Leviton Decora 120/277-Volt Wall Switch Occupancy Sensor, ODS10-IDE, Black

This is an excellent product (with a big price tag, though). I like this!! We always use a garage-to-family room door for outgoing and incoming traffic. In addition, a secondary refrigerator is sitting in the garage right next to the door. So, I installed an occupancy sensor switch to control the ceiling fluorescent lights for automatic turn-on and off. The first generation occupancy sensor switch was a Leviton's fluorescent light-compatible product (about $20). It worked fine until I decided to replace the old T12 ceiling FLs with more energy-efficient T8 lights and I found the switch was not compatible and would flicker with the new electronic ballasts. After a long Net search, I tried a Brazix [...] occupancy sensor switch (about $12). The Brazix product uses a mechanical relay instead of a semiconductor switch so that it is compatible with any type of load. The very friendly price tag also attracted me. The only and big problem of Brazix was its poor product quality. I bought a 5-switch set, and one of them was defective and would never turn off (Brazix immediately sent me a replacement). It also lacked sensitivity control. The IR sensor was so sensitive that the one installed in a bathroom "detected" warm air from a HVAC heater duct. Finally, only a year and half after installation, the internal mechanical contact of the one installed in the garage got stuck and I had to tap its housing strongly in order to turn the light off. Next, I found a Cooper occupancy sensor product at a local Lowe's store (about $29). The Cooper product claimed compatibility with CFLs and electronic ballasts. But the reality was that the IR sensor that Cooper claimed to have a "self-learning capability" was so unreliable and the claimed delay time was so inaccurate (always doubled) that I returned the product. After the frustrating periods, I resumed a desperate search for an electronic ballast-compatible product and finally came across the ODS10-ID Decora Wall Switch Occupancy Sensor. The product is equipped with five control switches and adjusters. I only had to re-adjust the ambient light knob to the darkest to fit my application. It works great with the fluorescent lights in out garage. I have not tried it with CFLs, but other reviewers have reported very positive results. The biggest problem with the product is its big price tag. But I now have peace of mind that I have a way to replace the soon-to-be failing Brazix switches installed in other locations.

If you're looking for IR sensor switches to automatically turn on lights when you enter the room, then turn them off when the room is empty, get these sensors and don't hesitate to pay a little extra. They require no neutral wire, but still work flawlessly in 2-way arrangement (two switches controlling the same lights--either sensor turns and keeps lights on when motion is present) as well as with circline and other fluorescent lights with newer electronic ballasts. My first purchase was for sensors found at Home Depot. After installing these, I learned that a small amount of current trickles through the switch to run the infrared sensor, and this low current is enough to cause electronic ballast to try to start--hence the HD sensors caused my fluorescent bulbs to flicker even when no motion was present. My second attempt was my own failure to read the details on Leviton IPP15 and IPP0R sensors. I read the "Manual On" as an infrared sensor with a "manual-on" override switch similar to the ones I bought from HD. These DO indeed work with electronic ballasts, but they ONLY come on via the manual button--then turn off when motion in the room stops. When I bought these ODS10-ID switches, install was a breeze and everything worked the first time. I was very pleased. One very minor disappointment is that the inactivity timeout settings allow for either 30 seconds or 10, 20, or 30 minutes. I'd think a 2 or 5 minute timeout would be ideal, but is not an option. They call the 30 second timeout a "test" mode, which is fine for testing switch operation, but we also found it is ideal for things like a laundry or utility room. You don't stand motionless there and if it doesn't sense movement for 30 seconds, the room is likely empty. We have the 2-way switches set for 10 minutes in the basement. Note: NO NEUTRAL IS NEEDED for these, which is impressive and makes installation a breeze. Somehow, they found a way to run the infrared sensor with a little current without tripping the electronic ballasts. But these sensors are great and my wife smiles at me every time she goes into the basement and laundry room with arms loaded with laundry and the lights greet her without effort.

I agree with many of the reviewers that this is a good motion sensor, reasonably configurable, and looks better than many of the motion sensor switches found at home improvement stores. I use several in my home in closets, laundry rooms, and bathrooms, in order to save energy. They are controlling both incandescent and fluorescent lighting without any difficulties. One improvement that I would like to see: the unit needs two separate "hold" times, one for off, and one for on. Let me explain: Once motion is detected, the light remains on for a specified interval. You may want to set this to short for a closet (which you will likely enter only briefly) or long for a bathroom or laundry room where you may be standing in one place for a long time and don't want to have to wave your hands when the light goes out. Once you are finished in the room, you have the option of turning out the light manually by pressing the switch, in order to save energy. If you do this, then further motion will not cause the unit to activate until after the same"hold" interval has expired. This can be annoying if you re-enter the room where someone has manually turned out the lights within the last few minutes, and your motion does not activate the lights as desired, leaving you to turn the lights on manually. The solution is simple, have two separate "hold" intervals. The first one is designed to keep the lights on during periods of occupancy where no motion is detected. Users may often configure this to 10 or 20 minutes. The second interval is designed to allow you to turn off the lights and exit the room without your motion re-activating the lights as you exit. This would usually be configures to something as short as 30 seconds.

