OLSON SAW SF63510 Coping Saw Frame Deluxe Coping Frame/End Screw, Original

Fantastic coping saw for the money with a great blade sharper than most stock coping saw blades. Pros • No tools needed to tighten or loosen: the thumb screw on the end lets me tighten and loosen completely without needing to reach for a wrench or screwdriver, where as a lot of cheaper coping saws need to be tightened firmly with a tool to stay tight and/or don't have a large enough screw to grab with your fingers. Even if you do end up using a tool, you can still easily get it 90% of the way there with your fingers. • Handle and thumb screw tighten/loosen quickly and hold tight enough without having to make it "super tight" • Handle is comfortable and easy to work with (though some people find it small) • Changing blade is less of a pain than other saws as the screws are long enough to easily swap the blade when loosened - you won't have any trouble with screws/pins falling out because you have to unscrew the end all the way for an untensioned blade to reach (looking at you Irwin "ProTouch"/"Premium Pro") • Blade easily rotates the full 360 degrees, unlike SOME coping saws (*cough* Robert Larson *cough*) • Good stock blade at a course yet comfortable 15tpi. I felt like it did better than my leftover irwin blades (17tpi) or my generic harbor freight blades(15tpi) • Overall clean and simple appearence with a nice smooth wood handle Cons • People with large hands may find the handle to be too small • Tension can be a little bit low when fully tightened, but if this is an issue you can (carefully) stretch the frame very slightly - this adds more than enough. • Some people have said this saw doesn't work well for hardwoods, though I would think that depends mostly on the blade and the user, I haven't used it on anything harder than soft maple.

This saw frame is easy to use and has a deep enough throat for most projects. Make sure to pay attention when ordering replacement blades. The ones recommended are extra fine.

I bought this saw specifically to cope crown and base moulding for our living room. I decided to cope my corner ends instead of mitering them because I know not all corners are 90º and my walls are the old lathe and plaster making them uneven, unlike walls finished with sheetrock. The saw is sturdy and reversing the blade is easily done by adjusting the thumb screw and handle. I found it easier to use holding it with two hands on each end keeping a grip on the tension "levers" so the blade doesn't twist and bind. I found the blade has a tendency to twist if I just held the saw by the handle. The two hand method gave me better control on cuts, especially cutting curves in the moulding. The pictures were taken after using it for the first time. I will even out the bottom portion of moulding and prime it before it attach it. This small piece butts up next to a door casing and corner wall. Picture #3 is what it looks like dry fitted.

It's not that the Olsen coping saw is the best one made, but it is very good at its job for a very reasonable price. For even money I would buy the Knew Concepts coping saw any day; however, at 15 times the price, I'm going to wait until I find that I need to pay that much to get the job done well. So far, the Olsen saw does what I need. In fact, I bought two of them so I could have them set up for different tasks, and I'm still only out about $20. The first Knew Concepts saw I buy with be the fret saw, because it is so far superior to any other fret saw on the market and is about 2/3 the cost of its coping saw sibling. My Olsen coping saws arrived in good condition and were immediately put to work with good effect. I also purchased some Pegas skip tooth saw blades that are very highly regarded, but I haven't used those enough to review them yet. Chris Schwartz's (well-known woodworking author/guru) praises are good enough for me and are much more reliable than my opinions.

Ok, here's my review drill: I've been a woodworker since the mid-70's, served a 4 year apprenticeship, earned my journeyman's carpenter card, left the trade around 1990, and have been a hobbyist (much advanced) ever since. I've built most of the wood furniture in our home. My woodworking is a combo of machine and handtools (in case anyone wonders, I can sharpen handsaws). This is the third Olson coping saw I've purchased-none have broken, but I like to have saws set up for a variety of tasks-one coping is set to cast to the left, one to the right and the third, straight. I don't do much trim work anymore, but this past winter, did use the saw to cope a bathroom full of crown molding. I mostly use the saws for wasting wood in my handcut dovetails. The blades I use are Olson 15 tooth, and work great. You can spend a lot more on a coping saw if you want, but the Olson works great, if you take the time to find the right blade and tension the saw correctly. It's a great buy!

It looks like the saw I need, but unfortunately the experience using it was difficult. The blade can be tightened, and I did so by hand as much as I could. However the blade still persisted on rotating as I tried to cut at any kind of non-perfectly straight angle. It flexed a bit when I expected it not to. But the real problem seemed like it was not the right type of blade for my hardwood. Despite going at it for like 30 seconds using this on my Hard Maple, it barely scratched the surface enough to get a line going. In the end it was completely ineffective for me as a saw.

I read one reviewer's purchase that he put locking washers on his saw. When I got mine, I was disappointed that even with tightening, the blade still turned/moved. I was very worried that I would snap a blade while sawing with the blade moving around. I went out and spent $0.50 on locking washers and put them on my saw. Now, the blade doesn't move after being tightened down; problem solved. Now I am very happy and not longer worried about snapping a blase while in use. I just wish the manufacturer would read this and "upgrade" their saw. It seems like a trivial thing to do to make their product 100% better. I would have deducted 1/2 a star but I guess $0.50 isn't much in the long run.

Bought because it was recommended by woodworking guru Chris Schwarz, it works great. So cheap I got two, one for coarse (10 TPI) blade one for fine (18 TPI). Easy to tighten/loosen both ends of saw without tools. Can rotate blade so it is perfectly straight then tighten it up. Frame is dead straight. Before this I had an Irwin coping saw, more expensive and worse design and frame slightly bent. Pro tips -- buy some Pegas 18 TPI skip tooth blades, very easy to start and turn. I detension my saws after use (handle end only). Rub paraffin wax on blade to make it easier to use. I mount my blades so they cut on the push stroke like a handsaw or panel saw, but there are times when a pull cut is better.

I would buy another just to hang on the wall! I love this tool.

Gute kleine Handsäge. Stabiler schnurgrader Rahmen, lässt sich gut mit dem Griff spannen und entspannen und mit der Rändelschraube feintunen. Ein Sägeblatt wird mitgeliefert, sägt in Holz gut. Ein Stern Abzug, da keine handelsüblichen Stift-Sägeblätter passen, sondern Sägeblätter mit 16,5 cm Länge notwendig sind und diese auf Amazon und im Internet nicht zu finden waren. Erst nach langem Suchen bei Feine Werkzeuge gefunden.

Woodwork carving

Switching blades a bit of a pain.

We need a saw to do some very light cutting jobs of wood piece, and this one is perfect! We are surprised of how neat the edge is after cutting. Easy to store and looks cute, too!