POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust, Non-porous Protective Barrier, 32 Fluid Ounces, Gloss Black

I just got a used 48" mower deck for a 'vintage' Wheel Horse lawn tractor circa 1991 - it was in amazing condition except for (obviously) the blade compartment. I decided it was worth the work - it really wasn't that bad except for surface scaly rust and attached grass and the topside looked like new with original paint/belts. This isn't just for car restoration. I found POR-15 with great reviews on Amazon and decided to also get the rust remover/stabilizer. I first bought an inexpensive angle grinder from Harbor Freight (7amp minimum recommended by me) with requisite wire brushes. Three passes and most of the red flaky rust was gone and down to 'black oxide'. About half had shallow pitting but most of the metal thickness was intact. I then applied the metal prep as directed and it turned remaining rust in pits/etc. to a grey-white along with non-rusted areas. You could wipe some of this off on the surface after it dried and I decided to wipe down the entire area to smooth things out. Then came the Gloss Black rust preventive paint - I didn't use any other primer. Two coats with a brush only (larger projects need roller) and I'm amazed - it did indeed dry to a rock-hard finish and brushed on easily - including the rusted caps on the spindle shafts below the blades - the more I began using the more places I found to use it on. The finish really looked great. Now my experience tips many stated elsewhere. MUST have well-ventilated area - like outside for me on a sunny day. If you get it on you it's not coming off until nature dictates so you have to be careful and prepared. There's plenty of time before it sets up so there's no rush. I didn't feel any need to wear a body suit - perhaps on larger projects as others suggest or if you're really sloppy. My two pearls of wisdom having pre-read the other comments about not getting it on the lip of the can and being impossible to open (I can tell this would be correct). I bought a pack of 30ml plastic syringes (from China) thru eBay that are just like medical syringes - you can get larger ones if you need more. Open the can (carefully sitting on flat surface) and put the syringe vertically in the center of the liquid away from the edges and draw up however much you need - it's fairly viscous and requires some effort in pulling and DON'T pull it out - I could do it with thumb and index fingers holding the syringe and other fingers pulling it up. In your other hand hold a paper towel - once the stuff is pulled up lift it above the top of the liquid, let it drip a couple of times, and then bring the paper towel under it to catch any loose drops. This prevented any from getting into the lid groove of the can. I then squirted it into a standard paint roller-type pan with throw-away inserts and dipped brush into (or roller if you choose) and paint away. I also dumped the extra back into the can when finished very carefully. It was ridiculously easy and the can sealed like new and re-opened like new. My arms and fingers weren't too black when done :-) The syringe worked for repeated adding into the roller pan (about 4-5 times). Throw away the brush (or roller), the syringe, the pan insert, and anything else disposable because they'll be rock hard and unuseable again. I thank others for posting comments about this product - it's really fabulous and I can't imagine ever having to revisit this deck for decades. It's that good with a hard as a rock finish. I also found myself touching up a rusty metal rail on our patio and other things and intend to use it a lot more than I anticipated. For those small time users like me asking 'how much do I need' the answer is less than you'd think. This entire deck project used less than 1/4 of the quart (most is left) with two coats. This is why you need to preserve the can lid function - most is still there for other projects and I can think of plenty. Hope this helps - highly recommended!!!

I have used this product to coat automotive parts and seal porosity in fiberglass and metal fuel tanks. Nothing else adheres as well and it resists most liquids when set. Not cheap but a very good product. rbm

Great stuff, did rust on my van, then tested it on several rusty parts left outside, they are currently rust free still

Ok firstly I have only just finished welding and plating entire ranger rear chassis and painted it with POR15 I have no idea of long term durability yet bear that in mind, however this stuff is amazing be sure and properly clean and prepare the base metal preferably with a sandblaster which I did or a qood quality etch primer also a little goes a very long long way I have only used a third of this tin and have painted entire rear chassis with two coats it cures rock hard and appears it will last a long time as for storage I poured the remaining two thirds into an air tight jar and placed in fridge hopefully it will keep but to conclude it is a brilliant paint for vehicle restoration and comes highly recommended 5 stars yes.

Amazing product, it is easy to apply and it stops rust formation and propagation. Clean underlying surface, apply even coat (don’t apply thick), wait for it to dry 24hrs, apply second coat. It is not intended to be a top coat, paint over if it will be exposed to the sun - otherwise it will crack over time. Even used it to protect steel from acid fumes and acid spills, also worked great.