PC Products PC-7 Epoxy Adhesive Paste, Two-Part Heavy Duty, 1lb in Two Cans, Charcoal Gray 167779

This is a much more affordable replacement for JB Weld. It has a long 1 hour working time. It does take a good 24 hours to cure solidly. The first hour it is still malleable by using a alcohol to smooth out the surface. It cures rock hard if you mix it in the right proportions and is mixed thoroughly. It sands very easily. I use this for creating fillets on high powered rocket fins, both plywood or fiberglass. Its easy to work with. It does not run/slide like thinner epoxies which allows you to apply it to multiple locations on your project at the same time. It is pretty thick to mix but is a great product overall. It is super strong. Use tape to mask off the area you don't want it to come in contact with.

It works great, The reason I could not give it higher marks is because you must know what the heck your doing. The epoxy and the resin hardener are not easy to mix and equal portions is most important. It is not a liquid or a gel or even a paste it is a very stiff substance, like C4. But please note that this is where it's strength comes from, and it is not 'easy' to be spread, you should have the right tools and know exactly what you are going to do with it. Cleanup will require something strong if you make a mistake (xylene). The important thing is you can fabricate anything , I have even used it the weld two pieces of hardened plastics. This will outlast any 3D printed piece , and I have used it even on my siding that had a couple of bullet holes. I applied the material in a measured amount, using a flexible putty knife. Then I removed any excess with the aforementioned solvent. A day later in 40 degree weather it hard enough to apply a small hand sander to feather out. Then I painted over it- and viola- bullet holes are gone and can now sell my house without question. Fixed broken lamps, works great with metal and glass and hard synthetic surfaces. Not the best for softwoods- lastly- as long as you don't mix it it will last forever- I still have some that was from 35 years ago, and I tried it wondering how it would do. The catalyst did take about twice as long to work but in two days it was as hard as a rock- It's aquarium safe- but wait a few days for complete cure and then was product of with soap and rinse well

I find a lot of excellent and helpful reviews here that all acknowledge that this is a demanding and challenging material to work with UNLESS you know what you are doing and THEN it is a very strong and long lasting material with many uses. Xylene is practically necessary. The value of being able to clean mixing surfaces and application tools INSTANTLY can't be overstated. This is probably the most difficult mixing I've seen with any material but it always works with the right tools and a little patience and the result is a heavy thick paste that gravity can sag before it fully sets hours later. That elastic strength is why it is one CRITICAL step in many demanding situations. I often like to use a thinner penetrating mixture first and follow it with this before fully cured until almost flush. Then I will usually finish with a finishing mix skim coat. Works great for me. I recommend every handy man or woman that doesn't know this stuff to get some to experiment with. Then you'll know what you're doing and what you can do with it. It lasts for years, even half used. I won't be without some on hand. Note: don't try to work this before it is half cured when you can scrape and carve it beautifully with different tools. Sanding shouldn't be attempted before full cured. Once cured, a lot of rocks wish they were this strong and the bond will be crazy good if you follow the easy steps.

I used PC7 as a filler to level an uneven tile that had shifted about 1/4 inch lower than the rest. The product worked really well—it's thick, easy to mold into place, and hardens solid. I left it to cure for about 48 hours to ensure maximum strength, and it held up perfectly. Highly recommend for similar leveling or repair jobs. Only down side is sanding after if needed. It leave the finish very rough and may want to paint after

I had a very unusual project. My son has a pet moray eel that is extremely friendly, but needed a home in the aquarium. As you can imagine, a moray eel is not a small pet so the home had to be large and durable. The home is a maze constructed from 4" PVC pipe and many elbows to create tunnels for the eel. There several openings within the maze for the eel to escape or enter the maze. Once the maze was built we wanted to disguise the maze a a rock cliff. Florida base rock (A very porous rock, that is cream in color) seemed like the best choice to make the bottom of the tank and back of the tank look like the ocean floor. The issue is that the what every epoxy we selected to bind the rocks to the PVC would have to hold up to the harsh elements in a saltwater aquarium and the abuse from a moray eel. In addition to being able to bond rock to PVC. I watched a video from a website where another individual used PC-7 to bond rock in his saltwater aquarium. The PC-7 was very easy to work with. It is a two part epoxy. Simply mix can A with can B. It gives you plenty of time to work with the epoxy before it sets. Once set, the bond is permanent. Even the harsh elements of being in saltwater does not influence the bond. The eel loves his new home and darts through the maze like a small fish, even though he is several feet long. The home is very realistic, and as a SCUBA diver, I can say it looks like the bottom of the ocean. I would highly recommend this product to anyone that needs a permanent bond that will hold up through any harsh conditions.

