OONO DPST 1NO 1NC 8Amp Power Relay Module, AC 110V 115V 120V Control Voltage

Reliable relay for a custom circuit

works well in an alarm system. Wiring is labeled correctly

The relay module is much smaller than I expected which is a good thing. The small size made it easy to mount inside the boiler control box. I only had three wires from the boiler control to the heat only thermostat. The battery powered thermostat only required two wires. I was able to use the OONO relay module to convert the unused third wire to a “C” wire by connecting a 24VAC transformer to power the thermostat. In that configuration, I was then able to replace the thermostat with a Honeywell Home RTH9585WF1004 Wi-Fi Smart Color Thermostat. I wired the OONO relay module as follows: 24VAC Transformer output red wire to thermostat R port; 24VAC Transformer output black wire to OONO input green wire and to thermostat C port; OONO input blue wire to thermostat W port; OONO SW1 (normally open) C1 red wire to boiler control S1 port; OONO SW1 No1 black wire to boiler control S2 port. The OONO SW2 (normally closed) wires are unused in this configuration. It works perfectly, no issues.

I'm totally blind! I got this being I needed a relay to be able to connect the 12V output on my driveway monitor to an electronic door sensor that had a switched magnet trigger. The driveway monitor has about an 12V about 150/350MA output. Being this relay required very little power to trigger I figured it would work. So I ttook a chance on it and got it. Being totally blind! I had to use a Talking multi meter to determine what wire whir the closed default connection and open connection. After that, Had to have someone tell me what color the other two wires whir. New one would be hot and the other ground; Just not what was what. If you have the 4 wires on the left and the two on the right with the screw mounts down! The HOT wire is near the top on the right side and is Blue in color. At least that was what I was told. The bottom one on the right is Green and I guessed that would be ground being normally Black or Green is ground. Then again using the talking multi meter found out what was hot and ground coming off the plug for the driveway monitor. Hooked it up and triggered the driveway monitor and heard a click from the relay and the LED on the front of it lit up acording to my light detector. Then when the driveway monitor reset! Hear another click when power was cut. Then clipped off the magnetic switch on the wireless door sensor and connected it up to the lower left 2 wires on the relay for an open connection. Triggered the wireless driveway monitor and the wireless door sensor when using talkback on my cell phone went from Open to Closed status and back to open when the driveway monitor reset. Lastly went into the Alexa App and created the routine that said wen the door sensor named(Driveway Monitor sensor) showed CLOSED then announce through all Echos in the house that "there is a vehicle in the driveway". Then tripped the driveway monitor sensor again and all the Echos announced "there is a vehicle in the driveway". The driveway monitor itself works off of magnetics and detects iorn in the vehicle and not motion. So me this works for what I got it for and I did the wiring myself. Improvement for this is the ground or hot wires could have had a different design. Like one smooth and the other a ruff coding. then a person like myself would have been able to tell by touch what was what.

I installed this on my car to enable/disable the parking lights relay which was faulty, with this module I forced my car to behave as it should, then I did not have to submit my car to an expensive and difficult repair. The chassis, led light and embedded cables are quite convenient and make the installation a breeze.

I ran into the issue where I had to flow-pace a sampler via a flow meter's pulse output. The flow meter had a powered pulse output, and the sampler had a powered pulse input. The two loop powers negated each other, so I had to find a module to de-power the pulse loop, and still provide a dry normally-open contact. This product worked perfectly for very a very reasonable price. This will work for samplers, wireless telemetry systems, SCADA, and anything else needing a dry contact closure. Only the powered loop pulse output is needed. I did not need any additional DC power to power this module. Go With The Flow!

Upgraded my cart to lithium battery and had to rework the charging port to 120v. The original port had a charging interlock switch safety system that prevents the cart from moving when the cord is plugged in and charging. Since that system used the 48v coming in from the charger to send power to the interlock switch, I had to use the 120v power going to the charger in the cart to do the same thing. The easiest option was to tap into the 120v inside the charger which I ran to the relay. The red wire on the NC end goes to the 48v lithium battery and the black wire runs to the charging interlock switch. When the cart isn't plugged in, that switch is closed passing 48v to the interlock switch. When it's plugged in, the relay trips and power is cut to the switch and the cart won't run. I'll probably wire up the unused normally open circuit to some LED lights to show it's charging when plugged in. So you could get two uses out of this relay.

Purchased the relay about three months ago. Tested for input connection and the device seemed to switch fine. Just setup in application and the relay shows change in status, but is not pulling in relay, even though light is lit. Checked continuity of the relay and is fine in closed (not powered mode), but when light is on showing switch active, the relay does not carry current and show no continuity. Missed the return window.