---
product_id: 118537696
title: "Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal"
brand: "superclear"
price: "E£ 48318"
currency: EGP
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 3
category: "Superclear"
url: https://www.desertcart.com.eg/products/118537696-deep-pour-epoxy-resin-liquid-glass-3-gl-kit-2
store_origin: EG
region: Egypt
---

# 2-4 inch deep pour Bubble-free crystal clarity Heat resistant up to 205°F Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal

**Brand:** superclear
**Price:** E£ 48318
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 💧 Pour Deep, Shine Bright — The Ultimate Liquid Glass Experience

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal by superclear
- **How much does it cost?** E£ 48318 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.com.eg](https://www.desertcart.com.eg/products/118537696-deep-pour-epoxy-resin-liquid-glass-3-gl-kit-2)

## Best For

- superclear enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted superclear brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Bubble-Free Finish:** Low viscosity formula ensures a pristine, bubble-less surface every time.
- • **UV & Heat Shielded:** Engineered to resist yellowing and heat damage for lasting brilliance.
- • **Rock-Hard Durability:** Superclear 2.0 cures tough to withstand years of wear and tear.
- • **Food Safe & Eco-Friendly:** Non-toxic, low odor, and VOC-free for safe, versatile creative projects.
- • **Unmatched Depth & Clarity:** Pour up to 4 inches thick with flawless, glass-like transparency.

## Overview

Superclear Deep Pour Epoxy Resin is a premium 3-gallon kit designed for professional-grade 2-4 inch pours. It delivers exceptional clarity with bubble-free, low viscosity flow, and cures to a rock-hard, UV and heat-resistant finish up to 205°F. Made in the USA, food-safe, and ideal for river tables, mold casting, and artistic projects on wood, stone, and metal.

## Description

desertcart.com: Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal : Industrial & Scientific

