---
product_id: 20958489
title: "Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine"
brand: "lisle"
price: "E£ 13523"
currency: EGP
in_stock: true
reviews_count: 8
category: "Lisle"
url: https://www.desertcart.com.eg/products/20958489-lisle-65700-broken-plug-remover-kit-for-ford-3v-engine
store_origin: EG
region: Egypt
---

# durable blow molded storage case 3-step precision extraction unique porcelain puller & pusher Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine

**Brand:** lisle
**Price:** E£ 13523
**Availability:** ✅ In Stock

## Summary

> 🔩 Crack the code on broken plugs — master your Ford 3V engine like a pro!

## Quick Answers

- **What is this?** Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine by lisle
- **How much does it cost?** E£ 13523 with free shipping
- **Is it available?** Yes, in stock and ready to ship
- **Where can I buy it?** [www.desertcart.com.eg](https://www.desertcart.com.eg/products/20958489-lisle-65700-broken-plug-remover-kit-for-ford-3v-engine)

## Best For

- lisle enthusiasts

## Why This Product

- Trusted lisle brand quality
- Free international shipping included
- Worldwide delivery with tracking
- 15-day hassle-free returns

## Key Features

- • **Compact Blow Molded Case:** Keeps your kit organized and ready for emergency repairs or routine maintenance.
- • **Self-Tapping Puller Tech:** Grips and extracts stubborn metal tips that resist conventional tools.
- • **Innovative Porcelain Puller:** Snaps onto broken plug terminals for clean porcelain removal every time.
- • **Effortless 3-Step Extraction:** Seamlessly remove seized & broken spark plugs without engine damage.
- • **Porcelain Pusher for Tough Spots:** Pushes off porcelain fragments stuck deep in spark plug tips with finesse.

## Overview

The Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit is a specialized 3-step toolset designed for Ford 3V engines to safely and efficiently extract seized or broken spark plugs. Featuring a patented porcelain puller, porcelain pusher, and self-tapping puller, it tackles even the toughest plug failures with precision. Packaged in a durable blow molded case, this kit is a must-have for DIY mechanics and professionals aiming to avoid costly repairs and downtime.

## Description

A Three Step Kit for Removing Spark Plugs that have Seized in the Engine Head and Broken. Includes a unique Porcelain Puller Tool that snaps onto the terminal of a broken spark plug to pull the porcelain out. Also includes a Porcelain Pusher for when the porcelain breaks off in the spark plug tip and a Self-Tapping Puller to remove the seized metal tip. Comes in a blow molded plastic case for storage. Order Lisle 65710 for the Porcelain Puller individually, or 65730 for the Porcelain Puller, Right Handed Nut and Housing.Patent # 9,539,712*The #65620 Puller Screw is not covered under warranty as it is a wearable item.*

