Dash Cam Hardwire Kit, Mini USB Hard Wire Kit Fuse for Dashcam

I bought this to replace my original brand name wire kit that I bought with my dash cam. It worked great.

Update April 3. Bought two kits for me and my wife. Installed in Jan. Both Worked perfectly for a couple months, then it started having issues. First the camera would turn on/off intermittently while driving. I thought it was the fuse so replaced that- moved it to the radio so it had constant power. Then the power would cut mid drive, usually as I brake and accelerated. I figured it was a loose connection. After tinkering for a week, I decided to replace the kit with the original cable and charger (plugs into the cig lighter) and works perfectly. Drove it around and no issues. So the problem was the power supply... probably something came loose inside. Either way, 2 months is unacceptable. I did mangle it trying to fix it, and being $10, it’s not worth the hassle to return. -original review- This is for the wiring kit only. Works perfectly, and the instructions on YouTube makes it really easy to follow. Takes about 30-60 minutes depending on how fast you can wedge the wires behind the A-pillar and route it to the fuse box. The fuses are on the cheaper side. I installed one, then decided to move it to another location. When I went to pull the fuse, it fell apart, so I had to go to O Reilly’s and buy a new fuse for a dollar. No biggie- just a bit of a bother. The camera comes with a wedge tool, and having the second one from this kit makes it very easy to walk the wires behind the panel pieces. Very much worth the price to route the cables out of the way, and connect directly to the fuse box. Otherwise, the camera would have to be connected to the lighter/aux for power, and that just looks ugly.

👍🏽👍🏽👍🏽

The installation of this hardwire kit to power a dashcam on a 2011 Honda Ridgeline is straight forward. So far, it’s been working well since I installed it four months ago. For power source I have it wired to a “switched” fuse, where power is only On if the ignition switch is On. Using a hot (Always-On) fuse for power source is NOT recommended. As listed on the description, this kit supposedly has a “Low Voltage Protection” feature that shuts power off if the battery voltage drops down 11.6 Volts. The problem to that is a typical 12V car battery measuring 11.6V is already down to about 20% state of charge, and will more than likely not have enough amperage to run the starter and crank the engine. The battery is practically dead at this point. For dashcams with mini-USB port that you only want recording when driving, off when not, then this 12V to 5V hardwire kit connected to a switched-fuse would be perfect. On the other hand, If you want your dashcam to record non-stop even with the ignition off, this is not the power supply you want. Otherwise, left long enough you're going to need a jump-start.

NOTE: This is not instructions of how to install this product. You do so at your own risk. Have a qualified installer install this as you can do, but not limited to, destroy your car, damage the dash cam or cause a fire. I purchased three of these kits and installed it with the AKASO DL9 Rear View Mirror Dashcam. It comes with a pry tool which is fine but it is on the smaller side. A separate pry tool kit may make it easier. A simple multimeter is also required as you'll need to find power with accessory or ignition (up to you) as will as ground. A screwdriver or drill driver may be necessary as well. Installation was self-explanatory. Before you unpackage the item, visually inspect your car and find where the fuse panel is located. In one car it was near the kick panel on the driver's side and on another it is located inside the glove box. Once I found the fuse box, I mentally made a note of how I was going to route the wiring from the fuse box up to the rear view mirror. This determined what covers I needed to remove. Open your dash cam kit package and verify its contents. I started by probing at the fuse box with the multimeter to find power when accesory is on. Then I used the included fuse taps. The fuse taps unfortunately did not fit on one of my cars so I just hardwired it into one of the fuses itself. I put it on the legs that sends out power, not the one that receives it. It's an added layer of security for myself but still it is NOT RECOMMENDED. Also found ground on a metal on the cars chassis. I used an existing screw that was on the car body near the fuse box. Also to be on the safe side I added an In-Line fuse between the red power wire going from the fuse box into the circuit on the dash cam kit. Used wire cutters to cut off the metal connector on the end of the power wire and then spliced the inline fuse wire in. Soldered and then used heat shrink wrap for wires to cover the splice. The circuit apparently comes with a fuse inside but I didn't want to take any chances. Took off pillars, plastic covers, etc. and routed the wiring up to and through the headliner near the camera. In one car I needed to unscrew the vanity mirror or other screws in order to give space to send the wiring through. This is an excellent product and I have not had any problems

Product did NOT work. The power connection to the camera seems a bit loose. I should have paid attention to the other warnings. Luckily I was able to return it.

