BestEquip Metal Lathe 7" x 14",Mini Metal Lathe 0-2500 RPM Variable Speed,Mini Lathe with 4" 3-jaw Chuck,Bench Top Metal Lathe, Benchtop Lathe, for Various Types of Metal Turning

TLDR: I would buy this lathe again, every day of the week, and twice on Sundays.The Good: All of the critical to function parts of the lathe worked out of the box and seem to be able to achieve the tolerances I expected. I'm not a machinist, but I am a Statistical Analyst, so I speak math. I've only done about 1/3 of the suggestions to improve runout I've been able to find, and I'm already making chips and making projects successfully. My expectation is that as I learn how to use the lathe and use better quality steel, I should be able to at least cut the error in cuts in half by making my skills better, and the tolerances are already good enough(for now).The Average(as expected): This lathe is not a "Hizzly" 7x14 lathe and you are not paying for the hand holding that "Hizzly" provides in their user experience. I was first given incorrect tracking information. The company I ordered from replied within 12 hours and corrected that. The crate the lathe comes in is substantial, but obviously took some whacks in shipping. Several small parts were broken out of the box. None were critical enough for me to return a working machine in mostly good shape. Many of the beginners projects suggested on line are to make upgrades advance wheels/handles/fittings/etc. anyway. Several parts were slightly bent, again, not badly. The lathe required cleaning before use as expected.Summary: This lathe cost me about 1/4 of the price of a similar "Hizzly". I would estimate it to be 80% as "good" as the top brand in function. In my mind that's a huge win. I've already successfully made a Hydraulic Deprimer Punch for Berdan Shells, which required +- 2/100th mm tolerance. Most of the error in the cuts is still me. I'm using HF brazed carbide tooling I sharpened myself as required, and this seems to cut steel just fine with 3/100th mm spring cuts offering a finish that can be smoothed and chamfered with a light file and sandpaper . Bottom line is that what this lathe does it does well, but not perfectly, and I feel like I got more than I paid for. I'll take 80% of the utility for 25% of the cost every time.

From start to finish: I unboxed it and everything appeared nicely packed. I assembled it until I got to the tail stock. I'm not sure but I'm thinking I am missing a bracket that goes in the bed so when you use the tighten lever the tailstock is secured to the bed. Anyways, I cleaned it up and inspected the unit. I found that the drive belt seems a bit "loose" and upon turning the lathe on the belt makes noise like it's flapping against something. The manual is limited and does not say if there's a way to apply tension to the belt or an adjustment. It also doesn't tell where to get spare belts or parts so I have no idea how big the belt is or what # of teeth it's designed for. Moving on...after verifying everything was in order, I did a test run on a 3/4 inch piece of soldered pipe. I removed the solder as seen in the pic, and then took 0.2mm off in 0.05mm increments the best I could gauge it. Checked with calipers each time and it appeared it was pretty close, 0.01mm close. It came with a "wife-size" toolbox as I call it because my wife is shorter than me and well it's all for some humor after lugging a 100 lb lathe through the house and down the cellar by myself. I'm giving it 3 stars for now due to the missing part and loose belt and the fact there is no way to contact the manufacturer in the book, nor can I find a way on here to contact the seller. I'll try to re-evaluate in a month providing I can fully utilize all functions on the machine.--UPDATE--So after no return message from customer service, I decided to make the missing part under the tailstock. The Lathe itsself works pretty well, though the washers that hold the motor adjustment are really soft so if you tighten them too much they start to bend. I increased to 4 stars due to the fact that I've thrown some heavy metal on it this week and it turned it pretty good and took some deep cuts. The plastic gears have held up but I will probably order metal to be on the safe side. I do wish it had indicator lights in case you forget to hit the power switch, you would know it's still on, and a light for fwd and for rev. Also, would it have hurt to put a $13 RPM display on this? Otherwise, The tail stock was pretty centered from factory. Mine didn't have any grub screws to lock the location other than the one at the bottom, so I had some laying around I put into it to lock it into position then tighten the bottom one. Had to add washers to the bottom of tail stock otherwise the spring would find it's way up the hole to the center. Update 01/24/25 I've used it quite a bit, upgraded to a quick change tool post, added my own RPM display. The DC motor isn't strong enough to turn steel at the suggested RPM of 80-120 in the machinist's handbook, 300-250 is ideal on this. An AC motor would be a great improvement. Also, Mine did not come with high/low gear like the display says on the speed dial (0-1000, 0-2500). Its a bit misleading. I also put metal gears in the machine. I can deal with a little increased noise if it means more rigidity and piece of mind. I installed an indicator for threading which is not included on this machine. I added a Red LED indicator light so I know that the power is still on even with RPM set to 0. I replaced the inner bearings with better ones and I have taken a max cut of 7 thousandths cut with no problems on steel (450RPM). The worm screw could be a higher number TPI for better chips, some stringing happens as the worm screw is a bit fast of a feed. I use manual a lot due to this. Overall, it's held up to various projects so far. May put an AC sewing machine motor in and eliminate the DC motor for more torque. Its the same price as a replacement DC motor for this.