E3D Genuine Hardened Steel Nozzle V6 (1.75mm) 0.40mm (V6-NOZZLE-HS-175-400)

I started using PLA with carbon fibber and purchased this nozzle long time ago. I waited to make this review until a couple of time of wearing but I still using the same nozzle with no change, It doe snot clog at all but if happen you can rise really high the temperature so it has a wide performance.I works really good with simple PLA but also works flawless with carbon fibber materials as well with no issue at all.I really recommend this one also for the price

The nozzle prints quite nice at slow speeds under 80 mm/s. Unfortunately due to my specific setup (LDO 2504AC) I get some massive VFA when I print less than 200 mm/s and a ton of resonance at 60-110 mm/s (I normally push 228 with nickel plated copper). This has led me to raising abs temps from 265 to 290 to compensate but it just doesn’t want to flow right and adhere at those speeds due to it being steel and me now just learning about this (oops). A better fit for me would be a tungsten nozzle. Not really the nozzle’s fault because it is tough as nails and survived a slow bed crash and the blob of death along with a ton of brass brushing. I’ll just keep it around as a spare because it’s part of the funny history of my printer now.

I bought my first one of these nozzles about 2 years ago, I am only just now buying a replacement for it and that is with tons of hours of print time under it. Great Nozzle, albeit do need to tweak the settings. On Brass for PLA I have been needing to hit about 220C vs the 200C with a brass nozzle, but considering how long it was before it seems the time to swap it out really serves to indicate the quality on these.Probably should have reviewed it sooner, but oh well.

I bought this nozzle because I was tired of blowing through brass ones. I mostly print PLA, and while the occasional PLA print isn't enough to burn out a brass nozzle very quickly, printing for a few hundred hours every month certainly can, in my experience.Fit and finish seems very consistent, and the nozzle lets a high E string from a guitar slip through clean, though those run smaller than the 0.4mm the nozzle is supposed to be, so I can't verify the internal diameter.I had to raise my printing temp for PLA from 195C to 215C (an increase of 20C) to get PLA to extrude properly. An alternative may be allowing the hotend to pre-heat for 10-15 minutes prior to running a print, but many of my prints only take that long in general. Also, while I was previously able to use 6mm retraction with the brass nozzle, the steel one seems more temperamental about retractions beyond 4-5mm (which, to be fair, is the maximum suggested retraction rate from E3D themselves).It is worth noting that, if your print quality is absolute garbage after using this nozzle, your unit is defective. This happens at a certain rate in precision machining. If this is the case for you, request a replacement immediately. In the past, E3D has allowed me to return one of their products with the same fault 5 times in a row until I got a working one. It happens and is unfortunately just part of mass production of precision equipment.Overall, it's working fine so far. I'll update this review if any serious issues arise.Follow-up:After having a few patchy prints arise after changing to another spool of filament, I found that the E-steps and flow rate needed to be adjusted. This makes me think that either the nozzle diameter isn't quite right, or the pocket inside of the nozzle is larger than in the brass ones. In any case, simply updating your E-steps and adjusting the flow rate accordingly got rid of the problem. I'm also getting prints on par as with my brass nozzle, so people who are saying this nozzle "ruins" their print quality either received defective units or didn't re-calibrate their printer to support the new nozzle.

This is really well made as expected from E3D. In warmer weather, I was printing everything normally, maybe adding 5 degrees to the standard filament settings in my slicer to compensate for the steel's lower heat transfer, and was planning to just leave this on permanently.But as colder weather has set in and the ambient temperature in the room has cooled off, I've had a lot of issues with clogging even at 20 degrees or more above the original settings, especially in prints with large flat areas. This can also be compensated for by slowing down to allow the steel nozzle more time to heat the filament but personally, I'm switching back to brass for the winter.