ender. Yes, there is a few twikking that needs to be done from time-to-time, but if you have the patience, this thing can really be fun for you and the family. Once again, the biggest thing is getting the bed level but usually you don't have to worry with that until after 8-10 prints. Again, i use the Blue Painter's tape for the filament to adhere to and i also used the Purple Glue Sticker. For smaller and more detailed prints, using these 2 things can make for removing your print a little difficult. I use a little rubbing alcohol and it will come loose. For finer prints where things are more detailed, you might also want to slow the speed of the print from 100% to about 50-70%. I have printed some pedals or flowers for the hummingbird feeder that i made and the print speed needed to be adjusted and really did a fine job. Using the faster speed (100%), the detailed flowers were messed up. I would still recommend this to everyone. I enjoy my Ender 3D printer everytime i print something. Good luck.

First: I UNFAIRLY began this review about the Comgrow Ender 3 stating that: "the pre-assembled Y-Axis shipped with severe dents on all four rollers, and two of the rollers on the X-Axis have minor defects in the form of tiny, shallow cuts that look like bin damage..." I WAS WRONG!!!!! Don't do what I did; I know we just can't wait to slap the machine together and get printing, but if you want to make the Ender 3 perform like a $5000.00 printer, there will be some adjustments and fine tuning to do. Here's where I went wrong: I studied this printer, its reviews, and many different YouTube channels long before I made the decision to buy it, and I understood that motion along the X-Y-Z axis must be smooth as possible, and I viewed at least a couple of videos that said their Ender 3 shipped with "flat spots". So, I put it together following the VERY BASIC (but very well-written, easy to understand) instructions, and both the Y and X axis had "hard, bumpy spots" at regular intervals, where these so-called "flat spots" and "cuts" contacted the extrusion, but instead of looking a little more closely at the setup as MOST of the videos suggested, I made an incorrect assumption because: I DID NOT FOLLOW THE ADVICE OF THE EXPERTS. Comgrow has already contacted me to provide replacement rollers, so their customer service alone has my FIVE STARS, not to mention their patience with impatient 58 year-old children like myself! THANK YOU COMGROW! People, don't get impatient like me: Take the time to examine the pre-built assemblies, and clean the V-Grooves and rollers thoroughly whether they look like they need it or not. This is because tiny bits of soft debris from the packing material, barely visible, can stick to the rollers and v-groove surfaces, and this is what caused me to believe I had flat spots. The next day, I disassembled the axis with problems, but when I examined the Y-axis rollers I saw no flat spots, and the "bin cuts" on the X-axis rollers were too superficial to cause the kind of "binding" I felt when manually sliding the axis. So I started from scratch, this time following the setup tips that I had ignored earlier. (C'mon, give me a break already; I've been drooling over the idea of having a 3D printer for years, so naturally I'm gonna throw the thing together so I can make it run as soon as possible!) After loosening the eccentric rollers, I cleaned each one, and wiped down the v-grooves in the extrusions, re-assembled, adjusted per the instructions, and the motion along both axis was smooth as glass. HERE'S WHAT I LEARNED: * Cleaning the parts before assembly will save you time and frustration... (EDIT 12/27/2018)****ORIGINAL TEXT: Roller pressure adjustment is CRITICAL - Too much pressure on the y-axis rollers cause the build plate to flex, which is why so many Ender 3 newbies complain about a "warped build surface"; it's not warped, the rollers are adjusted too tightly...)*** (NOTE ABOUT THE EDIT ABOVE: WRONG AGAIN! -->The build plate is mounted to a carrier plate on springs captured by adjustment screws; no amount of tightening will cause the build plate to warp, but it will flex the carrier plate.) * The belts must not be slack, but don't over-tighten them either; a belt that is too tight will transmit more resonance and provide less damping, exaggerating "cogging" effects, and placing undue side-load on the stepper bearings... Had I followed the above advice instead of making dumb assumptions, I would have been printing the same evening. The Ender 3's performance is impressive once set up and properly maintained, producing a print for me that was every bit as good as an ABS sample Stratasys sent me. My first print used the sample roll of PLA that shipped with the unit just to test the finish quality, but the sample roll only contains enough PLA filament to complete about 14mm of the SAMPLE DOG, so once satisfied with the mechanical operation, I mounted a spool of black ABS, pre-heated the nozzle and bed, started up SAMPLE DOG again. Once again, I was ignoring the advice of experienced owners because I had not enclosed the printer to improve printing with ABS, but after agonizing over feed rate and fan settings I let the Ender 3 print the SAMPLE DOG knowing certainly that I would return to a rat's nest of wiry black ABS threads, but the print was perfect. (EDIT 12/17/2018) Since the initial review, I have printed many different objects, abandoning PLA altogether, I print exclusively using ABS and PETG. IMPROVEMENTS I MADE OVER STOCK: *Cardboard box enclosure... *Upgraded filament driver parts... *Upgraded PTFE Bowden tube... * Upgraded Bowden tube connectors.. * Borosilicate glass bed, with PEI applied to one side... This setup allows me to make excellent ABS prints with no bed-adhesion problems, so the bed temperature can be much lower, preventing "elephant's foot" and other first-layer problems.

