MoltenSpeed Wax, 1Lb Bag

20 years ago I used to use Performance brand wax on my bicycle chains. Stuff was easy to apply, although this was before the advent of removable links (that I knew of, anyway), so removing and reinstalling the chain was a bit of a pain, with the pins maybe/maybe not reusable. Just microwaved the glass wax jar, dipped the cleaned chain in for a few minutes (attached to a piece of wire), then remove, cool, and remount.After not cycling on a near daily basis for more than a few years (grad school, marriage, kids, you know the story), I decided to get back into cycling for my commute and fun. Helped me shed some pounds and get out there with my youngest, now that he has the bike bug, too.Anyway, Performance does not appear to make their wax anymore, and my 20 year old tub was getting low, so I was glad to find Molten Speed Wax available. They took care of adding PTFE and molybdenum sulfide to their mix, which saves the mess of preparing it by hand.I followed their, and Amazon's convenient suggestions, ordering a small cook pot (AKA Crock Pot, Elite Platinum MST-205XS Maxi-Matic Mini 1-1/2-Quart Round-Shaped Slow Cooker, Stainless Steel) at the same time as the wax. Prep is easy with a KMC one use link (I get more than one use out of their links, but caveat emptor) or Wippermann multi use link (pricey). If you go with the KMC brand, I suggest a link tool, Park Tool Master Link Pliers. You will also need a chain break tool, Park Tool USA Professional Chain Tool CT-3, 10-Speed Compatible is recommended. Note that I use this tool on 11-speed chains without issue, but only to remove pins, as the links are the better way to go.I used the Molten wax with the little bit of leftover Performance wax remaining, so it did dilute out the Molten stuff a little, but I am a tightwad. My latest prep was on a one month old Wippermann chain Wipperman Connex 11Sx 11-Speed SS Inner Link, highly recommended if you can deal with the high price. Since this chain is on my commute bike, I am OK with the expense if it outlasts the Shimano chains used before.For cleaning instructions I suggest going to the Molten Wax website for the thorough method. Cleaning your chain is key to a good prep. I tend to clean using a sonicator and Simple Green HD until no more washes are dirty, followed by manual dipping in odorless mineral spirits (the clear kind - which can be reused and filtered when stored in a glass jar). I also suggest making the coat hanger wire tool they suggest, but be sure it is sized to your wax pot. Also, using the remainder of the hanger wire, I suggest crafting a six inch piece with a 45 degree angle bend to the last inch of each end to hold your chain together for the replacement link. This prevents a lot of frustration and resulting swearing.The promise is that the wax will no longer leave your chain dirty. I do not completely agree, as the chain still collects crud from wherever you ride, but it is worlds better than a wet chain lube. Waxing is also recommended for dry environments, which I do not live in (does anyone, other than desert dwellers?), but I still find it superior to wet lubes in my decidedly wet location. In between waxing I do apply some Boeshield T9 to the chain, which goes on wet, but leaves a dry wax residue behind.I recommend chain wax and the Molten brand in particular.

Prepping the chain can take a bit of work, but once it's set up, it's super quick and easy. I highly recommend the Wipperman Connex link; it's a little pricier than some others, but is incredibly convenient. May initially run a little louder than a freshly cleaned and lubes chain, but once excess wax flakes off, it quiets down. Runs and shifts smoothly.Pic is after a 75 mile ride, just wiped off excess wax that flaked off. Not sure how long it'll hold up, but re-waxing is super simple - just pop the chain off, drop in melted wax, stir it about a little, then pull it out, give it a wipe and let cool.There may be a couple extra steps than the usual wipe/relube, but the benefit is zero degreasing necessary, sparkling clean cassette, and a chain that can be handled with bare hands. Since I sometimes transport my bike in the car, the fact that the chain doesn't leave grease marks anywhere is a huge plus.Pick up a cheap crock pot, a reusable link, some mineral spirits, and some denatured alcohol, and you're all set. Once the initial chain cleaning is done, pack away the degreasers, you'll rarely need them.Update: still running the waxed chain. There are some wax flakes to deal with; after mounting the chain, I run it through a cloth, both forwards and backwards and through all the gears - bonus is it's a good opportunity to double check indexing. Running the chain forwards and backwards through the cloth or rag gets most of the excess.I probably re-wax more than strictly necessary, simply because it's so easy. After a few rides, turn the crock pot on before going for a ride. When getting back, it's fully melted; pop off the chain, drop it in. After a mile or two, runs super smooth and silent, and stays super clean.Update: after about 1,500 miles or so, have had few issues, other than one. When travelling, it's not very practical to take the crock pot. I find it's best to re-wax every 200 miles or so, and especially after riding in wet conditions. Also, if you live in a hot area (El Paso), you may receive a wax block instead of granules. Didn't affect the performance, just had to cut it into chunks before melting.