Yaeccc1000W Car Audio High Power Amplifier Amp Board Powerful Bass Sub woofer Board 12V

I was expecting maybe 50-100 clean RMS watts out of this from looking at how it's constructed, and that's what it does, no muss, no fuss. I bought it to build a small bass practice amp with an old 15" speaker and some 3/4 plywood I had in the back room, and after initial test it looks like it'll do that job just fine. The main thing for a rock-solid reliable guitar amp is, all the components should be operating well below their let-the-smoke-out levels, and after test this amp looks to be perfect to set up for that.I ran initial RMS power tests off a car battery, feeding the amp 100 Hz sine wave, running into 8 and 4 ohm test resistors, and watching the output for the first sign of clipping on a scope then backing off a bit and taking readings. Started with the battery partially charged at about 11.5V, then ran tests again fully charged at 12.6, and noticed something unsurprising, but potentially useful: More power before clipping at the higher supply voltage.So when I got my cheap 12v 15A supply, I ran more detailed tests over the available voltage range, about 10.5V to 13.6V. Long story short, at 10.5 V supply in I got about 40W RMS clean into 8 ohms, about 60W RMS into 4. At 13.6V in, I got about 70W RMS into 8 ohms, about 100W into 4. And in between, max clean power tracked pretty smoothly with supply voltage.(FWIW, for you car bass power freaks, at 13.6 volts supply and 4 ohms out it looked to be just starting to limit on the 15 amps my supply would push. Feed it more volts and amps and you may well get more - up to a point. I'd recommend a fan if you go there, and if you fry it anyway, don't expect sincere sympathy.)So if I set my supply up for 12.0Vdc, I'll get about 50W clean into my old 8 ohm speaker, which the speaker should handle indefinitely. The amp did 100W into 4 ohms and was barely warm after 10-15 seconds continuous test - chances are good it too will handle 50W into 8ohms all day. (Worst case, if it does get too hot after playing for a while, I can back off the supply some and/or hang a small fan off it.) Clipping comes on gradually and doesn't look too sharp-edged on the scope, nor does it do anything major to the current draw - looking forward to seeing how the clipping sounds with my speaker and bass. (If I like the overdriven tone I might back off the supply more to get it at lower volume.)(later) Thought of a couple more tests to do. Fed it 30Hz sine wave instead of 100 Hz, and got essentially the same power out of it. Nice! Then ran it at 30 Hz sine, 50W/8 ohm continuous and timed it - took about a minute to get uncomfortably hot over the output transistors. Let it cool down, backed off to 25W, and after a minute it was getting quite warm. So yeah, if pushed hard this probably could use a fan. I'll have to keep an eye on that when I start playing bass through it. (Gonna need more gain first. Input board says it has +-15v on the connector cable, so that should be easy even if I can't just tweak a gain resistor on one of the opamps.)If I find anything to be unhappy about I'll come back and write about it. Otherwise, assume I'm too busy having fun with this nice little low-cost amp.

I opted to buy this one because all the other amps on here are overpriced, not sure why the prices on them have suddenly gone up! at 22 bucks this one has stolen the show and performs great for all you really need for day to day use. I have it hooked up to a single 12 inch subwoofer, works and thumps, good enough for me. only thing that could be better are the connections just be gentle when you tighten the set screws, you will need a not so thick wiring kit. Im enjoying this amp.

First of all, no, it's NOT a 1000-watt mono amp. But what it IS, is a more than capable (and affordable) mono amp pushing about 120 watts @ 13 volts DC (I'm guessing it'll hit peaks of 250-300 watts).The first one I bought was so impressive that I bought another. I paired them both up with an SSL 8" single voice coil subwoofer and threw them both in a GRS 8" truck speaker box. I ran 6 AWG wire for power and ground and let her rip. I would imagine in a better, more voluminous box and with a better sub, this little amp would really shine. However, the style/genre of music I listen to (rock, both heavy/metal and soft/yacht) doesn't require all of that and this amp (in combo with said sub/box) really fills out the sound nicely in the crew cab of my F-150.I doubt I would run tis with a sub bigger than 12"that required big power to really move it, but for low to mid-range subs (200 - 400-watt range) this sub would more than suffice.Things to note - It comes with ZERO literature/instructions. Some of the reviews stated that the output speaker wires weren't soldered to the board. That was not the case with the two I bought. Others stated that the control knobs for range and gain did not work well. Again, not the case with the two I bought. However, considering the price point and manufacturing origin of this amp, I wouldn't doubt that there could be some quality control issues. I guess for $24 you have to decide if you want to roll the dice.Bottom line is that if you get one and it works, it will work very well.

It works great. It may not put out a 1000watts but I got it hooked up 2 1 sub and u feel the bass in ur chest cavity. Well worth 20 bucks. I actually used the card board box 4 the containment vessel 4 the circuit board and I absolutely used duct tape 2 reinforce the box. U may laugh and say tacky but I'm the only 1 who looks under my seat. Lmao

I've never seen an amplifier so overrated (in max watts) and yet underrated (in value for money) at the same time. It was obvious this amp was going to be nowhere near the 1000 watts with a 20a fuse, but in the product details is listed a max of 120w and that's what I was expecting. Definitely worth the $20 because I got the rated120w rms and more @14.2v into a 4 ohm skar ix-10 sub I was able to get about 232w rms and man it's a strong 232. Sound quality is on point if what your using it for is a subwoofer. Only thing I will note is that the heatsink side near the output transistor does get pretty warm after a while so I would recommend wiring in a PC fan on the heatsink