CRS N97672 Front Drive Shaft for Jeep Grand Cherokee 2002-2004, L6 4.0L, OEM# 65-9767, 21 Length

The product itself appears to be of good quality, well marked, with serviceable U-joint and nice pliable rubber boots. Once I installed and drove with it, it appears to be balanced properly and did not add any additional NVH other than what's expected when running 4WD over 2WD normally.I know a lot of DIY'ers don't have the experience some of us do so let's make this simple job one we can do well okay? Read on if you aren't familiar with this part or job.1. This is a direct replacement for the Jeep Grand Cherokee OE Front Shaft P52105884AA confirmed. I don't know why there appears to be 6 different shafts they used on these over the course of production, but there are. See attached images to visually confirm, but if your shaft has that part number this is the replacement for it and so many sellers are inconsistent with their part number cross referencing.2. This shaft comes complete, ready to bolt in, but you will want to notice the pictures that compare the hardware removed from factory shaft and the hardware they include with this kit. They replace your 5/16" bolts on the CV joint end(at the center differential) with new Allen bolts. Make sure you reuse the three curved straps that connect bolts in three pairs(see pictures of original hardware). The OE hardware had thread locker applied to the bolts. I recommend you do this also. Not the red 262 or 271 loctite, use the medium blue color 242. On the U-joint(serviceable with pre-installed grease fitting) end which connects to the front differential you want to take special care not to pull off or allow the end caps to come off of the U-joint. If you do the needle bearings inside can fall out and if that happens you have to either get it back in place and together or if you lost a needle bearing you need to replace the U-joint with a new one before installing. I think they really should put some soft of strap around these to prevent accidental removal. Also you will want to replace the straps and bolts with new ones. (these are sold as 1310 U-joint strap kits at the parts store) This kit strangely includes two inside snap rings which I guess some models will need. The receiving end for my U-joint has tiny raised edges that trap the U-joint caps on each end, see pictures. So I didn't need them. What I could have used was the 1310 style U-joint strap/bolt kit. You can find that here on Amazon and it's just a few bucks. I had to go back later and replace mine with new because all I had on hand when I did the job was the old hardware which is when I took the pictures.3. PAY SPECIAL ATTENTION TO THE YELLOW LABEL Pictured! The air must be purged from the boot during install. What it means is you need to connect the CV joint flange with the 6 included bolts just by hand. Support the other end with a bungee cord or tie it up with twine so the shaft isn't "hanging" all its weight on the connected end. With one arm/hand(or a friend) apply pressure to the U-joint end of the shaft pushing towards the back of the vehicle. This will compress the rubber CV joint boot forcing the air out. Now while keeping it compressed tighten the bolts in a alternating fashion like usual, all the way tight. Next remove your bungee or twine support and extend the shaft to join the U-joint end with the U-joint receiver on the front differential. Attach straps with bolts(again with blue 242 medium strength loctite), tighten fully. If you somehow accidentally extend the shaft too far and have to compress it again to get it to fit, I highly recommend taking the cv joint end partially loose before compressing it to let the air out as originally instructed. Pain in the rear I know, but check reviews on this or other similar shafts and see the pictures of brand new boots blown apart after they failed to heed the warning. I can't afford to ruin $200 shafts and waste my time, can you?I think that sums it up. I know when shopping for a part like this it always helps me when people provide detailed instructions and pointers with pictures. Especially with this part because there are so many different part numbers and types for these, just making sure you are actually getting the correct part is a big help.TaDa!

Vibrates like my Wifes Adult toy...

A couple months after installing and everything seems to be good. Saved a ton of money, as the dealer wanted $700+. Install took minimal time. Note: the install step-by-step featured in this comments section was essential. I suggest sticking to it.Also: I was able to use my original hardware on the CV end; the hex-head bolts are a pain.

Transfer case side joint is likely to fail . Mine did in less then a year . Gone thru 2 of these within 2 years .

Worked well

I purchased the rebuild kit first, it worked for a while. When I purchased this It was easy to install and it fit perfectly. I am happy with this item.

Worked great