**** Update 3/27 - So after a few days of printing, one of my belts started slipping. That caused my larger prints to slip off to side at certain points during the print. And it's getting progressively worse. I've contacted the manufacturer to see what they can do to get me replacement parts, but as of now, my printer is no longer functional. When it was working correctly, it worked well. But now it's just a very large $200 paperweight. See below for my review before the issues. So there is definitely a bit of a learning curve, but with the Creality Ender 3 and the included Creality Slicer program, learning is both fun and easy. I'm on my 3rd day straight of printing various things. I started Thursday with some small ship models, the Friday I tried some different small models, putting several models onto the same print job. I also did 2 tank models for my second print job Friday night. Today I printed an X Wing Tie Fighter combo and am now working on Klingon battle cruiser measuring 105 mm by 144 mm by 27 mm, my biggest print job yet. And most of my results have been very good. I've had some misses too, but thats mostly in the print settings or because I've scaled on objects print size too small. When you use the slicer program, make sure you choose to set the advance printer options. There you can choose nozzle temp, bed temp, print speed, and fill density, and other parameters that can make or break your model builds. To get started printing, go to some place like Thingverse and choose a model you like. I recommend trying smaller models first, with varying degrees of model complexity and detail. Then play with the settings in Slicer to generate the best gcode file for the model you are trying to print. The assembly of the Ender 3 was fairly straightforward and easy but at a relaxed pace will take about an hour to complete. Be careful during assembly that you don't get the cables tangled in the structure as you will need to have slack when plugging the various cables in. You are provided all the hardware you need plus the tools to complete the assembly. You are also provide a scraper for removing models from the print surface, and wire cutters if you choose to use the zip ties to anchor your cables to each other or the frame. Use the enclosed USB to TF card device to install the Creality Slicer software and the manual for the software. You will also use this to load your gcode print files onto. It's easiest to put your models onto the TF card then print off that directly from the printer. I've had this sitting in my cart for quite some time now, and now that I have it I am sorry I waited so long to buy it and get started. It's an amazing deal for a printer that works so well.

