Pioneer TS-WH500A Compact Series Dual 7-1/8" x 3-7/8" - 150 W Max Power - HVT (Horizontal Vertical Transforming) Sealed Active Subwoofer

All things considered, this is a FANTASTIC sub. If you are looking for a compact, amp+woofer combo that can easily slide under or behind your seat, or take the least amount of space possible in your hatchback or trunk, look no further. I purchased this sub along with a Kenwood KSC-SW11 Compact Powered Enclosed Subwoofer, and the difference is truly insane. I suppose its possible the Kenwood unit was defective, thats the only other possibility I can think of other than its just a piece of junk. The Pioneer's wattage rating might be less than that of the Kenwood, but don't let that fool you. The Kenwood struggled and missed low notes so often, while popping and clipping bass drum/ beat notes. The technology of this new Pioneer sub is that it doesn't function like a normal speaker, so the lower power rating is OK - it producers much more sound than the Kenwood. Lower notes and smoother beatsJust so long as you know you are not going to get window-rattling, earth shaking subwoofer setups that take up half or your entire trunk for ease of install and reclaimed trunk space. I'd say this sub sounds and "hits" like that of some of the best OEM/Factory subwoofers that come in high-end automotive setups, and really even then some. Thats what you should expect. Nothing anyone will hear outside of the car. But plenty to fill in all the lows in the music when you're driving around. I wanted something under the seat as to not take up any other space in my vehicle. This sub is perfect. My friends can't believe how good it sounds and hard it hits for it's size. It has easily sold itself to half dozen of my friends.And for anyone who is wondering, since the information is not provided here or on Pioneer's website, it DOES come with the power/ground/remote wiring harness and plenty of cable, along with speaker taps for tapping off of rear speaker outputs from aftermarket radio decks. It might require a converter for high-end sound systems such as Bose. The ONLY other thing you will need to connect this to the S/W RCA outputs of an aftermarket deck is a set of RCA cables. The included harness has a set of female RCA plugs to connect to.Don't hesitate, you won't be disappointed.UPDATE: After almost a month, and more than 5,000 miles driven running this sub the entire time, I am still very impressed with this sub. 12 to 14 hr road trips are much more pleasant with a better sounding music system, and this sub is handling long drives like a champ.2ND UPDATE: After 2 years and 50,000 miles of driving and using this sub, it still works great and sounds as good as it did on day 1!3RD UPDATE: 3+ years and 70,000 miles later, still works and sounds amazing! I'm about to buy a 2nd unit for another vehicle without hesitating.TIP: Run the sub-out gain on your head unit at close to max. On my Pioneer head unit, I'm running 120Hz crossover and +5 (out of +6) of output. Then, control the volume with the sub gain wheel, and leave the crossover at a 120Hz. For my vehicle, the sweet spot is at a needle-width below half-way. I have found this technique helped smooth out the volume curve on this sub; letting it respond to the upper and lower end bass notes evenly without the "beat" bass notes being too loud or maxing out the speaker travel. Previously, I was missing some volume in the bass tones and the beat bass notes were a little too loud. I prefer a smooth, more even bass response across the frequency range.

Very punchy and clean sounding bass. If your front speakers lack mid-bass then you may find difficulty blending in your subs without being over bearing. You'll need something like this and the output was quite impressive. It will also help make all the bass sound as if it's up front rather than localized behind you. The closest I could compare it with would be an 8" Sundown SD sub in sealed box twice as large with twice the power. This is as clean as the SD and more efficient (98db efficient in car) but not as loud below 50hz but considering the application, size and power it's still quite impressive.Don't let the 50 watts rms rating scare you over another that is rated 150 watts rms because of differences in speaker sensitivity and in order to hear a noticeable difference between either of same efficiency would mean at least 300-500 watts to have the headroom necessary to achieve a noticeable level of output because music is dynamic so only the highest peaks of musical output at full volume with proper gain will yield those short bursts of maximum power from your amp. So you need 10 db's increase to be twice as loud, 64 watts is 108db's, then it takes 1024 watts to be 120db's...about twice as loud. At moderate levels, you may only be using 10 watts on average. Point is, don't think too hard about amp power when the difference is within a few hundred watts. It takes a lot of power to get twice as loud and 50 watts for this sub did quite well throughout the volume range with 1/2 to 3/4 gain.If you plan on keeping stock radio and speakers, this will make the sound much more full and rich or for anyone that doesn't want to sacrifice any useable space in their car.

TS-WH500A is a good sub for this size.some people said this it too weak sub...but 50W RMS output is acceptable when putting in cars up to subcompact cars. (I put this into 2012 Chevy Spark. KDM)if you're looking for window breaker, find something else that can output 300W or more.seriously, why the people in here whines about weak bass? it is just 50w output sub.