Yaomiao g 10/ FR 4 Garolite Sheet G10, Yellow(2 Pcs,1/32" Thick x 12" Wide x 12" Long)

2 pieces! great price! this is the perfect thickness not like the flexible first kind that was floppy and paper thin--this is about .85 mil and rigid, but can bow just a bit as you want paired with spring steel for the magnet bond on x1 bed. Both sides were protected with plastic cover and perfect surface. The rigid sheets can be cut to size with the right tools--I was able to score with many passes of utility knife (it does dull the blade as expected) and then safely snap. I only cut to square bed part for 2 straight cuts and let the steel sheet cover the front overhang and the back filament wipe area ( I do add a little foil tape to the wipe part). I used a spring steel blank plate to bond with 3m sheet adhesive and it works perfect.I don't worry about plate detection and turn that off in printer settings, just level the bed when you print and use the smooth plate setting-- I tend to go about 5-10 degrees over the PEI smooth plate just to get the full plate warm. on ABS or PETG. No surface printing glue needed the heat holds it and it cools and releases. Did not need to sand this one yet. If I do later with time, I will refresh it with 1500 grit sandpaper, I recommend wet sanding paper to prevent more dangerous dust when sanding, or use protective gear.

Okay, so tired to use garolite on my first cleaned and prepared build plate! It didn't go well. I used a razor and cut it the majority of the way through the sheet, and delimitation was still an issue regardless.I tried to use acetone on the metal sheet to get the 3m off and it didn't work well. Left boogers all over! Surprisingly enough the secret to getting 468mp off is peanut butter. Coat it leave in a warm area for an hour and come back and scrap the majority off. Use ipa or acetone for the last little bit and it will be 99%!Cutting garolite is an experience. Learn from my mistakes, don't use a razor and try to snap this. It will delimitate and then your bed will be super uneven. The second time around I learned, clean everything up, again, put the FULL sheet of garolite on the metal plate and then used my dremel and a cutting disc to cut it to size! It works perfectly! Make sure to wear eye protection and a good mask. You don't want to inhale microscopic fiberglass particles!Sand the edges to perfectly form to your plate and it looks decent for a diy! Then sand the face of the plate so it's not so slick and you're good to go after a rinse with dishsoap and water. (Wear a mask while you sand 😷)I print in primarily PETG and they stick really really well to this plate! Better than my original prusa plate for sure! I love my textured plates but this is expecional bed adhesion! Worked well for the few nylon and TPU prints too! It's relatively cheap! So I say give it a shot! The 1/32 is just enough for the pinda to bed level! So that's also not an issue with my mk3s+!Update: this is thing is great for everything! I've tried asa,abs,petg,pa, tpu, pc, etc and it all sticks like a dream compared to the textured sheet provide by prusa! The textured sheets are great this has been spectacular! Not a single failed print due to adhesion so far!

Very solid, nice looking material. Easily removable projective films on both sides to keep it nice until it’s finished and ready to install.Diablo metal cutting jigsaw blades made quick work of it and have nice control of cut.

I've been using these as print surfaces for my 3D printer. They are not cut perfectly square, and the surfaces have a few nicks and scratches. Besides that, they work great for my application, and I'd buy them again.

Good quality and just as it was advertised

Good product

If using as a 3D printing build plate, getting the perfect nozzle gap is the key to using this, it seems. Once that is achieved, the parts stick like they are welded down during printing and then pretty much just fall off after cooling down. I highly recommend for now and will update after a couple months use.

Converted my print bed fine. Pa6-cf now sticks well with elmers purple glue stick and no heat. No heat means no base later warping.