Philmore 3.5mm 1/8"Isolated Mini Stereo Female Panel Mount Headphone Jack ; 70-534

I used this Philmore 1/8” jack to mod a Beyer Dynamic DT770 Limited Edition set of headphones that I accidentally ran over with a vacuum and obliterated up the cable. I didn’t want to have to deal with that again so I did the detachable cable mod.I followed a couple of YouTube videos for the install, had to dremel out a couple of spots, and it works very well.The construction of this part is very high quality, the retaining nut is secure, and the lead points are strong. Look no further.

I gave it a 5 on easy to install as it is just a simple 2 wire attachment, BUT, if you have no electrical or communications technician experience, you have to go the trial-and-error method to get the wires on the right points. I installed mine in an Akaso EK7000 camera which is about the smallest item this will fit into (with modifications to the camera of course). Works great and holds the microphone input securely.

I ordered this to mod a headphone jack onto my HD 280 Pros so I could use any male-to-male cable, or even better, use a male-to-male coupler to connect a Bluetooth headphone adapter to make them completely wireless. After some difficulties, it's finally done and it looks like it came that way from the factory. Some things to note if you try this with your own HD 280 Pros:1) As far as size goes, it's perfect. The main body of this jack is 5/16" wide, the same width as the hole for the original cable. The nut can be wedged between the inside of the cord hole and the part that holds the cable in place, at which point you can simply insert the rest of the jack and screw it together reasonably tightly, solder the driver wires to the jack, and reassemble. No muss, no fuss, and most importantly no epoxy or glue to make future disassembly more difficult.2) With the central terminal (ground) facing up, the left terminal is for the right channel and the right terminal is for the left channel, which conveniently enough is also how the driver wires are arranged. Between this and the fitment, you could almost swear Sennheiser designed them with this very jack in mind. 😲3) When I soldered both copper driver wires to ground and each red driver wire to its respective terminal, one of the drivers was out of phase. Assuming what I read elsewhere is accurate and the wires that end up connected to the blue and white wires in the original cable (i.e. the copper wires) are both ground, this makes no sense, but still I just swapped the red and copper wires for one driver and now things sound like they should.Now I just need a Bluetooth adapter (I'm eyeing the FiiO BTR1K), a male-to-male coupler and a 90-degree adapter (surprisingly, a male-to-male 90-degree adapter that would do the job of both simply does not exist in this world), and I'll be all done with this retrofit. I'm going to have to order some new ear cushions, too, since I still had the original ones that came with these when I got them over ten years ago, and both the pleather and the foam practically disintegrated in the process of removing them from the earpieces.

Speaker cable plug in for old speaker

CONS:1) I measured 2 ohms from Tip and Ring to solder tabs - verified X3 times because I couldn't believe it.2) Solder tabs too small for even 24 AWG wire, let alone a tinned wire. So what, hook up with 30 AWG ?3) GND solder tab needs to take the two signal grounds, but has the same tiny hole as Tip and Ring. I had to use tricks to get two ground wires onto the ground tab.4) No room for shield wire on ground solder tab ... see issue 3.5) Too few threads - it did actually mount securely into my cast aluminum enclosure, but just barely with no room for error and required lots of finesse.PROS:6) The solder tabs did take solder really well.7) It does hold the 1/8" stereo plug very securely with no cracking/popping when the plug is rotated.

Perfect low profile, discreet plug. Used this to replace the aux jack in my Land Rover that went bad. Looks factory and works great. My issue is that the connectors in the back are super small so connecting the wires was a pain. I’d probably be best to solder wires to it first then solder the wires together if you’re working in a tight space.

I put this on an old DR field and brush mower. Around late 80’s to very early 90’s model. I called the place where it originally came from. They wanted 180 for the carb. I checked around and found this one. Exact replacement for it for less than 20 bucks. Works like a champ. So happy with this.

This 3.5mm jack is perfect for small spaces or where you want something discrete. The solder taps are on the small side but I still had space to solder the T,R,S, connections. If you want to use this for any other purpose besides as a headphone out jack like trying to solder 5 wires to it (+,-, 2 grounds and a shield) like one user did you won't have enough space. If you use it for it's intended purpose you will be fine.