Ich bin ein 3D Druck Neuling. Daher war der Ender 3 pro auch mein erster 3D Drucker. Vorerst war ich etwas geschockt über einige schlechte Bewertungen (sowohl auf Amazon, als auch auf YouTube), die über verzerrte Drucker und durchhängende Druckbetten berichten. Jedoch habe ich mich wegen des guten Preises für den Ender 3 pro entscheiden und wurde nicht enttäuscht. Der Aufbau des 3D Druckers war sehr einfach und toll in der Anleitung beschrieben. Auch die Verkabelung war sehr eindeutig in der Anleitung beschrieben. Im Vorfeld habe ich mir schon eine 3D Datei vorbereitet und diese im Prusa Slicer gesliced. Nach dem Zusammenbau habe ich den Drucker an den Strom angeschlossen und die SD Karte mit der G Code Datei eingesteckt. Nun habe ich die Nozzle vorgeheizt um das Filament einzufädeln. Das ging nicht so leicht wie erwartet, ist aber mit ein bisschen Fummelei schnell zu machen. Anschließend habe ich den Druckvorgang gestartet und der Drucker fing mit dem automatischen Nullen der Achsen an und heizte danach das Bett und die Nozzle. WÄHREND DES GESAMTEN DRUCKVORGANG STAND ICH IMMER MIT EINER HAND AM STECKER DES DRUCKERS, UM IHN ZU STOPPEN, WENN ETWAS PASSIERT, DAS SICH NICHT RICHTIG ANHÖRT ODER NICHT RICHTIG AUSSIEHT. Fazit: Ich bin sehr alles in allem sehr zufrieden und habe einen guten Start in den 3D Druck bekommen. Die Druckqualität reicht mir, ist aber wenn es um Feinheiten geht manchmal nicht ausreichend. Für große Drucke reicht es aber alle Mal! Er bekommt von mir klare 5 Sterne, weil er ein super Einsteiger Drucker ist, der mir einen tollen Start in den 3D Druck gewährt hat. Große Empfehlung!

