AITRIP5 Pack ESP32-CAM WiFi + Bluetooth Module Development Board with OV2640 Camera Modulew for Arduino Raspberry Pi

These work fine when programmer from the Arduino IDE using the "AI Thinker ESP32-CAM" board option. All three units worked fine out of the box.Documentation could be better (available?) and as mentioned by others; the manufacturing quality is poor. Not knocking any stars here given the fair price.Some issues/notes I ran across along the way:1. Be prepared to do a little research to get these working- a great place to start are Amazon reviews!2. After programming with an FTDI (3.3v) the unit resets and immediately detects a brownout condition. Simply powering from another source or (with credit to another reviewer here) you can switch over your FTDI to 5.0v (with jumper removed) to get up and running with serial output.3. IF the camera is not detected, this can be an indication that not enough power is available or the camera was not secured properly.4. These can run hot when streaming jpegs- running off a 5V power supply, this was drawing ~.5A using the provided example.5. Be sure to connect to a 2.4Ghz wifi network

So in order to get this to work, in the arduino sketch you select the Camera model AI Thinker. Enter in your ssid and password for your router and make sure you use the 2.4ghz not the 5ghz if you have that option. Program the device using 3.3 volts. Now I had problems running at 3.3 volts, I was getting a brown out error so I moved over my jumper on my FTDI adapter to 5 volts and moved the wire from the esp32 3.3v pin to the 5v pin.Go to the serial monitor on the arduino IDE and press the reset button on the esp32 and hold it for at least 3 seconds then release.You should get info out showing you the IP address that you’re router gave the device.Open chrome or Firefox and enter in that IP address. A screen will come up with all kinds of settings. Go to the bottom of the page and click on the Start Stream button. Now you will see the camera image. Scroll back up and try changing the resolution.Dronebot.com had a very good write up so check him out!I hope this helps someone.

pins soldered crooked on all of them so unable to bread board them. on two the cameras are so far out of focus they are unuseable.(tested by changing the modules to another ESP)not hard to program other wise.

I really like this board. It is capable and inexpensive. It works OK and seems to have a lot of potential uses. There are some big caveats:- It''s fussy about its power supply. It needs more peak current than you might think. Use the 5V pin for power.- No instructions are included. Be prepared to do some research- There are no mounting holes. There's no good way to hold the board.- The camera ribbon is delicate and not robust.- The reset button is on the underside. Reset is not available at a pin.- There's no USB port. A FTDI serial converter board is necessary. Loose wire connections are used.- Supporting software has to be downloaded from multiple locations. It might not be Windows-friendly.

Got what I ordered.Only improvement for me would be if the cameras came with the little adhesive bit on the back like a lot of other similar modules ship with; however, at this price it's not enough of an issue for me to knock off any stars since the products work exactly as they should.

Received the 3 pack and in good shape no shipping damage. I didn’t want to mess with attaching / wiring up FTDI adapter, so I had ordered a board that you plug the Cam into and it has a serial connector. (The board is called a “ESP32-CAM-MB” )So connected the first one to the Arduino IDE and it was seen right away. (I already had the CH340 driver installed) Going into the serial monitor and hitting reset results with a bunch of POST/INIT test output to the screen. I have no clue what it all meansLast few lines below:** 14:11:51.567 -> Card Mount Failed ****14:11:51.567 -> PSRAM OK ****14:11:52.333 -> ESP32-CAM-MB **I put a SD card in and did a reset and the-> Card Mount Failed. -<. Was no longer there. Flashed the camera web server example, went perfect. Connected to WiFi, was able to access the camera from phone, worked good. Now I connected number 2 up and the POST/INIT was only about 2/3 as much output as the first. I did a screenshot of the first one and compared it to this output. Errors on multiple lines and many missing lines. So I flashed it anyway and it did upload without error. Powered it up and on the serial monitor it said it had connected to the WiFi and the IP address was 192.168.0.11, just as the first one. Thought I was good. But no luck, no matter what I did I could not connect to it. Went as far as resetting my entire network but no luck.Let’s try the third one.The third one went just like the first one, flashed, connected to WiFi and was able to access it.Cameras are great in good lighting but poor in low light as with many less expensive cameras. Nor do they claim its good in low light. So not a problem just an observation.I feel confident in this evaluation since by using the adapter I eliminated the possibility that I may have wired it incorrectly if I had used the FTDI unit.Of the two that work, I have used them for several hours and left one running over night and was able to connect the next day.NOTE: Using the example sketch you need to add your SSID and wireless password. Also select the AI THINKER board and remark out the default one.Oh, to attach the camera, the little brown bar, it rotates up, it’s not the slide back type as others are.So long way of saying “2 out 3....”

This unit is the heart of my "Hello Mailman" device which sends me a text message with a picture of my mail in the mailbox. How it works: The PIR detect motion and powers the unit on. When it awakes from a sleep it snaps a picture, connects to my wifi and sends me a picture "You've got mail". Then it goes back into a deep sleep. It runs from a single 16550 battery and has a low 80ma load when powered on. 99% of the time it's in deep sleep mode. The battery should last at least 3 years without a recharge.