Review: A must have for any Triton owners - I don't usually review products on here, because I am to picky and generally consider my self a very tough, hard to please consumer. This product, however, deserves my time. 2006 F150 5.4 Triton, 98954 miles, original plugs. It started to miss, then rough idle, then slight difficulty starting with change outdoor temp (getting colder). Then the truck just wouldn't start. I figured it was the plugs, Was shocked to find the plugs cost like $10 each...I started to remove the plugs using a deep well 9/16 socket on 1/2 drive. Engine was cold, cracked the plugs loose, filled each spark plug hole with PB Blaster (wish I would have used carb cleaner instead, better on carbon). A couple hours later I went to work. I removed two on the left bank, with two being difficult, so I let em soak. I removed two from the other side as well, letting two more difficult ones soak. I actually did something really stupid, I said out loud, "I don't know what the big deal is, these plugs aren't any trouble". Yep, you guessed it, the next four failed. Three came out ceramic in tact, leaving the metal shield behind, while one came out with electrode in tact, leaving the bottom of the ceramic and shield behind. I now decided to order the plugs and the Lisle tool. It was absolutely cheapest here. It arrived and I read the instructions. The pictures were the most helpful. The three shields came out first try, no problem, The thing works exactly as advertised and is a nice little engineering wonder, well thought out, yet simple...the same kind of though process was used to design this tool as I would have liked to have seen by the Ford engineers when the designed the 3V heads...anyway... The fourth plug with the ceramic behind was a little tougher. I used the "pusher" to push the remaining ceramic to the "strap" at the bottom of the plug. I then tried unsuccessfully 4x to pull it out. The carbon was just two strong. and the remaining ceramic in the shield just didn't leave me enough real-estate to sink the threads into. I was forced to push the ceramic down until it broke the strap and gained enough real-estate for the threads to really grab. This was accomplished by using a piece of rod longer than the included Pusher that makes contact with the ceramic. Once that was done, it grabbed and pulled the ceramic and shield right out. Dont forget to use a dab of grease on the threads to aid in cutting into the shield and to catch the small metal pieces that are created. Also, this is not a "bull in china shop" type job, take your time, use finess not muscle. Good luck. Great tool, Great Price, Quick delivery. Thanks desertcart.
Review: Great Tool For Extracting Ford 3 Valve Engine Broken Plugs, Easy To Use and It WORKS! - Update: This first pragraph is a more to the point summary of the below review. I used the Lisle tool to replace 5 broken plugs out of 8 on a 2007 Ford F150 5.4L at 94K. It was quite literally a must to remove the broken plugs and worked flawlessly. The following paragraphs may be helpful if your having an issue with your broken plugs: Replaced the plugs on a well maintained 2007 F150 5.4L at 94K and followed Ford's TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on plug removal to the letter (actually above and beyond by soaking the plugs in aerokroil penetrating oil 18+ hours after a 1/4 loosen turn) and 5 of the 8 plugs still broke. Prior to, I was really stressing over doing this job after reading all the horror stories from Ford owners of plugs breaking . So just in case I bought the Lisle tool and had it there ready to go. Boy I'm I glad I did! I'm a weekend mechanic, I don't do it for work, fun or a hobby....I do it when the truck/car needs fixed and it's within my technical and tool capabilities. This tool is well within mine and it will be for most people. If you change your own spark plugs you can use this tool. One note is make sure you have a 'Deep Socket 15/16 Socket', you HAVE to have this to use the tool for the extracting part.. A standard 15/16 socket won't do, it's got to be a deep well socket (Guess who had to degrease themselves enough to go to the store to get a socket!). The Lisle tool worked flawlessly but there's a few points you need to address if you use it. Having an air compressor with a long angled attachment to blow any penetrating oil or broken ceramic from cylinders is highly recommended. I used the Hiltex® 31111 24" Air Blow Gun with Angled Aluminum Nozzle | Standard 1/4-inch NPT Air Inlet that I bought on desertcart and it worked great. BE CAREFUL when you use the aerokroil oil. If you get too much down into the actual cylinder it can cause MAJOR problems with engine 'hydro lock'. So if you soak the plugs with the oil, be SURE that you get the excess oil out of the plug port before you try to extract the plug. I used a DIY contraption (it was a 3/4" diameter flex hose taped to the vac hose) on my shop vac to suck out the excess oil and then blew it out with the air hose for safe measure. Then, when the plugs were finally out, I repeated that process getting any exceess oil out of the cylinders before putting the new plugs in. Also, there's 2 different ways the plugs break and are described in Ford's TSB as 'Mode 1' and 'Mode 2'. Mode 1 is where the plug just snaps and you bring out the top half of the plug in your socket. That's "good", just go straight to the Lisle tool to extract it. But with me, mine broke off in Mode 2, where the whole plugs turns but is still stuck in the engine. Then in order to use the Lisle tool you have to get that top portion of the plug unattached from the rest of the plug. That was my pain, trying to get a pair of needle nose pliers, with angled heads or not, in some of those plug holes. It was impossible to disengage the top portion the plug in "Mode 1" with the pliers in 2 of the cylinders. So in those 2 cylinders I retightened and loosened the plugs several times, with a lot of wiggling it around between, until the top of the plug finally disengaged. In addition, I used the Sunex 884505 3/8-Inch Drive 9/16-Inch Extra Deep Spark Plug Socket, available on desertcart and recommend it. Thank goodness for the Lisle tool, it's a serious 5 star tool, but I'm not happy with Ford....at all. If this is just too much for you to tackle and you decide to take the chance with a mechanics shop, be sure to Google the Ford Spark Plug Settlement. It explains the class action settlement against Ford for this problem. It explains their reimbursement procedure for over expenses you incur for having the plugs changed out. There's forms you can download to complete the process. It was a slap in the face to me because it's percentage based but if your stuck and can't do this job yourself make sure you use it. One last note. If you have the money and your approaching 100K go ahead and replace the coil packs with a quality product. They sit on top of the plug and have to be removed anyway to take the plugs out so no extra time. On my previous Ford 5.4L they started going out 1 by 1 after 100K so this time I just took care of it at the same time. Good Luck!