First, let me say if I could give it 4.5 stars I would. The half a star lost is the difficulty in remembering/choosing color as the color names are brand specific. HINT: Before you order check out the leviton brand colors and their names for that line. Who can keep track of Almond, Ivory and Lt. Almond? So, I had to exchange my original purchase. BUT, when the replacement came, it was a breeze to install. Took me less than 15 minutes. You need to wire in all 4 color wires to work properly. I installed this is the main floor bathroom as it gets a lot of use and often the light is not turned off by the children and even myself! This light is compatible with the electric balast CFL lights - they will not flicker. This light goes on when you enter the room. You can also push the button to turn it on (even though it goes on when you go in....), but you can also push the button to turn it OFF --- OR if you forget to turn it off, it will turn off after the preset time limit. I set it to the shortest setting because my kids are always in and out of there. The only complaint I received was from my husband who said the light went off too soon (I have it set for 5 minutes). I suppose he'll learn to wave his arm or walk upstairs to use another bathroom. I love it because the kids can walk in there with dirty hands and not dirty that lightplate up anymore too.

Because my wife and kids leave lights on all the time, I decided to "automate" a little and install motion sensor switches all around the house. That way no one would have to worry about turning on/off lights in key areas of the house (bathroom, laundry room, garage). I originally bought the PR180 model... Leviton PR180-1LW Decora 500W Incandescent, 400VA, Passive Infrared Wall Switch Occupancy Sensor, Single Pole and 3-Way, White ...which works (and continutes to work) really well in most places. I have these bad boys installed all over my house. However, I recently upgraded the light fixtures in my garage to T8 (from T12) flourescents. I was suprised when none of these brand new lights would activate with the PR180 motion sensor switch. After a little research I found out that the PR180 doesn't work with electronic ballasts! So...enter the ODS10. This little switch is gauranteed to work with electronic ballasts, and it does that very well. I now have it installed in my garage and it works like a charm. It has a REALLY long range, so the lights go on when I come home from work (as it can "see" across my entire garage). There's nothing better than coming home at night and having your garage lights pop on as you roll in. My advice: For indoor use with "normal" light fixtures, go with the PR180. It works great, and it's less expensive. For electronic ballasts, or rooms where you need deeper motion sensing coverage, go with the ODS10. Note: The first unit I received shorted out in less than a day. Leviton's customer support was very helpful, and Amazon did a speedy return.

Like many of you, I made the mistake of buying a cheap motion wall switch that was not compatible with CFL/LED bulbs. This unit costs a lot more but works perfectly. There are a few different models with slight variations. The ODS10-ID has the following features that I love: (1) single pole switch (needs ground, hot, load wires only), (2) Auto ON and OFF, (2) timeout adjustments: 30 sec/10min/20min/30min, (3) ambient light adjustment-to set the light not to come on when existing light is sufficient, (4) no minimum load requirement, (5) compatible with CFL, LED, electronic and magnetic ballasts. I use this light in my mud room and it works great. No more fumbling for the light when I come in or when I go to put on my shoes. I have it on the 30sec timeout and it works great--turns on fast and stays on while I'm in there. Don't forget to get a Decora switch cover (also on amazon) while you are at it. Also, Make sure to verify which wire in your wall is hot and which is the unpowered load.

