MLCS 9078 20-Amp Safety Router Table Power Switch

I have two of these, one on my table saw and one on my router table. The one on my saw gets used quite a bit in my shop and it's holding up fine after a year and a half. Every once in a while I whack the stop paddle off-axis and it pops off. No biggie, I just stick it back on.Having opened both switches up to hardwire them (they come with sockets), I was impressed with the feel of the switch components themselves. They're actually pretty solid units; the plastic feel is limited to the paddle, enclosure, and the buttons, but the guts of the switch seem pretty hefty and metal-based.As for the "safety" feature, the first switch I got didn't have it, the second did. I just chopped off the plastic nubs and now I've got two switches that don't stick on the off position. I'm actually kinda glad that this switch has that feature because it could be useful for some people but those who don't need it can very easily remove it.The start button is recessed and can occasionally require some fumbling around to find but I think that's a good thing. I'd rather not have it be an easy thing to press.Oh, for those of you who are want one of these switches for 220/240v power, yes, it will do it! It's a two-pole switch inside, which isn't clear in the product description. I changed my saw over to a 240v motor and (after checking the terminals) rewired the switch to handle L1 and L2 and it works great.

I bought this to use a a remote on/off switch for my dust collector. I mounted it to the front of my saw stand where it is easily in reach. I left the paddle on the switch and I am able to shut it off with my knee. The switch seems to be built very well including the cords. My dust collector is rated at 16 amps and this switch seems to handle it just fine.

Right out of the box the stop button was stuck and would not press in. No matter how hard I pressed the stop paddle the stop button would not move. When I lifted the paddle up and pushed the stop botton directly it finally went down but with difficulty. I took the switch apart and found that the plastic switch body had plastic molding flash (this happens in the molding process when the mold is not properly maintained) that prevented the "switch button" from being pushed in. I filed the flash away and the switch worked fine after that. Lucky I am an engineer and was able to fix this. Very poor quality control on this product. It is obvious the switch was not tested off the assembly line. Don't buy this switch unless your ready to do some repairs yourself.

Wife got this for me and new router table. It makes turning the router off much easier. The stop is large, sticks out, and works instantly. Depending on where I am standing set to use with my knee or can hit with my hand. Don't have to fumble around feeling for it. It works for 15 amps and have this attached to a power strip BUT don't add a vac unless you check the amps. Our Vac was 12 which would exceed the switch.

Attached this to the end of my router table. Works great turning on and off the router is much easier and safer hitting this switch than fumbling around under the table looking for the switch on the router. Be advised this is a large stop paddle. Much larger than I expected. Haven't used it very much or very long but so far I really like it. and after two low back surgeries and an implant for pain, I really love not having to bend so much to find the fumbling to find the switch on the router itself.

Easy to install, high quality, and does what it's supposed to do.This is a great addition to my router table and puts a "WHOA!" stop paddle in a spot where I can hit it with my knee.I'd buy it again in a heartbeat.

I RECEVED MY SWITCH TODAY AND WAS SURPRISED IT WAS SO BIG. IF IT HELPS SOMEONE ELSE IN THERE CHOICE IT IS , SWITCH BOX 2&5/8 WIDE 4&3/8 TALL 3&1/2 DEEP.WITH STOP PADDLE IN RUN 4&1/2 DEEP. ON & OFF BUTTONS ARE 1&1/2 WIDE X 1 TALL.STOP PADDLE 5 & 1/2 TOTAL HEIGHT, 3 & 1/2 SQUARE STOP SIGN. THE POWER LINE TO THE ROUTER OR OTHER TOOL IS 19''. MAIN POWER LINE IS 67''LONG. IT IS WELL BILT, THE STOP PADDLE LOCKS IN OFF. LIFT THE PADDLE TO UNLOCK THEN PUSH START, OR YOU CAN PUSH START RATHER HARD AND IT WILL UNLOCK AND START. THE STOP SIGN PADDLE CAN BE UNCLIPED AND REMOVED AND USE THE BUTTONS.BUT YOUR LEG WILL NOT KILL IT ANY LONGER. I HOPE THIS HELPS SOMEONE,I AM GOING TO MAKE MOOR SAWDUST, LETS HAVE FUN.

The MLCS 20 AMP safety switch seems to be very well built and is large enough to use to quickly with my knee or hand to turn off the power tool in the case of an emergency. When I tested it it worked well. My only concern is the rating of the wires used in the construction of this switch. They are AWG 14 wires. Now my shop is completely wired with AWG 12 wire which is the wire used for a 20 amp circuit (actually, my whole house is wired for 20 amp circuits which has come in handy with so many appliances, etc. requiring 20 amp circuits). The wire on my table saw is, also, AWG 12 wire. So, now, one is using this safety switch with the 20 amp circuit rating using AWG 14 wire (15 Amp rating)??? on a power table saw with 20 amp wires. Maybe an electrical engineer will put my and other people's minds at ease using this kind of setup. I hope so! Think about this and check this issue out before you order this product. I am keeping mine and going to check it further with my neighbor who is an electrician. Good luck with your research. (I can not go any higher than three stars with this product rated as a 20 amp switch using 15 amp wire. I am keeping it because I have many other power tools with 15 amp ratings that I can use with this switch).