## Features

- A Three Step Kit for Removing Spark Plugs that have Seized in the Engine Head and Broken.
- Includes a unique Porcelain Puller Tool that snaps onto the terminal of a broken spark plug to pull the porcelain out.
- Also includes a Porcelain Pusher for when the porcelain breaks off in the spark plug tip and a Self-Tapping Puller to remove the seized metal tip.
- Comes in a blow molded plastic case for storage.
- Includes a unique Porcelain Puller Tool that snaps onto the terminal of a broken spark plug to pull the porcelain out
- Also includes a Porcelain Pusher for when the porcelain breaks off in the spark plug tip and a Self-Tapping Puller to remove the seized metal tip
- Comes in a blow molded plastic case for storage
- Order Lisle 65710 for the Porcelain Puller individually, or 65730 for the Porcelain Puller, Right Handed Nut and Housing

## Technical Specifications

| Specification | Value |
|---------------|-------|
| ASIN | B00SQ4FSN6 |
| Best Sellers Rank | #30,125 in Automotive ( See Top 100 in Automotive ) #71 in Spark Plug & Ignition Tools |
| Brand | Lisle |
| Brand Name | Lisle |
| Compatible with Vehicle Type | UTV |
| Core Material | Copper |
| Customer Reviews | 4.5 out of 5 stars 4,134 Reviews |
| Global Trade Identification Number | 00083045657002 |
| Included Components | Kit |
| Item Type Name | Plug Remover Kit |
| Item Weight | 1.89 Pounds |
| Manufacturer | Lisle |
| Manufacturer Part Number | 65700 |
| Manufacturer Warranty Description | Lifetime |
| Thread Size | 14mm |
| Top Material Type | Metal |
| UPC | 083045657002 |
| Unit Count | 1.0 Count |
| Vehicle Service Type | UTV |

## Product Details

- **Brand:** Lisle
- **Core Material:** Copper
- **Thread Size:** 14mm
- **Top Material Type:** Metal
- **Vehicle Service Type:** UTV

## Images

![Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine - Image 1](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71TGnum-I2L.jpg)
![Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine - Image 2](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91v6kG8VFVL.jpg)
![Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine - Image 3](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81GqeSyThXL.jpg)
![Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine - Image 4](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91xMSC4o-HL.jpg)
![Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine - Image 5](https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/91UpNi-0-AL.jpg)

## Available Options

This product comes in different **Style** options.

## Questions & Answers

**Q: How many lines are there around the extractor? I need the 3rd or the 4th generation revised tool.**
A: I purchased mine from Amazon around Oct 2015 and it had 4 lines, which I believe means its a 4th generation.

**Q: Does this work on the 2006 mustang gt 4.6l  engine**
A: Yes... the pre 2008 mustangs have the exact same problem. 4.6 l engine- plugs break! Going through this now with mine!

**Q: Will this work for a 2002 mazda mpv with the 3.0l v6? i know this is basically a ford engine. thank you.**
A: This tool is specifically used to extract (broken) spark plugs designed for the Ford Triton engine. Look up Ford Triton Spark Plug and you'll see what they look like. Much different than the ones for the MPV.

**Q: Is this the newest version?**
A: Another version is the Lisle 65700.  It includes a unique Porcelain Puller Tool that snaps onto the terminal of a broken spark plug to pull the porcelain out. Also includes a Porcelain Pusher for when the porcelain breaks off in the spark plug tip and a Self-Tapping Puller to remove the seized metal tip. Comes in a blow molded plastic case for storage.

## Customer Reviews

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ A must have for any Triton owners
*by J***K on December 7, 2012*