Review: Great product, a lot to learn about how to use it. - Let me start off by saying this was to make an XMAS present for the wife. To say the least I didn't leave myself enough time and had to rush things. But I bought this product specifically due to its claim that it handles 2-4" pours. As you can see by the image, this was a tricky pour. I was trying to encapsulate a 3-dimensional object, that to say the least had mass and buoyancy which made it tricky. It wasn't wasn't something I could really do in multiple pours very well because of it's shape. Technically I think I probably could have done it in two pours, but I didn't have time. So I watched tons if videos, read the directions dozens of times, and tried to do my best. I've never done an epoxy mold, let alone one that had all the tricks this one had. it's not visible in the picture but there's actually a piece of all thread going through the bottom of the mold to secure the project to the walnut base. That alone was difficult. I started by creating a mold, I used melamine laminated particle board, partially because it's easy to cut, secure, and provides a pretty consistent surface when done properly. I had also hoped that because melamine is fairly non-porous, that it would help prevent the epoxy from sticking. I silicon caulked all seams and the all thread that was drilled through the side, into the base. The lit tree inside was zip tied to the all thread, and there was a piece of wood across the open top of the mold that I fed the wiring through, to hold it in place and securely. I also bought a pretty expensive epoxy release spray on desertcart that I covered the inside of the mold with, hoping it would help remove the wood when the product was cured. Most of this prep work was worth it, but I will say I don't think the release agent did any good. Based on the directions, I spent a lot of time creating the right environment for the cure. I hung plastic in my utility room and worked hard to effectively create a "paint booth" in an effort to be able to control the ambient temps. Where I am, the combustion air coming into my utility room was between 20F and 45F during the cure, so I put a space heater in the paint booth. There's no where else in the house I could have done this (especially since it was a gift and wife couldn't see it), and my garage often dips below freezing every night in the winter. On pour day, I heated the bottles using a heating pad and electric blanket, I mixed no more than 1G at a time, and followed the directions for length of mix, moving between buckets, etc. In general, the pour went pretty well. But almost immediately, some started leaking out of the hole for the all thread, even with caulk, so I'm guess it moved enough that it cracked the caulk. I scrambled to fix that with more caulk and even some good ol flex seal. This is where things went haywire for me. I paid so much attention to keeping the space between 72F and 75F, that I didn't pay attention to really the most critical thing, which wasn't really heating the product, but dissipating the heat from the reaction. I should have known, and I think the directions lacked some emphasis on heat during a deep pour. My pour was 3.5" deep. The heat it generated overnight was so much, that it cracked, created several crevices. So the next morning, when I found these, of course I kind of panicked, but I decided to work with it. I cleaned all of the surfaces as much as possible, did some light sanding, and used alcohol to clean it. I also vacuumed the cracks. I then mixed more epoxy, and started to fill the cracks and crevices. And boom, more issues. It turned out the expansion/contraction broke the caulk seals in the mold. So now it started leaking out a bunch. So I scrambled with more flex seal and caulk, trying to seal it up enough to contain the second pour. Surprisingly the second and third pours turned out fine. the product matched fine, of course you can still see them but they actually add a lot of character to the finished product. Structurally I think it's fine as well. I gave it 72hours before touching the mold, and then started to break it apart. This is where I don't think the mold release stuff did anything, the melamine was stuck to he epoxy like mad. I basically had to chisel, scrap, and sand the heck out of thing to get that off. Which basically meant I had to resurface the whole thing. That process was miserable, I used everything from a 40grit floor sander, to an orbital sander, to a dremel, and oscillating tool, with sand papers from 40 grit to 1000 grit. I used automotive rubbing compound and polish, as well as a buffing wheel. The surface still isn't very "polished" but it looks pretty good. In summary, my lessons learned were: - this can definitely be done by a novice. But it's not "easy" - for deep pours, heat control is in my opinion more important than keeping it warm - don't trust the "release agents" - when doing a mold that has an open top, remember to plan for that to be the finished side, it was much more polished and natural than the sides that were enclosed in the mold - Not really sure what else to have used for a mold, I though the melamine laminated wood was a great idea. I couldn't very well have used a silicon mold or something for a project this custom - polishing is hard work. I even tried to use diamond abrasives I use on tile and glass, didn't really work - the product worked well, it was only my misguided use that didn't make it perfect - finally, double and triple seal seams.
Review: Its all about the BASE. The epoxy is remarable. - Do you know how to pour epoxy deep?. Then you will be entirely satisfied with this product. I built a live edge vanity top with tile inlay didn't even need the full capabilities of the epoxy. What a pleasure to work with. IF you are new to epoxy. This is a great starting point product. word of advice to all you who are epoxy pouring your ideas. FOLLOW THE DIRECTION with relaxed intensity; it is a must to be successful. Dust free and temperature controlled environment is also must for open surface pours. Its is also great for bowl mold forming for you turners out their looking to improve your game. you'll never need to pour beyond it maximum with a bowl form mold, and its great in incorporating pigment and mica powder. The products of your pours will be/are going to be stunning and out standing in appearance. YOU will be satisfied with this purchase. the clarity of glass when curing is compete. 72hrous is minimum time to perfection. DON'T rush. Mix twice and mix twice as long as the manufactures recommendations. two measuring cups/buckets for A & B separately, then 5 min each in two diff buckets when mixing, add pig and mica to first mixing bucket, pour to 2nd bucket and mix again, pour, and monitor for bubbles for at least the first 8 - 10 hrs on open surface pours or not using a pressure pot. Did I mention DO NOT RUSH!. Enjoy your pours and limitless possibilities. And about the BASE. make sure your forms will hold water. Pointless if epoxy can not be entirely contained within a form or mold - hint: 3M plastic masking film will sorta peal off once epoxy is cured but with difficult places in folds or creases. so you can line your forms with it to make waterproofing…. Smooth side of FRP board makes a great bottom to build your forms from. Addendum: The shipping is as quit as the system can move. I ordered at 5:30 their time so the business was closed. I checked next morning and product was already in shipping and on the way. The company cares about their products and provides the services and turn around you’d expect from a great company. Beyond all those great things to get you a great product total satisfaction is their goals.