Updated to 1 star and sent back, replaced with Lutron MS-OPS-5M I really wanted this to work, everything worked except the light control. In bright day light I got lights ON, after having discussion, several several with Leviton's customer support, and trying several models including a pair from HD that is made in Mexico as oppose to China, it just did not budge. Finally I had to call someone for second opinion but nothing worked. I had to send it back and return to HD, finally found a clue somewhere that Lutron 3-way can work as 3-way with sensors on both sides, although Lutron denies that, but worked. I published the nice diagram as well with that product. At the end of the day I got what I was looking for but unfortunately not with Leviton. Happy to answer any questions -as always forgot to thank Amazon for their amazing support - you guys are AWESOME. ============ Modified: November 4th 2012 With Timeout test settings you can use it for 30 second timeout. Adding the star back to 5 stars now :-) Original Review Greetings I will include the 3-Way wiring connections below, not that complex but does not harm to get it done right the first time. First my first Amazon rant: Home Depot in store AND online is selling this for $5 less, sent a link to Amazon as well but it's still at higher price. Lucky me I got for $39 earlier before Amazon decided to increase the price. No, I did not take the star away for that reason, it's a product review and not the price review anyway. Second the review: I replaced two 3-way switch across the stairway with 2 of these ODS10-id switch and also replaced the plates with Lutron screwless. The Cons/Catch (minor hence 4 stars) While searching the web I found these with a compromise as I needed the timeout to be as least as possible and in this case the minimum is 10 minutes. Second you can not manually switch off these switches unless you switch off both of them, in a "so called" 3-way setup. Pro's Leviton is great company with OK support as compared to Lutron, I am spoiled by Lutron support people or have been little too lucky. - adjustable Blinds in the switch to narrow the occupancy motion field of view - There are three setting dials for Time Out, Range/Sensitivity and finally amount of light - Multi Location compatible, not exactly a three way. (Can't switch off from any location but can trigger "ON" from any) Wiring : Based on Usual Home Wiring Existing Wires ============== Usually in a 3 way setup you will find one of the switches connected to HOT/Power/Line, this is known as HOT SIDE Other side power/line is provided by the HOT Side via the traveller. This side of the switch has a wire that connects directly to the load. This is known as LEG SIDE. How to find: Switch off breaker, disconnect all wires, switch on the breaker and test for line/Hot. Mark the wire. In addition to HOT/Line wire you will have two traveller wires, usually Black and Red. You will need a bare copper for ground as well. For ease let's name the wires with their Colors and function, that are existing at your home HOT SIDE BLACK/MArked: Line/HOT Black - Traveller Wire (goes to LEG SIDE) RED - Traveller Wire (goes to LEG SIDE) Bare Copper - Ground White - Neutral (don't need it here but Load should be connected to this) LEG SIDE Black - LOAD Black - Traveller Wire (goes to HOT SIDE) RED - Traveller Wire (goes to HOT SIDE) Bare Copper - Ground White - Neutral (don't need it here but Load should be connected to this) Back to wiring now HOT SIDE -------- Sensor Wiring --connect to-- House Wiring (Junction BOX) BLACK -- BLACK HOT/LINE + TRAVELLER BLACK (three wires, connect them all) BLUE -- RED TRAVELLER Green -- Bare Copper LEG SIDE -------- Sensor Wiring --connect to-- House Wiring BLACK -- TRAVELLER BLACK + Load Black (three wires, connect them all) BLUE -- RED TRAVELLER Green -- Bare Copper ===================================================== IMPORTANT: DO NOT CONNECT HOT TO THIS LEG SIDE SENSOR ===================================================== DISCLAIMER: (you know the drill) Not responsible for anything, when in doubt call Leviton, still in doubt call "Licensed" electrician. This is working for me. I had several doubts as I got first four as bad units, no LED and that created little too many doubts starting doubting me to start with. Fifth and Sixth are working now. Had to wait Amazon to send replacement, Thanks Amazon, but wait time was killing me. Sandy added another time delay as I wanted to check with Leviton and finally I did. My background: 2 decade old Electronics Engineer and NOT an electrician, Technologist and another computer guy, Family handyman, love Amazon and love Costco - in that order :-) Happy to answer any questions - AS ALWAYS

This motion sensor is ACE but me being a cheapskate and wanting to give open box products a second chance, I bought for about 1/2 price from Amazon's warehouse deals. First unit wouldn't switch off and second unit wouldn't even switch on, both were advertised "like new" but one was missing screws and the other had twisted wire ends. Third time was a charm and even though the wire ends were mangled, it worked and still works perfectly, installed at the laundry room and reliably cuts on when entering and off about a minute after leaving. Wired to three 16 watt LED bulbs (around total 45W).

Bonne qualité bon prix très facile à programmer Merveilleux

Lástima que esté descontinuado

Very good unit. I have installed 5 of these in various spots and they work great. Lots of adjustment to fit any situation.

I replaced a Topgreener occupancy switch with this one because after I installed a "smart" wifi switch next to it, the Topgreener would turn on whenever the smart switch was broadcasting on Wifi (I would tell Siri to turn on the smart switch and then right about the same time the occupancy switch would also turn on). I believe the Topgreener was seeing electrical noise on the input wires and it would get triggered. I got this switch as a replacement and I'm no longer getting false triggers. It was clearly used as the wire nuts were missing and the ends of the wires were all mangled, but it was easy to just cut off the tips of the wires and strip them back a bit.

Good product but quality could be better