Parts Express 330-075 12 VDC 5-Pin Relay Socket For Bosch Type Relay

got 3 of these to wire up an analog way of getting the radio in my truck to stay on till the door is opened. my only beef with this is that 3 of the wires are around 8 gauge, and 2 are 10/12 gauge. not a huge issue, and it's meant for wiring up lights and such, but in my case i wish i had known before hand. the socket is really snug, which is nice, i was worried it would feel really cheap, but it's the opposite. the wires themselves are probably around 10" long, so plenty long enough to splice into/ wire your own whatever with. UPDATE I did find one issue with these actually. when i first got them, i plugged them all into the relays to make sure they were snug and everything, then i put the project on a shelf until i finish another one. well, I was diddling with them and noticed something. I can NOT for the life of me get them OFF the relay! I tried prying, I tried pulling, I tried wiggling. these will NOT budge. Now take that as you will, I will never worry about these falling apart on me when I stick them in the dash of my truck, but if the relay takes a poot, then it's going to get intresting

I decided to install factory power windows and mirrors in my 2000 GMC Sierra Sierra and this fit the bill perfectly. My truck already had power door locks so I figured after owing it for 12 years, it was time to switch over to all power for everything. Instead of hacking into my factory circuits, I purchased an auxillary fuse block and fed the power window circuit and power mirror circuit through that fuse block. I used this relay pigtail with a 40-amp auto-reset circuit breaker for my power windows and it worked perfectly. No way anyone would ever look at my truck and think it didn't come from the factory with power windows and mirrors. Thanks Parts Express and Amazon. You made this project easy (and it all worked without any issues at all).

I use form-C relays with this wiring harness for automobiles and security systems. For example, I use two in my car to activate a very loud, after-market, compact motorcycle air horn when the wimpy factory horn of my car is inadequate: one relay is activated when the horn button is depressed, to supply a new 30A feed with an inline fuse to the relay output, where the second relay switches between the factory horn and the new airhorn. The first relay is switched by the factory wiring harness feed to the original horn, which no longer feeds the horn; only the relay's NO output is used. The second relay switches that new higher-power horn power feed between the OEM car horn, using the relay's NC output, and the new airhorn using the relay's NO output; the control signal for that relay is the high-beam power lead that is near where the horns are mounted. This causes the OEM horn to be used by default, most importantly when it is sounded by the remote door lock/unlock system, but also in normal use. On the open highway when the high beams are active, or elsewhere when the light-control stalk on the steering column is pulled toward the driver, the airhorn takes over, providing a rapid way (with practice) to get the attention of a distracted adjacent driver (or one who is 'listening' to their in-car 1 kW sound system) when they would otherwise continue changing or drifting into my lane, causing a collision. Security applications often involve activating an external siren or light that requires more current than the basic security panel can handle. Thus a 12V relay is required. In some cases the fact that this is a connector for a form-C relay (i.e., with both normally-open and normally-closed contacts) permits a single power supply to be switched between driving an external siren/light when in the alarm state, and driving powered sensors such as outdoor long-range IR+microwave intrusion detectors during the normal non-alarming state, reducing the need for multiple 12V DC power supplies.

I use this for my Bosch relay on my flex fuel kit on my BMW. I do not believe it is waterproof. The wire quality is OK. Is subpar but has no issues so I can’t complain. The value for the money is incredible. I would recommend this product. It is very easy to install, but it would be easier if they had some sort of way to mount it.

Spliced relays into a harness. Worked well. Fair price and delivery.

The sockets were shipped very promptly. They met my specs. I chose this seller because the socket was sufficient for the amperage of the circuit that I will be using. As a word of caution to others: Make sure that you make sure that they relay socket conductors wire gauge (wire size) you select will be of sufficient size! You have to determine the amperage draw of the circuit, then consult on-line charts for 12 volt DC circuits: 1. Determine the amperage draw of the accessory that you are using; 2. Determine the length of the wire run. The table will provide you with the recommended wire size (AWG=American Wire Gauge). After you have determined the wire gauge, make sure that the relay and the relay socket have the same wire size can accept the same amperage. A 12 AWG wire is bigger in diameter and can accept more amps than a 14 AWG wire. The smaller the AWG, the bigger the wire. My specs called for a 10 gauge wire. To be safe, I am using a larger, 8 AWG wire.

I was going to use this connector for a project that ultimately in the end did not call for this wiring harness. This is designed to attach to a relay and integrate into a wiring harness. I now have this in my spare electrical parts bin. What I can say is that it looks to be well constructed and the price on Amazon is spot-on.