I don't usually review products on here, because I am to picky and generally consider my self a very tough, hard to please consumer. This product, however, deserves my time. 2006 F150 5.4 Triton, 98954 miles, original plugs. It started to miss, then rough idle, then slight difficulty starting with change outdoor temp (getting colder). Then the truck just wouldn't start. I figured it was the plugs, Was shocked to find the plugs cost like $10 each...I started to remove the plugs using a deep well 9/16 socket on 1/2 drive. Engine was cold, cracked the plugs loose, filled each spark plug hole with PB Blaster (wish I would have used carb cleaner instead, better on carbon). A couple hours later I went to work. I removed two on the left bank, with two being difficult, so I let em soak. I removed two from the other side as well, letting two more difficult ones soak. I actually did something really stupid, I said out loud, "I don't know what the big deal is, these plugs aren't any trouble". Yep, you guessed it, the next four failed. Three came out ceramic in tact, leaving the metal shield behind, while one came out with electrode in tact, leaving the bottom of the ceramic and shield behind. I now decided to order the plugs and the Lisle tool. It was absolutely cheapest here. It arrived and I read the instructions. The pictures were the most helpful. The three shields came out first try, no problem, The thing works exactly as advertised and is a nice little engineering wonder, well thought out, yet simple...the same kind of though process was used to design this tool as I would have liked to have seen by the Ford engineers when the designed the 3V heads...anyway... The fourth plug with the ceramic behind was a little tougher. I used the "pusher" to push the remaining ceramic to the "strap" at the bottom of the plug. I then tried unsuccessfully 4x to pull it out. The carbon was just two strong. and the remaining ceramic in the shield just didn't leave me enough real-estate to sink the threads into. I was forced to push the ceramic down until it broke the strap and gained enough real-estate for the threads to really grab. This was accomplished by using a piece of rod longer than the included Pusher that makes contact with the ceramic. Once that was done, it grabbed and pulled the ceramic and shield right out. Dont forget to use a dab of grease on the threads to aid in cutting into the shield and to catch the small metal pieces that are created. Also, this is not a "bull in china shop" type job, take your time, use finess not muscle. Good luck. Great tool, Great Price, Quick delivery. Thanks Amazon.

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great Tool For Extracting Ford 3 Valve Engine Broken Plugs, Easy To Use and It WORKS!
*by Y***6 on May 20, 2016*

Update: This first pragraph is a more to the point summary of the below review. I used the Lisle tool to replace 5 broken plugs out of 8 on a 2007 Ford F150 5.4L at 94K. It was quite literally a must to remove the broken plugs and worked flawlessly. The following paragraphs may be helpful if your having an issue with your broken plugs: Replaced the plugs on a well maintained 2007 F150 5.4L at 94K and followed Ford's TSB (Technical Service Bulletin) on plug removal to the letter (actually above and beyond by soaking the plugs in aerokroil penetrating oil 18+ hours after a 1/4 loosen turn) and 5 of the 8 plugs still broke. Prior to, I was really stressing over doing this job after reading all the horror stories from Ford owners of plugs breaking . So just in case I bought the Lisle tool and had it there ready to go. Boy I'm I glad I did! I'm a weekend mechanic, I don't do it for work, fun or a hobby....I do it when the truck/car needs fixed and it's within my technical and tool capabilities. This tool is well within mine and it will be for most people. If you change your own spark plugs you can use this tool. One note is make sure you have a 'Deep Socket 15/16 Socket', you HAVE to have this to use the tool for the extracting part.. A standard 15/16 socket won't do, it's got to be a deep well socket (Guess who had to degrease themselves enough to go to the store to get a socket!). The Lisle tool worked flawlessly but there's a few points you need to address if you use it. Having an air compressor with a long angled attachment to blow any penetrating oil or broken ceramic from cylinders is highly recommended. I used the Hiltex® 31111 24" Air Blow Gun with Angled Aluminum Nozzle | Standard 1/4-inch NPT Air Inlet that I bought on Amazon and it worked great. BE CAREFUL when you use the aerokroil oil. If you get too much down into the actual cylinder it can cause MAJOR problems with engine 'hydro lock'. So if you soak the plugs with the oil, be SURE that you get the excess oil out of the plug port before you try to extract the plug. I used a DIY contraption (it was a 3/4" diameter flex hose taped to the vac hose) on my shop vac to suck out the excess oil and then blew it out with the air hose for safe measure. Then, when the plugs were finally out, I repeated that process getting any exceess oil out of the cylinders before putting the new plugs in. Also, there's 2 different ways the plugs break and are described in Ford's TSB as 'Mode 1' and 'Mode 2'. Mode 1 is where the plug just snaps and you bring out the top half of the plug in your socket. That's "good", just go straight to the Lisle tool to extract it. But with me, mine broke off in Mode 2, where the whole plugs turns but is still stuck in the engine. Then in order to use the Lisle tool you have to get that top portion of the plug unattached from the rest of the plug. That was my pain, trying to get a pair of needle nose pliers, with angled heads or not, in some of those plug holes. It was impossible to disengage the top portion the plug in "Mode 1" with the pliers in 2 of the cylinders. So in those 2 cylinders I retightened and loosened the plugs several times, with a lot of wiggling it around between, until the top of the plug finally disengaged. In addition, I used the Sunex 884505 3/8-Inch Drive 9/16-Inch Extra Deep Spark Plug Socket, available on Amazon and recommend it. Thank goodness for the Lisle tool, it's a serious 5 star tool, but I'm not happy with Ford....at all. If this is just too much for you to tackle and you decide to take the chance with a mechanics shop, be sure to Google the Ford Spark Plug Settlement. It explains the class action settlement against Ford for this problem. It explains their reimbursement procedure for over expenses you incur for having the plugs changed out. There's forms you can download to complete the process. It was a slap in the face to me because it's percentage based but if your stuck and can't do this job yourself make sure you use it. One last note. If you have the money and your approaching 100K go ahead and replace the coil packs with a quality product. They sit on top of the plug and have to be removed anyway to take the plugs out so no extra time. On my previous Ford 5.4L they started going out 1 by 1 after 100K so this time I just took care of it at the same time. Good Luck!

### ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐ Great tool to do the job but do your research!!!
*by B***N on August 31, 2015*

First of all let me say this is a great tool to do the job of getting broken spark plugs out of a Ford Triton v8 engine. Specifically I used it in my 2005 Ford Expedition. I STRESS read reviews on here and watch YouTube videos before attempting as one flaw is the instructions that come with the tool tell you the basics but not everything. A recent reviewer in here with a five star rating posted detailed pictures with what to do for lubrication which the instructions don't even mention. I highly recommend you read his review. I won't say everything he already did but confirm a few things where potential issues are and how I handled them. First I did put nickel anti-seize compound wherever there were threads on the tool before using except for the self tapping screw thead. On the self tapping screw thread I used high temp grease but any grease would do. The reason for using these products is it helps keep the tool from slipping or getting stuck and also seemed to help prolong the life of the threads or tapping screw. I read many reviews and those not doing this seemed to have the most problems with threads getting stripped after a couple of uses. I got 7 plugs that broke off and could have done many more I think. Even doing all these steps however I saw that the self tapping screw after 7 was just starting to flatten on one of the threads but still working fine. I also noticed that the thread on the pusher tool that screws into the spark plug hole was slightly stripped even after lubrication and I am not sure why as that should not have happened. It was still overall working however and usable. I probably could have pursued a warranty claim with the company on that one but it got my 7 plugs out so I did not take that route. Finally something I did not see reviewed on here is after extracting the plugs how do you get them off!!!!! They do not just twist off like the instructions say at least not for me. I tried clamping them in a vice and twisting off but since they are circular that still did not work. The only way I could get them off the self tapping screw was to break off the porcelain as low as it could go, put a screw in there and hammer it down lightly to push the porcelain down into the plug per the pictures, and then use a 1/8" metal drill bit to drill through the end of the plug per the picture while it was in my vice grip. Why do this? Well that allowed me to put al Allen/hex key through the two holes and I was then able to clamp the plug into the vice with the Allen/hex key in the clamp so it would not spin no matter the torque. My pictures don't show the self tapping screw in the plug but it would have still been in there and you could then use your ratchet to put a lot of torque rotating clockwise to get the plug off the screw. It worked great once I figured out how to do it. I hope this helps save someone else the frustration I had. I did this with all 7 of them. It takes a little time but not bad once you get the hang of it. Regarding the rest of the tool I fully pushed the pusher into the plugs and had no issues with that. Some people say not to as they are afraid it will break porcelain or something else into the head but did not happen to me. Either way if you have a shop vac with tubing improvised to suck stuff out of the plug holes and an air spraying tool to stick into the head and blow it out there should not be issues. Another recommendation: TAKE YOUR TIME! It helps. I spend around 8 hours on this total. Fixed my misfire I was getting going up hills in the 45-55 range. Finally, if you break a tab on the coil connectors that holds them onto the plug coil use a zip tie to hold it on as much cheaper and simpler than messing with the wiring harness. One on my tabs broke and this is what I did to fix it. Finally make sure all your coils are attached when done as if you get a misfire after doing this, most likely that is the cause unless you sprayed too much cleaner in there and did not blow it out with a tool. Overall the tool did the job and I don't see anything out there that will do better. Improvements could be made on the directions and possibly the threads to strengthen them but not sure. The self tapping screw part supposedly has an updated better one the company put out with 4 straight markings on the tapping steel assembly. Mine did have these 4 markings upon inspection. Hope this review helps you and the reason I put the time into this review is the effort I had to put into researching it. I just wish I had a video to attach as well but I don't. Enjoy.

## Frequently Bought Together

- Lisle 65700 Broken Plug Remover Kit for Ford 3V Engine
- OTC 6900 Ford F-150 Spark Plug Socket, Gray
- OTC 6918 Spark Plug Remover Kit, Black

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*Product available on Desertcart Egypt*
*Store origin: EG*
*Last updated: 2026-03-21*