## Features

- TRUE DEEP POUR: Experience the ease of 2-4 inch pours with our advanced Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy. Perfect for river tables and large-scale projects, this feature offers unmatched depth and clarity, making it a game-changer in the epoxy resin market.
- UNMATCHED DURABILITY: Crafted to endure, Superclear 2.0 sets the standard for strength. Its rock-hard curing provides exceptional structural integrity, ensuring your creations withstand years of wear and tear without compromising quality.
- BUBBLE-LESS TECHNOLOGY: Say goodbye to imperfections with our low viscosity Liquid Glass Epoxy. Its unique formulation allows bubbles to escape easily during curing, delivering a flawless, crystal-clear finish every time.
- MADE IN THE USA: With over 60 years of expertise, Fiberglass Coatings, Inc. in Saint Petersburg, FL, proudly presents this 100% American-made epoxy. Our commitment to quality and innovation reflects in every batch we produce.
- SIMPLE & VERSATILE: Designed for both beginners and professionals, our epoxy resin is user-friendly and adaptable to various creative projects. From intricate river tables to substantial mold castings, its ease of use and clarity are unparalleled.
- FOOD GRADE SAFE: Our epoxy resin is formulated with safety in mind. It is low odor and VOC free, making it a safer choice for both the user and the environment.
- HIGHEST UV HEAT RESISTANCE: Our Superclear 2.0 Liquid Glass Deep Pour Epoxy Resin is engineered with top-tier UV resistance to prevent yellowing. Can take Up to 205F Heat Exposure.

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B07PXFDBVR |
| Best Sellers Rank | #6,429 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing ( See Top 100 in Arts, Crafts & Sewing ) #74 in Sculpture Molding & Casting Products |
| Brand | Superclear |
| Color | Clear |
| Date First Available | March 20, 2019 |
| Item Form | Liquid |
| Item Package Quantity | 1 |
| Item Volume | 3 Gallons |
| Item Weight | 27 pounds |
| Item model number | SUVELAM |
| Manufacturer | FGCI |
| Material | Epoxy Resin |
| Number of Pieces | 3 |
| Package Information | Bottle |
| Product Dimensions | 3.94 x 3.94 x 3.94 inches |
| Special Feature | Dries Clear, Food Grade Compliant, Heat Resistant, Non Toxic, Water Resistant |
| Specific Uses For Product | Deep pour epoxy resin |
| UPC | 883786322272 |
| Unit Count | 384.0 Fluid Ounces |
| Viscosity | Low |
| Viscosity Level | Low |
| Water Resistance Level | Water Resistant |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Superclear
- **Item Form:** Liquid
- **Material:** Epoxy Resin
- **Special Feature:** Dries Clear, Food Grade Compliant, Heat Resistant, Non Toxic, Water Resistant
- **Specific Uses For Product:** Deep pour epoxy resin

## Images

![Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61iKgTm1usL.jpg)
![Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/719F+fEvkeL.jpg)
![Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81XYphSgYlL.jpg)
![Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/918GMxC0SML.jpg)
![Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91IUcHIp3iL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Size** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: How big of a pour does the kit make?  Looking to make a kitchen table**
A: That would depend on if you are pouring over anything or a straight pour, a river table or pure epoxy, so you need to give more information

**Q: Have a table 55in long 35 wide 3in deep would a 3 gallon kit give me enough..?**
A: Here’s my take. 

55” long x 3” wide river x 3” deep

55x3x3 / 61 = 8.11 liters or 2.14 gallons

**Q: How soon can it be ised on a bar top?**
A: it says how many days in the directions . it depends on how deep  of a pour.

