CrystaLac Brite Tone Polyurethane Instrument Finish, High Solids Non-Yellowing Super-Hard & Scratch Resistant Clear Coat for Musical Instruments, for Wood Metal Plastic & Glass, 8-Fl.Oz., Clear Gloss

100% pleased. Not overly viscous, no odor and water clean up- what’s not to like? It is a rather pale murky color in the container, really makes you question whether it will be clear once dry.Dried clear and hard. If you’re wanting a shiny professional finish this product will not disappoint. If you’re wanting a thick finish like traditional epoxy you’ll need to apply several coats. IMO this does not make it undesirable considering all the benefits it offers. Dries fast so if you were to bump the piece soon after applying it’s likely you will not ruin the finish. To apply additional coats follow directions.I make items from polymer clay. Polymer clay is notorious for interacting with adhesives and coatings then becoming sticky. This has yet to do this which is wonderful. I can’t use epoxy due to allergic reaction and UV resins are not always the best choice for a piece. I’ve used this for earring pieces and literally dipped the item in then monitored them for the drips and then wiped them off until the excess had run off. This has also been great for painting onto item which are larger. I can’t use apply as much or little as needed, something an epoxy or UV won’t do.

I’ve used this on a couple of guitars. It works well. I’ve noticed some reviewers are pretty scant on the curing time (10 days or less).This is from the Crystalac site:Cure Time: Since it is waterborne and doesn’t rely on harsh chemicals, Brite Tone can take up to 30 days to fully cure.Personally I let it cure for 6 weeks.There is some difference of opinion regarding dry vs wet sanding (it’s like a Ford vs Chevy debate; heavy on opinion but light on facts). The first guitar I wet sanded after 6 weeks with no issues. The second one I dry sanded after 6 weeks and ended up sanding through. I have it now refinished and hanging for another 6 weeks after which I will wet sand it.The general reason for dry sanding is that this is a water based product and the water in the sandpaper could dilute it. To me this is nonsense. If it is cured it is cured. And I (as have others) have found it wet sands just fine.

I use this product to make resin pens, this product works well for me. overtime, I notice a leak at the bottom of the container and it had a crack most of the product was spilled, don't know how that happen but had to throw it away.

I hand finished a guitar body with this product. After proper sanding, grain filling and sealing I applied 10 coats with a sponge brush. allowed 1 day per coat (10 days) dry time for proper curing. Level wet sanded with high grit papers and rubbing compounds. Achieved a mirror like high gloss professional result all by hand. Loved working with this product. Although, I will probably go with 8 coats next time.

This stuff dries hard and crystal clear.BUT - it is best used at 76F or less lest it not level properly, meaning you can see small bubbles and brush tracks.The solution is you have to buy their reducer for use at higher temperatures and it does indeed help.Also you should use their conditioner to clean and prep the surface as anything else may react.Save yourself some grief and just order the reducer and conditioner at the same time. The good news is they are not a lot more. I wish they'd just make a version with the conditioner built in since most of us will be at a temperature higher than 76F.Then you also need to let it cure for 30 days before final sanding and polishing. Non-negotiable as it will be soft and mess up that extremely glossy and pretty as all getout finish.That is the best part about this stuff. It's drop dead gorgeous for a gloss finish. I imagine the matte is every bit as good.

I decided to join the tumbler making culture but I watched many videos to learn the better techniques. I didn't want the danger of using epoxy. I was about to give to another product when I saw a video about Brite Tone. 16 ounces doesn't sound like much, but it goes a long way. I put three thin coats on my tumbler before sanding, then I added another three coats. I love the gloss, especially over glitter. It's a safe product but I use a glove when applying.

Water based. Quick drying and settles well. Greatly reduces the need for level sanding. Oh and the shine is second to none. I doubt I will use anthing else.

My first experience with this was terrible. I had to strip it all off which was easy on flat surfaces because it pulled off in sheets. The corners took many hours to remove this not to mention the damage that had to be repaired after I finally got it off. There are no instructions from the manufacturer, instead they send you to a YouTube video at Highline Guitars. You think they would have suggestions on its application. Where did the guy in the YouTube video get his info? I really do not like trying new products because I work so hard to get to a point of applying a finish to possibly have to strip it all off and start over. The problem was I sanded it too soon and it peeled in one spot. You do need to wait about a week so it can cure properly.That said, I had applied this to another piece and waited a week then sanded and buffed. The final result was stunning. It was very close to nitrocellulose lacquer without the fumes, hassle and long wait time to gas off. I applied 5 coats 2 hours apart, waited a week, sanded with 1000 -3000 then buffed. No respiratory protection needed.