1-4" Lift Front Upper Control Arms Compatible with for Jeep Grand Cherokee (WK) & Jeep Commander (XK) 2005-2010, 1-4" Lift Front Control Arms Tubular Steel W/Ball Joints

Installed these last night, wow..- sturdy and well built as compared to stock- fit like a glove, a washer before and after each bushing.. no hassle- geometry is spot on for a 3.25" lift

I’m really happy with these control arms. The fit was good,They look good too. Customer service was excellent.

I looked a long time for control arms like this. There are two other brand names that supply similar. The other two brands are $659 and the other is $459. These at $199 take the gold award for value and quality. They are exactly the same as the others. But this one only costing half the price of one and the other one being three times the price of the Deek’s. The welds are good quality as are the bushings. The ball joint is the equivalent of the ball joint for the Escalade and the same size for a replacement. They are the same dimensions of the other two competitors. There are no directions with them, but you don’t need any. Pretty straight forward. If you don’t know how to install them then you will have to find a shop to do that for you. These will correct he caster/camber angels for a lift on a WK Grand Cherokee. If you have a small lift 4 inches or under on your Jeep these are a must period. This will save your tires. Also if you continue to run the stock upper control arms they will eventually fail and your Jeep could suffer a large bit of damage to the front suspension. These provide a very nice improved ride and smoother ride. Mine installed very quickly. Does not require a lot of tools. But you do have to have the correct tools. I highly recommend these. You will not be disappointed I promise. These are the best deal going out there now. Just get them if you find them in stoke from this seller. Hope this helps someone out there that is searching for these. I have been turning wrenches all my life and worked on everything you can think of including heavy equipment, tractor trailers, cars, motorcycles, boats and you name it. So I know what I am talking about.

Another Great Idea for a Product that looks impressive on Paper, but not so great in real world.The Good:Beefy, strong and well made. Polyurethane bushings are larger in size than the original OEM design and they are supposed to last a very long time. Being greasable is another great idea.Ball Joint: removable, greasable (!) and larger in size than the OEM design. Rubber Boot is thick and large.The Not so good:The 90-degree zerks (Metric M6-1.00 threads) at the bushing were supposed to fit in the small, confined space available in the frame cups on the inner fender. However, during the installation I struggled to get the Control Arms to go deep enough inside in order for the holes to align for the mounting bolts. This is when I broke them both zerks. Then I realized why: they were hitting at the inner top of the cups, thus not allowing the Control Arm to get up enough to fit. I ended up taking off the Control Arm, using another set of zerks to apply plenty of grease (until it started to come out) and then used two of the shortest M6 bolts that I had to cap the threaded holes to prevent dirt to reach inside.Next: the large Washers that were intended to go on both sides of each bushing, require two sets of hands for installation. Even when I applied some sticky grease, they continue to slide out due to the very tight fit. When I managed to get then all in, the Control Arm was still not going in deep enough for the holes to align. I wasted about an hour and a lot of effort, with no prevail. Then I realized why: the washers are too large on the Outside Diameter and they were hitting inside the rounded frame cups. Washers should have about 44-45 mm Outer Diameter instead of the 54 mm Dia.I ended up installing the Control Arms without the Washers, but they still didn't want to go all the way for the proper hole alignment: the Outer edge of the polyurethane Bushings should be tapered (!) at 45 or 60 degree angle. Otherwise, you need to apply military force to make them go all the way in, so that the bolts could slide in.Remember: you need another person to help you with the installation, holding and jiggling (up and down) on the Control Arm, until all the 3 holes come into a perfect alignment, so that you can finally slide through the mounting bolt.I was too tired and exhausted after several good hours to be able to continue with the Control Arm installation on the other side (driver side) of the Jeep.It should take a lot less time, after the hard learned lessons from the previous attempt at installation.AGAIN: a great idea on paper that does not match the reality in the real world !I should get paid for the feedback and for the product improvement provided.Good Luck.UPDATE: after a few days of driving the Jeep, I did a quick visual inspection. Noticed immediately a dent in the rubber Jounce Stop Bumper. The zerk on the Ball Joint made it and the red plastic cap was also missing. Note: I have a small Lift on the Jeep (about 1-1.5" on the front and 2" on the rear). Just by driving on some of the city streets makes the suspension travel up-and-down quite a bit: wavy roads and too many potholes and cracks of all sizes in the asphalt. Looks like I would have to find some more very short M6 x 5mm bolts with a very flat hex head, to replace the zerks at the ball joint.Anything longer, will bottom out and will stick out the same as the zerks.I will come back later with another update.UPDATE: found a set of 4 large & thin Washers (as described above) at Ace Hardware (corporate owned) store. I managed to re-install the RH Side Control Arm with the washers on both sides of the polyurethane bushings. What a PITA ! You need 6 hands maybe, to manage to do everything together. I would like to see in a video how the designers managed to do the task of installation, with all the components they envisioned.I will have to do the installation process on the LH side of the Jeep, after I will find another set of 4 large & thin Washers of the proper outer Dia .

Quality looks Good and construction. So far are working great. I mounted in a 2014 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland due to 2.5 in lift suspension but found there are the same length of the one use the Air suspension.

Really sturdy upper control arms for my wk2 Jeep Grand Cherokee with a 2 1/2 inch lift. It got everything aligned properly and corrected the squeaks from the previous control arms that I had installed. No issues with the grease nipples either like others have noted, just be sure to not over tighten them. So far so good. Highly recommend these control arms. A++

build seems ok, only issue is the Grease fitting are WEAK .. cheaply made ones. been better if they included Brass fittings. while installing a few fitting they broke off. now when i go to re grease the units, i will have to tap drill out old cheapers and replace with Brass fittings. othan that they seem pretty good . Now if they have the aftermarket Rear control arms, that are not the standard build, but with the drop bracket and adjustable setting. might be a good set . just will have to replace all fitting with brass type fittings.. even a rethink with a led braided hose and mounting bracket would be a good ideal, for a better grease fitting ... that way you can mount it any place inside the splash gardliner .. So far, the seem to be a good build, i'm not a off roader , i just like a lifted Liberty that looks good and does what it needs to to do . winter time will be a somewhat test on these things ..and its not far off, if they hold up thru winter, then spring time i'll replace the fittings and i'll take it to the local off road park and put them thru a far test .. and then give a full review on a second set if they hold up /'/

Grease zerks are a bitch to line up properly and tighten. Need a variety of different thickness small washers. Bitch to install alone. Otherwise great product.