This kid was just what I needed to hardwire my dash cam that I just got from Amazon because I started driving with Uber and Lyft I thought it would be smart to get it a dash cam. I wanted it to be hardwired so that it look more professional and that it wouldn't take up all my accessory ports. I got the hardwired kit and was excited to you get it installed. I looked at a lot of YouTube videos and it seemed pretty easy so I said why not give it a go. For three days it rained and I couldn't install it because I don't have a garage to work in so I waited. What's a sub training went to work. Everything went according to plan. The kid even comes with a neat little tool 2 hide the wires in the headliner and help hide the wires are on the a-pillar. I thought that was pretty cool so I started to install it and decided that I was going to go with the 20 amp fuse to the cigarette lighter Port which is what it was originally connected to. So I followed all the instructions and I got the camera to work, which was really cool. Unfortunately the cigarette lighter Port no longer work. So I decided to try the old school method and just put the wire on the fuse and put it in the fuse box. Well that doesn't work too good with these mini fuses as there's not much to grab onto so I went to Walmart and get another fuse tap. I then did the same thing that I did the night before and it worked. So I finally have a hardwire dash cam and and still charge my phones and have the GPS running. So all in all it was a good kid except I do believe that I had a bad fuse tap. It was the only explanation that I could come up with. The rest of the kit it's just fine and the end result is great. Overall after right at three stars because I had to buy a fuse tap that worked.

I have used this kit several times now with no complaints. Having recently purchased a Chevy Colorado I realized my fuses have 3 prongs, which this kit does not include. rovedashcam.com has a 3-prong fuse tap that fits this kit perfectly.

よくありがちな電圧不安定によるミラー型ドラレコの瞬断は今の所発生なし

Use this item from my car and I was pleased with it. Thank you

Being a crafting business owner and jeweler, attention to detail is paramount in both my creations and the tools I use. The Plozoe Dash Cam Hardwire Kit has been a game-changer in my workshop, offering seamless power solutions for my dash cam without any hassle. First and foremost, the kit's mini USB hardwire design ensures a clean and professional installation. With its compact size and discreet appearance, it seamlessly integrates into my car's interior without cluttering the dashboard. This allows me to maintain a sleek and organized workspace, free from unsightly wires or bulky adapters. The inclusion of a variety of fuse tap cables and an installation tool makes setup a breeze. I appreciate the thoughtful addition of these accessories, as they provide flexibility and convenience during the installation process. Whether I'm working on a compact car or a larger vehicle, the assortment of fuse tap cables ensures compatibility and ease of use. The 11.5-foot power cord offers ample length to reach the dash cam from the fuse box, allowing for versatile placement options. This flexibility is especially useful when positioning the dash cam for optimal recording angles while ensuring a tidy and clutter-free setup. Additionally, the kit's compatibility with both 12V and 24V vehicles further enhances its versatility, making it suitable for a wide range of car models. In terms of performance, the Plozoe Dash Cam Hardwire Kit delivers reliable and stable power to my dash cam at all times. The 5V output ensures consistent and uninterrupted operation, providing peace of mind knowing that my dash cam is always ready to capture important footage on the road. Overall, I couldn't be happier with the Plozoe Dash Cam Hardwire Kit. Its sleek design, ease of installation, and reliable performance make it an invaluable addition to my workshop. Whether you're a professional driver or a DIY enthusiast, this kit offers the perfect solution for powering your dash cam with ease and efficiency. Highly recommended for anyone in need of a hassle-free dash cam power solution.

Fácil de instalar

Llegó en un excelente estado solo que la caja llegó aplastada