FR-301 Portable Desoldering Tool

This is an awesome product that works very well. I originally bought the Desoldering Gun S-993A which had a great metal stand. It did work but it didn't suck the solder so well, So i returned and the bought the Hakko fr-301. Please note this the Japan version it was much cheaper then then North American. In Japan is 100 volts and in North America it’s 120 volts. I'm in Canada. It has a 3 prong plug. it works fine. But Some people say it will last one if you keep using it this way. You can convert to 120 volt, just need to replace the one 10 ohm resister with 2 300ohm resisters. Once done this will give you 120 volts. Tones of videos on youtube to show you how to do it. But for $24 I went to the Hakko web site and bought the same board which will already have the two 300omh resisters installed. For a total of $50 bought the parts needed to convert mine to120volts. Look at the pictures i posted. They use the same parts. Even Though I payed $50 for the parts i still saved a lot of money. The Hakko fr-301 comes with a case and a not so great stand. Tools to clean the nozzle and some extra solder Cotton Filtration filters. The tool works and functions well for removing solder off. I used it to remove old bad leaking capacitors from, old consoles, nes, xbox, xbox 360, PSone. Desoldered a bunch of caps really fast. And it leaves a very nice clean hole. I had to download the english instructions. It gets hot very fast and the sucks the solder really well. Pros: It does what its meant to do suck solder fast and Clean. Worth the buy. Cons. The Stand that comes with it is a poorly made, low-quality metal stand that looks like it breaks easily. Only comes with one tip, I did buy a bigger size tip the one that comes with the gun was too small. Overall: A bit pricey even for the japan version but so well worth it. Still Cheaper then then the US 120volts version. anyone who does electronics should have one in their shop or home.

Compré la versión japonesa porque es más barata que la de 120 V. Para poder usarla, tuve que abrir la herramienta y cambiar la resistencia de 10 ohms por dos de 270 ohms (3W). Buscando en internet encontré varios videos donde explican el proceso, aunque la mayoría recomienda usar resistencias de 300 ohms. En mi caso preferí usar de 270 ohms, ya que investigando vi que la bomba de succión trabaja a 98 V, y con las de 300 ohms pierde un poco de potencia. Pero igual si prefieren usar resistencias de 300 Ohms funciona ya que son las rresistencias que vienen con la versión original de fabrica de 120 V.

If you plan to reuse a PCB and/ or do repair work on PCBs, this desoldering tool is a total game changer. I have the pipette-style solder sucker, the one you depress the plunger on and then press the little button to make it POP! and suck up a little bit of solder. And I have a plug in solder sucker with a little ball that you squeeze to create the sucking action on the soldering iron style device. The Hakko desoldering tool blows the other tools away. And I almost did not buy it, because let's face it, this thing seems like a lot of money for a job that does not seem like warrants adding another tool to your work bench. But I was quite wrong, because this tool is sooooo very warranted! It will suck ALL the solder from a board if you want it to and it is quick compared to using the other tool options. It produces a very clean through hole and allows for the most effortless removal of old components that I ever saw. I was able to use this pretty quickly without reading a manual. But look it over and find all the switches on it. The finger trigger is one of three switches. There is also a small push button that actually allows power to the heater--- that small button is on the rear of the pistol handle. And on the very bottom of the handle, there is a dial for setting the heat level of the tool. Removing the capsule on the top of the tool so you can empty out the old solder is a little tricky. Be patient and you will figure it out well enough. The capsule has a rubber-like end to the capsule you pop off to access the interior of the tube and can then dump out the solder you sucked up. The sucking action is intense enough that sometimes little trace legs of old components might get sucked into the metal nozzle. When that occurs, the vacuum action will be reduced and you will need to clean out that metal nozzle and tube. I have raw metal wire sometimes referred to as jewelers wire that is similar in diameter to component legs.... I use a section of the wire to act as a plunger with the desoldering tool heater ON, but with no sucking action engaged. It takes some work and you will likely burn a knuckle or finger til, but that is how I was able to clean obstructions in the nozzle. This is a lengthy description of the tool, I know, but hopefully this will help someone decide on buying it and also figure out how to use it. At this point I would never want to do PCB repair work ever again without this desoldering tool at hand. Like I wrote at the top, this is truly a game changer for me. It is so effective it is almost fun to do the desoldering work which I would never have written about using the other tool options. This is highly recommended if you plan to do desoldering work in any amount. Even swapping out one capacitor or pulling one resistor is enough for me to pull out this desoldering tool for the task at hand.

Excelente equipo funciona súper bien, lo recomiendo esta herramienta me facilita la extracción de soldadura más fácil

These are more expensive than many other manufacturers, but it works perfectly every time and various different components and mechanical devices