YESWELDER 135Amp MIG Welder,110V Flux Core Welder Flux Core MIG/Lift TIG/Stick 3-in-1 Large LED Digital Display Welding Machine IGBT Inverter Welder FLUX-135PROClimatePartner certified

Update:I've changed my star rating to 5 stars but left my original review so that you to might know what the problem is if your torch gets hot and it does not eld properly.YESWELDER reached out to me and sent me a completely new machine to replace my first one. I still wish they would sell replacement torch for this machine because I was willing to buy it and give it another shot but YESWELDER said they will replace the entire machine even though i said a replacement torch is all that i needed to make me a happy customer.I give this company a lot of respect for making it right. A solid company that stands behind its product AAA+Maybe the machine never had a chance to weld as good as it should have because of the wire connection in the torch not being done correctly. Manufacturing isn't always perfect and the fact that this company understands that says tons about the company. Oh the new machine welds flawlessly. Thank you YESWELDER...Original review.I bought this machine with hopes of it being a nice tool. The machine out of the box looked nice. When I set it up it welds ok. I thought it was because of the wire that came with it so I went and bought some Hobart wire not even 1/10 of the original spool being used. The new wire made no difference. I needed to do some welding repairs on a classic car build and went ahead and used the machine. I have no made it through 1 spool of wire and the handle gets so hot i can not even hold it. When i go to YESWELDERS page they sale every replacement torch for every welding machine under the sun but do not sell one specifically for there own branded machine. The fact that the machine welds sub par was worth 2 stars but not being able to find a replacement torch in a sea of YESWELDER torches is extremely disappointing. This is after 1 spool of wire

So far I've only used the Flux welder setup, to do my first weld job on my broken exhaust pipes. The only issues I had were with the flux core wire included. If you've never used this stuff, once you release the tip of the wire from the roll, it will attempt to completely unroll itself if you don't continue applying tension. You will never get it wound back straight enough once it uncoils, it will loop around itself, it's just a huge mess. I probably wasted about 1/10th of the wire because I had no idea that would happen. Try to keep the welder cord as straight as possible while feeding the flux wire through because if it kinks up you'll have to rip it out, in one piece if you're lucky, 3 if not. In the end, I was able to create a strong enough bead along the 2 broken seams of my exhaust to hold it together firmly, took less than 30 minutes even with hiccups and I only received two small 3rd degree burns!

I am no professional welder, but I am an experienced engineer. Some decades ago I used a cheap stick welder on cars. Now with the 135 amp FCAW or "MIG" welder it is much easier on thin metal. The machine is much smaller and not as heavy, which I do also appreciate. I checked the output voltage and all looked fine. Then I tried it on a small piece of a metal stand for a fan - see picture after I painted it. It worked pretty good. Now it is stable to carry the fan. So the machine paid itself already half off because we do not need to buy a new fan.Here's a trick for thin metal sheets less than 1 mm: To only do sort of a spot weld and not burning holes into the thin metal the wire feed is way too fast. So to spot weld just leave the wire hang out of the nozzle long enough for a few spots and disengage the wire feeder by pulling off the wheel on top of the feeder. That way it won't feed when you press the gun button but it will weld when you hit the work piece with the wire hanging out of the gun. If you need more wire you can either engage the feed again or do it by hand until you get more wire out of the nozzle.Another option is to clamp a piece of wire with the stick welding clamp and use that instead of a welding stick. Just make sure it has the right polarity for MIG welding. Or you could even try to reverse polarity if that works better.The welding machine works fine and I do also like that it has a protection cover over the display and control knobs. Because sooner or later some sparks will hit the machine. What I usually do before I put it back to storage is to pull the wire back by hand into the machine. That way I have no loss of wire and I can disconnect the MIG gun and store it safely.The manual is pretty good, too. Not always the case with those cheap Eastern tools.What I did not test yet is the stick welding and the TIG welding. Stick welding should be fine though. It's much more simple than the FCAW welding and needs no feed. I am not sure if I will ever use TIG welding. I do only small DIY jobs around our home, nothing fancy or huge. A broken leg here and there or a frame part of a generator, swing, etc.Time will tell if the machine is reliable and should I run into problems I'll update my review.Update 9/29/2023:Now I welded a broken frame part of a canopy of a swing. It came apart after wind damage. First kinda "spot" welded then doing the "mig" flux core with the feed over it. Worked out just fine again. Although it was difficult to weld around the holes where the screw goes through. See pics before and after painting. It's also very thin metal. A little less than 1 mm. When using the MIG with about 40 amps and feed there was a lot of build up of metal, so I had to grind that off. Still stable and sturdy, so it has penetrated the frame enough.No issues with the welding machine so far. Did not check the higher amps over 90 yet, but I will probably not need it anyway. Those higher amps are for thicker material like 1/4 an inch or so. I have not many things here which are that thick and need to be welded. It would probably trip my 20 amp breaker anyways after some time. It says on the machine it needs 54 amps for that high of a setting.What I checked was the stick welding, just with the flux wire clamped in and two wires in parallel. That worked as well for the "spot" welding and clamping those 2 pieces of the frame together.In regards to suggest what welder to buy for just DIY small projects people: Forget the higher amps welders. They are more expensive, but not necessarily better for tiny jobs. Higher amps are for very thick metal. Good for pipeline welders or other professional jobs with HD jobs. But for tiny projects it's overkill. All you probably need is 100 amps max and for the most part with thin sheet metal 30-60 amps. Even then it needs some tricks to not burn holes into it. You can also try to use the mig wire to cut off a piece and hold it over small gaps and then weld it with the mig mode. That way you've got a thicker piece together to weld and the gap may be welded over easier. It's no rocket science, it's just hot metal melting and trying to get it back melted together. Whatever works, works!Quick Update 7/12/2024:Regarding the welds above they are still holding strong - no bending or weakness after almost a year. The swing frame outside and also the fan stand.