**Q: Can you sand this product**
A: Once the product is hard, then absolutely.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great product, a lot to learn about how to use it.
*by J***0 on December 31, 2020*

Let me start off by saying this was to make an XMAS present for the wife. To say the least I didn't leave myself enough time and had to rush things. But I bought this product specifically due to its claim that it handles 2-4" pours. As you can see by the image, this was a tricky pour. I was trying to encapsulate a 3-dimensional object, that to say the least had mass and buoyancy which made it tricky. It wasn't wasn't something I could really do in multiple pours very well because of it's shape. Technically I think I probably could have done it in two pours, but I didn't have time. So I watched tons if videos, read the directions dozens of times, and tried to do my best. I've never done an epoxy mold, let alone one that had all the tricks this one had. it's not visible in the picture but there's actually a piece of all thread going through the bottom of the mold to secure the project to the walnut base. That alone was difficult. I started by creating a mold, I used melamine laminated particle board, partially because it's easy to cut, secure, and provides a pretty consistent surface when done properly. I had also hoped that because melamine is fairly non-porous, that it would help prevent the epoxy from sticking. I silicon caulked all seams and the all thread that was drilled through the side, into the base. The lit tree inside was zip tied to the all thread, and there was a piece of wood across the open top of the mold that I fed the wiring through, to hold it in place and securely. I also bought a pretty expensive epoxy release spray on Amazon that I covered the inside of the mold with, hoping it would help remove the wood when the product was cured. Most of this prep work was worth it, but I will say I don't think the release agent did any good. Based on the directions, I spent a lot of time creating the right environment for the cure. I hung plastic in my utility room and worked hard to effectively create a "paint booth" in an effort to be able to control the ambient temps. Where I am, the combustion air coming into my utility room was between 20F and 45F during the cure, so I put a space heater in the paint booth. There's no where else in the house I could have done this (especially since it was a gift and wife couldn't see it), and my garage often dips below freezing every night in the winter. On pour day, I heated the bottles using a heating pad and electric blanket, I mixed no more than 1G at a time, and followed the directions for length of mix, moving between buckets, etc. In general, the pour went pretty well. But almost immediately, some started leaking out of the hole for the all thread, even with caulk, so I'm guess it moved enough that it cracked the caulk. I scrambled to fix that with more caulk and even some good ol flex seal. This is where things went haywire for me. I paid so much attention to keeping the space between 72F and 75F, that I didn't pay attention to really the most critical thing, which wasn't really heating the product, but dissipating the heat from the reaction. I should have known, and I think the directions lacked some emphasis on heat during a deep pour. My pour was 3.5" deep. The heat it generated overnight was so much, that it cracked, created several crevices. So the next morning, when I found these, of course I kind of panicked, but I decided to work with it. I cleaned all of the surfaces as much as possible, did some light sanding, and used alcohol to clean it. I also vacuumed the cracks. I then mixed more epoxy, and started to fill the cracks and crevices. And boom, more issues. It turned out the expansion/contraction broke the caulk seals in the mold. So now it started leaking out a bunch. So I scrambled with more flex seal and caulk, trying to seal it up enough to contain the second pour. Surprisingly the second and third pours turned out fine. the product matched fine, of course you can still see them but they actually add a lot of character to the finished product. Structurally I think it's fine as well. I gave it 72hours before touching the mold, and then started to break it apart. This is where I don't think the mold release stuff did anything, the melamine was stuck to he epoxy like mad. I basically had to chisel, scrap, and sand the heck out of thing to get that off. Which basically meant I had to resurface the whole thing. That process was miserable, I used everything from a 40grit floor sander, to an orbital sander, to a dremel, and oscillating tool, with sand papers from 40 grit to 1000 grit. I used automotive rubbing compound and polish, as well as a buffing wheel. The surface still isn't very "polished" but it looks pretty good. In summary, my lessons learned were: - this can definitely be done by a novice. But it's not "easy" - for deep pours, heat control is in my opinion more important than keeping it warm - don't trust the "release agents" - when doing a mold that has an open top, remember to plan for that to be the finished side, it was much more polished and natural than the sides that were enclosed in the mold - Not really sure what else to have used for a mold, I though the melamine laminated wood was a great idea. I couldn't very well have used a silicon mold or something for a project this custom - polishing is hard work. I even tried to use diamond abrasives I use on tile and glass, didn't really work - the product worked well, it was only my misguided use that didn't make it perfect - finally, double and triple seal seams.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Its all about the BASE. The epoxy is remarable.
*by B***R on July 23, 2025*