Die Rezension bezieht sich auf die Version Ender 3 Pro V1. Inzwischen gibt es die V2 die klar bevorzugt werden sollte da diese das Silent Mainboard vorinstalliert hat. Als Einsteiger in die 3D Druckwelt habe ich mir dieses Modell gekauft da es recht verbreitet zu sein scheint und dementsprechend einfach Hilfe bei Problemen zu finden sein sollte. Aufgrund diverser Empfehlungen aus dem Netz hab ich den Drucker von Anfang an nicht in der Standardkonfiguration betrieben sondern ein paar Teile ausgetauscht: - Capricorn PTFE Schlauch - Redrex Bowden Extruder Aus dem großen Thingiverse Schatz hab ich mir auch das ein oder andere Upgrade selbst gedruckt. Für die Druckqualität wichtig scheinen so kleine clips zu ssein die ein wackeln des PTFE Schlauchs verhindern. Der Aufbau ist mehr als simpel und sollte niemanden vor eine Herausforderung stellen. Einzige besonderheit die ich auch im Netz nachgoogeln musste: Der Schlitten der x-Achse also wo der Extruder dran ist war nach dem Zusammenbau seeeeeehr wackelig. In der Anleitung nicht erwähnt wird, dass an der unteren Schraube mit der Rolle eine Exzentermutter angebracht ist die gedreht werden kann damit der Schlitten spielfrei läuft. Jetz der wichtigste Punkt überhaupt: Lasst euch zeit beim Einstellen des Bed Levelings. Für einen erfolgreichen druck ist es das A und O. Beim ersten Versuch hab ich nicht richtig aufgepasst und es zu eng eingestellt, sodass die Düse leicht "durch" die Magnetplatte gefahren ist. Zum Glück nur am Rand, aber es wäre ärgerlich es auf die Art kaputt zu machen. Ebenfalls ausdrücklich davon abraten möchte an diese Platte mit dem Spachtel zu gehen, da man jedesmal einen dünnen teil der Oberfläche mit abträgt. Wenn das Bed Leveling stimmt lassen sich Reste oder ähnliches leicht mit dem Fingernagel entfernen. Auf der beiliegenden SD Karte sind 2 oder 3 Beispiele drauf. Es ist Zeitverschwendung diese zu Drucken. Ich habe in meiner Unkenntnis das Sparschweinchen gedruckt. Es dauert nicht nur ewig, die Qualität ist auch absolut mies. Daher lieber etwas schönes aus dem Netz suchen und durch den Cura Slicer schicken, die Qualität dieser Drucker ist einfach nur unfassbar besser. Keine Ahnung warum der Hersteller hier sein Produkt unnötig schlecht macht. Die Lautstärke in der Roh-Version (die es inzwischen wahrscheinlich nicht mehr gibt da durch die V2 abgelöst) ist... nicht Wohnzimmer geeignet. Definitiv nicht! Durch Austausch des Mainboard und diverser Lüfter lässt sich durchaus was rausholen. Da es mein einziger Drucker ist konnte ich die Qualität nur anhand einiger Youtube Videos mit anderen Modellen vergleichen, aber ich selbst bin überaus zufrieden mit dem was der Drucker ausspuckt. Die Bedienung ist sehr leicht und wie erwähnt empfehle ich den Cura Slicer dessen Ender 3 Profil "perfekt" ist. Hatte jedenfalls keinen Aufwand daran herumzufummeln oder Werte anzupassen, das lieferte Out of the Box prima Ergebnisse. Ich habe bislang ausschließlich PLA gedruckt, kann also über andere Materialien nichts sagen. Nachträglich habe ich mir das Creality Board 1.1.5 Silent zugelegt was die Lautstärke der Stepper massiv reduziert. Inzwischen würde ich allerdings zu dem neuen BigTreeTech 2.0 Board raten, da dieses nicht nur Silent Stepper Driver verbaut hat sondern auch einen größeren 32Bit Controller verwendet, der genügend Platz für alle Features der Firmware bietet während die Crealitiy Boards nur die Sanguino atmega1284p verwenden die einfach nicht mehr den benötigten Platz bieten um "alle" Features der Marlin Software unter zu bringen. Ebenfalls habe ich mir Dämpfer für die Motoren gekauft, diese sind aber nur mit SEHR VIEL gebastel am Gerät anzubringen, da die grundlegende Konstruktion nicht für ein vergrößern der Abstände ausgelegt ist. So müssen beispielsweise die aufgepressten Riemenzahnräder weggeflext werden und durch Schraubbare ersetzt werden um Abstände auszugleichen. Diese Modifikation würde ich nicht nochmal machen. Fazit: Würde ich das Gerät wieder kaufen? Ja definitiv. Es sind zwar meiner Meinung nach einige Mods und damit Zusatzkosten nötig, aber da ich gerne Bastel ist das durchaus Willkommen. Die Druckqualität ist meiner Meinung nach hervorragend und die Bedienung kinderleicht, kompliziertester Teil ist das Bed Leveling.

"¡Increíble impresora 3D! La Ender 3 V3 SE es una joya en términos de calidad y facilidad de uso. Montarla fue pan comido gracias a las instrucciones claras, y en poco tiempo estaba produciendo impresiones de alta calidad. Lo que más me sorprendió fue lo fácil que es usarla y lo rápido que se aprende a sacarle el máximo provecho, incluso sin experiencia previa en impresión 3D. La relación calidad-precio es insuperable; esta impresora ofrece mucho más de lo que cuesta. La recomendaría a cualquiera que busque una impresora 3D confiable y asequible para sus proyectos. ¡Totalmente satisfecho con mi compra!"

****UPDATED FEBRUARY 2021**** Most problems have been solved, thanks! They sent me replacement and/or partial refunds for the problematic parts. Thanks a lot! Ender 3 pro is long to build - be sure to watch Youtube Videos as written info isn't enough - but it's fully customizable, affordable and printing quality is amazing. You have to put some efforts into it, beware, but the satisfaction of your 3d printer working perfectly is worth it.

Comprata come regalo per mio figlio, alla fine è stato un regalo anche per me. È una stampante entry level, ma stampa veramente bene con una qualitá che mi ha sbalordito. Non posso fare altro che consigliarla. Ho comprato poi anche sensore per filamento, indispensabile se non vuoi buttare via la stampa se a metá termini il filamento.