Prepare ahead to mix and you'll need gloves and sticks you may want to throw away. Solves while damp with household vinegar. Once it is set it is pretty tough to get off and got some in a tiny crack in my rough hands and it had to be removed like a splinter once it dried. Easiest to simply take both whole cans and put both together on a discardable hard surface (6" x 12" piece of dustless plywood scrap)to mix well. I used plastic painters knives to quickly mix and apply and that worked very well. Cheap enough to use the whole can and make ENOUGH to use all at once. Like I said prepare ahead. Essentially a gooey epoxy that hardens into a VERY tough bond. If it touches a surface (skin etc) then it will stay on it SO remove with household vinegar while damp. The data sheet shows thousands of pounds of tensile strength per sq inch when cured and supported. Not for use around fire etc but in a wooden boat it is excellent to fill and then mill an area. I would tend to use this to fill an area that is well supported rather than put it out on the end of an arm etc as a primary strength point. If you put a greased bolt into the stuff the bolt will back out and leave threads if that does not work heating the bolt with a soldering iron briefly will let it back out also. This can take a thread well if supported well and cured. More for tertiary strength than primary strength (in my opinion) on critical equipment. A very thin coat comes off (pops off) a smooth surface so unless it is affixed to the substrate properly by roughening the substrate a surform will take off a cured thin coat easily. Works best to create a tough bond in an area rather than cosmetic patches. Appears to be pure epoxy without fiberglass fibers unlike Bondo. I will use it when I repair my mast step as opposed to other epoxies. Sands and surforms (micro plane) and scrapes very well once set completely on a roughened surface. Get all amine blush and waxes and oils off the substrate before affixing the PC....

Used this stuff to repair a pitted, rusty bulkhead door. Cleaned the rust to shiny bare metal (important!) with a grinder then smeared the epoxy on with a putty knife. Worked great. I highly recommend wearing disposable gloves cuz this stuff is thick and sticky. 50/50 mix makes measuring simple. Use a stiff knife on a board or other stiff surface. A paper cup won’t cut it! Mix well. Hardens in 24 hours if 70 degrees.

Consistent good results: I used it for two weeks now and made about 6-7 batches to glue metal banisters into the handrail of my staircase. Each batch cured well and there seems no difference in the end result despite the fact that I didn’t measure anything. I just eyeballed as best as I could. Work time: I actually don’t know! I used each batch within about an hour after mixing at about 70 degrees and low humidity. I noticed it got a little stiffer, but otherwise still as sticky as before. Cure time: After 24 hours it was very hard but had some minimal flexibility and after 48 hours it appears fully cured. However, this material doesn’t become brittle, which is important for my application as there is always going to be movement between the wood and metal. Consistency of paste and mixing: Each component has a distinctive different consistency. The light gray (part 1) is somewhat crumbly, grainy and slightly sticky. You can get it easily out of the can and reasonably well of the spatula that I used to scrape it out of the can. The pitch-black hardener (part 2) is a totally different story. It is annoyingly sticky and although thick, will slowly flow. Think of ultra-thick honey. This makes it a pain to get out of the can and very difficult to get off the spatula. Now to the mixing part. Somewhat difficult because it is sticky and thick, but within 3-5 minutes you end up with a dark grey paste that has the consistency of chewing gum. When you try to lift a small amount off the mixture, you will stretch the material until it gets thin enough to break off. For me, the best tool was a disposable chop stick which I rolled back and forth to capture the stretched-out material. Stickiness: I had to work it into the wood grain for it to stick well. For example, if I would drop a small amount on a smooth surface, I would suspect you could easily pry it off once it is cured. But once it is pressed into place it will never come off. Flow properties while uncured: As I alluded to before, this material will flow a little bit over the course of 1-2 hours. In my case, I had to smear it into the holes at the bottom of the handrail. It worked reasonable well, but you can't put too much in the hole or it will slowly flow out.

Lo utilice para sellar fugas en una fuente y hasta el momento todo bien.

fast delivery with cirrect product

I've now used this twice to repair stone stairs - once to prevent a crack from growing and the second time to reattach a big chunk of stone that had cracked off when the installers put in the railing. It worked amazing both times. The stair is as solid as it was before the damage. Highly recommend this product.

Ich habe viel ausprobiert. Auch auf Empfehlung. Aber als ich PC-7 das erste mal verwendet habe wusste ich gleich. Jetzt ist alles gut. Wichtig ist nur aus Erfahrung eine Aushärtezeit von mindestens 2-3 Tagen. Ich übertreibe nicht ! Das ist der beste 2 K Klebstoff den ich je verwendet habe. Mittlerweile schon seit 1 Jahr für viele Kundenaufträge oder Privat und ich hatte nie irgendwelche Beanstandungen. TOP !! Danke PC-7 und an deren Entwickler

worked on my gas tank. sets up hard and stays where you put it. It does not run. The set time can be slow but speeds up with a little heat.