Amazboost Cell Phone Booster for Home, Cell Phone Signal Booster Kit, All U.S. Carriers -Compatible with Verizon, AT&T, T-Mobile, Sprint & More-5G 4G LTE 3G FCC Approved

Overall I am very pleased with the cell booster. While I’m not a daily user on the booster I do use it in a remote area and have it on my 5th wheel trailer. That said let’s go!Pro’sEasy to place unitAntenna is a decent designSupplied cables are long enoughOperationally it’s easy to use but could be confusing with the LED’s tooSignal is surely boosted where it’s needed and does improve the signal even when it’s fringe12v power block is amazing because I cut the brick off and wired directly to my battery so 12v was very important to meCon’sBooster unit is 50 ohm, rest of the components are 75 ohm (see below)Unit shows green lights on it when signal isn’t there or there is oscillation with the signal. This should be yellow or red not green cause green is viewed as “good”. Prior to my below changes I got this on all 5 channels but it worked okNotes for the systemAs I mentioned 50 to 75 ohm mismatch on the cables to the unit, unfortunately this is normal with affordable boosters for one single reason, money. Using correct cables for a cell phone booster costs a lot more money thus will drive the price up a lot more on our end. Yes indeed RG6 does work but having mismatched cables causes a level of frequency oscillation. When it oscillates it can cancel some of the signal out in a way which can also cause you to show solid green on the front of the unit on a specific band or multiple bands.Internal to external antenna position is beyond critical, you need to pay attention to this carefully. If your antenna is pointing to 0 degrees north you should be pointing the inside antenna to 90 degrees or 270 degrees, your antenna should also be bent at 45 degrees or so. You want to insure that inside and outside don’t match the way the antennas are facing / directed. This is another small way to squeeze out any last bit of boostingLast but not least cable / external antenna topic. In the world of cell boosters 50 ohm cable is standard in which the market uses for commercial applications, but in small residential units they go with RG6 for cost reasons. There is no such thing as RG6 50 ohm cable and the correct cable to achieve this is LMR400 cable. It’s very thick and not so flexible but it also helps squeeze out more of the boosting. You’ll need a couple adapters but doing it right you can minimize the adapters. You’ll need one for LMR to RG6 for the booster and one for a wall plate if you choose to use one.Antenna. The antenna that is supplied isn’t a bad parabolic design and does work but it’s also 75 ohm and not 50 ohm. 50 ohm antennas don’t have a RG6 connector on them but have a different toe for the LMR400 so you’ll be able to connect to the unit using the LMR400I replaced the antenna and cable from the booster all the way outside. I was in a spot where I knew cell signal was weak at best being from no service to 1x with a smattering of LTE 1 bar late at night. The booster with LMR took me up to 3 bars of LTE but with a limited distance of about 15’ from the booster unit. Last year same setup, same spot but using RG6 and the supplied antenna I barely got 1 bar of LTE and occasionally it would bounce to 2 bars but it was rare.That said this kit is a solid kit but if you want to squeak out it’s max potential upgrade the RG6 to LMR400 and swap the parabolic antenna for a true 50 ohm antenna of the same style. They do make other antennas from other companies that are a flat panel that are a bit better for when you’re on the fringe as they’re a tad more focused beam wise but you sacrifice with some lower DB increases too so there’s a trade off.Anyway there’s my 2 cents honest review of using it now going into my 3rd year.

Have a very unique blind spot or dead zone in my house, after many attempts working with cell company, a cell phone extender was deemed the best fix. I’ve tried several different brands and models but returned them all until I found this one. Great product, worked out of the box, easy set up highly recommend!!!

I'm a ham radio operator so understand how this functions. It works pretty well as long as you provide long separation between the amp and the antenna. I don't like using 60 feet of coax (due to loss) but most of that length is necessary to keep the unit from going into a feedback loop. It is important to read the user manual carefully. I tested it at home (close to cell towers) with mixed results and way out in the wilderness (far from towers...1 bar) and had excellent signal improvement.

I REALLY wanted this Amazboost A-1 Signal booster to work! I had high expectations after reading the reviews. So, I ordered one from Amazon. The set-up is not difficult, so I did a test run! I took the Yagi antenna outside, mounted it and aimed it in the direction of my cell phone provider tower (AT&T), ran the 50' of RG6 cable from the Yagi antenna, attached it to the booster which was 50' "directly behind" (per the instructions) the direction the Yagi antenna was pointed, attached the indoor antenna to the booster and plugged it in. After plugging in the booster, there are 5 "Alarm" green indicator lights on front of the booster that are supposed to come on for one second, then turn off, which means that it has passed a self-test and is running correctly. Then, if any of the "Alarm" lights come back on and blink or stay on, the booster is "oscillating", which is similar to putting a microphone in front of a speaker......which means signal from the outside antenna is being picked up by the booster and being re-transmitted. So, simply, it begins a "loop" or "feedback" with the signal leaking from the outside antenna being re-transmitted by the booster.....until the device won't work and some or all the "Alarm" lights stay on or blink. To alleviate this, the Yagi antenna are supposed to be at least 30' away horizontally from the booster OR 20' horizontally and 13' vertical and pointed AWAY FROM the booster. I had 50' of cable (min. was 30' horizontally) and I could not prevent the oscillation from happening. The second alarm light never lighted.....either during the startup or during oscillation. So, I returned it to Amazon and re-ordered a second unit, which Amazon made very easy to do.The second unit came, so I set up a test run outside again. I attached the Yagi antenna to a metal post, pointed it in the direction of the cell tower (no metal objects were in front of it), ran the 50' of RG6 cable to the booster (which was directly behind the direction the Yagi was pointed), added the inside antenna to the booster, tightened all connectors, plugged the device in, and the unit's "Alarm" lights lit once for a second (self-test), went off, then they all came back on.......oscillation again. As a test for oscillation, you remove the indoor antenna from the booster, and if the alarm lights go out, then oscillation is the problem. That is exactly what happened when I removed the indoor antenna from the booster......no alarm lights were lit! I readjusted the booster to different locations behind the Yagi. I moved the Yagi antenna around trying to make sure it wasn't backfeeding signal to the booster. All to no avail. Sometimes a couple of the alarm lights would go off, but would return in a few seconds. No amount of "adjusting" of the booster or the Yagi would turn the alarm lights off permanently! So, back this one goes too and I am very disappointed that it wouldn't work. I spent 3-4 hours combined trying to make these work, but couldn't. I'm very glad I didn't run cable inside my home before discovering this anomaly. I would suggest doing a test run before actually running cable and setting up this device. After reading reviews, I think those with a metal roof/building have a better chance of making this device work as the signal from the outside Yagi antenna may not be able to backfeed to the booster thru the metal siding/roof! The instructions, that came with the unit, were easy to understand and thorough. Everything came with the booster needed to set it up, except a pole to mount the device to (which you shouldn't expect anyway). Nice unit! Would have loved to have kept it......if it worked correctly!!Wish this device would have worked! I really worked at making it work correctly, but to no avail.