Do you know how to pour epoxy deep?. Then you will be entirely satisfied with this product. I built a live edge vanity top with tile inlay didn't even need the full capabilities of the epoxy. What a pleasure to work with. IF you are new to epoxy. This is a great starting point product. word of advice to all you who are epoxy pouring your ideas. FOLLOW THE DIRECTION with relaxed intensity; it is a must to be successful. Dust free and temperature controlled environment is also must for open surface pours. Its is also great for bowl mold forming for you turners out their looking to improve your game. you'll never need to pour beyond it maximum with a bowl form mold, and its great in incorporating pigment and mica powder. The products of your pours will be/are going to be stunning and out standing in appearance. YOU will be satisfied with this purchase. the clarity of glass when curing is compete. 72hrous is minimum time to perfection. DON'T rush. Mix twice and mix twice as long as the manufactures recommendations. two measuring cups/buckets for A & B separately, then 5 min each in two diff buckets when mixing, add pig and mica to first mixing bucket, pour to 2nd bucket and mix again, pour, and monitor for bubbles for at least the first 8 - 10 hrs on open surface pours or not using a pressure pot. Did I mention DO NOT RUSH!. Enjoy your pours and limitless possibilities. And about the BASE. make sure your forms will hold water. Pointless if epoxy can not be entirely contained within a form or mold - hint: 3M plastic masking film will sorta peal off once epoxy is cured but with difficult places in folds or creases. so you can line your forms with it to make waterproofing…. Smooth side of FRP board makes a great bottom to build your forms from. Addendum: The shipping is as quit as the system can move. I ordered at 5:30 their time so the business was closed. I checked next morning and product was already in shipping and on the way. The company cares about their products and provides the services and turn around you’d expect from a great company. Beyond all those great things to get you a great product total satisfaction is their goals.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ FGCI delivers! Perfect product and worth the price USA made.
*by M***. on July 12, 2025*

I did a lot of research before buying and this is what I loved. Has the UV protection, safe around food and just like it says poured crystal clear. Made in the US was important because of quality control and the manufacture answers question quickly. Doesn’t smell toxic. Super functional and easy to mix. Harden and adhered perfectly no bubbles at all. Dried faster than expected and was the perfect pour for the clear effect I wanted allowing the wood’s color to stay perfect. They shipped fast and all my orders have come early.

## Frequently Bought Together

- Deep Pour Epoxy Resin Liquid Glass 3 GL Kit, 2-4 inch Super Clear Amazing Flow Casting Resin Kit, High Temp Heat UV Resistant Food Safe Epoxy, Bubble Free Low Viscosity Cast & Coat Stone Wood Metal
- Table Top Epoxy Resin Superclear 2 Gallon | 256 oz Kit, Anti-Yellow Highest UV Impact Resistance, Food Safe Epoxy, Crystal Clear Gloss, Bubble Free, Bar & Surface Coat, Tumblers, Wood, DIY
- Rolio Premium Mica Powder Pearlescent Color Pigment - Art Set for Epoxy Resin - for Soap Making, Nail Polish, Lip Gloss, Eye Shadow, Slime & Candle Jars - 10g, 24 Jars - (Original Set)

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---

*Product available on Desertcart Egypt*
*Store origin: EG*
*Last updated: 2026-02-28*