DIGITEN 1/4" Automatic Shut-Off Valve with Quick-Connect Fittings For RO Reverse Osmosis(Pack of 2)

Basic ASO valve, works as expected. Can't speak to the actual pressures that trigger the valve as I didn't measure them, but it seems to be standard. If you have an RO system with a mechanical float in the tank that plugs the output tube and develops backpressure that way (like on an office water cooler), the minimum pressure differential may not ever be reached to trigger the valve and shut off the flow, and it might cause it to flutter or make a loud and annoying buzzing sound. Your RO membrane will continuously pump out wastewater, obviously a major problem. A fix for this is to run the wastewater output through the high pressure side of the ASO valve (side that says In and Out, not the side with the screws) instead of the feed water going into the RO membrane like the typical configuration requires. Wastewater comes out at a lower pressure than incoming city/well water, so the difference between wastewater and clean RO output water will be closer, and the valve will actually open and close quickly like it should. It's not a perfect fix, since running high-TDS wastewater through the ASO valve will make it gunk/mineralize up faster. But they're dirt cheap to swap out, and it definitely beats the hassle of retrofitting a solenoid and electric float switch into a setup that wasn't designed for it.

I replaced a "whistling" shut off valve with this one. It is working great.

First of these 2 replacement valves worked fine, stored the spare. Happy with our RO unit about 25 yrs now…install hints?: Cut off water pressures from house and RO tank, and before removing old valve, note the in/out valve end labels, also record the 4 line locations (pic, labels, or notes). Remove small plastic line locking c-clips. To remove lines, push in the locking collars and pull line out. (can also use open end 5/16” or 8mm wrench to help pushing in these quick release collars, saves fingernails). Reinstall lines on new valve, make sure they push all the way in (about ½”), then pull outward firmly to seat. Apply plastic line lock clips. If you have a seating leak afterward, remove the ¼” line, and cut off the line’s end. (seating portion only, it probably has surface scratches seeping). Two notes: #1. You can damage/foul these valves when plunging clogged sink drains. If you need to use a plunger, first remove the sink drain ¼” RO drain pipe hose, then wrap towel/rag around the ¼” drain hole opening to catch those small pressure squirts while plunging your sink drain. #2: Occasional gurgling drain sound when unit is removing the wastewater in normal operation? You can shove the ¼ “drain line into the drain pipe a tad further so it drains down the far inside of the sink pipe, and no gurgle. We prefer to leave line inserted slightly and let normal occasional RO wastewater fall/gurgle somewhat down into drain pipe's water trap. A consistent gurgling when close by the sink will let you know when the valve has finally failed and is wasting water all day. Excessive gurgling sounds because you are using more than your usual needs in filter water? Perhaps you just want to silence it for company coming into kitchen? Put your sink drain plug into the gurgling drain side, that muffles the sound.

My Watts RO-PURE was installed April 2011 and has operated flawlessly, that is until recently, when I noticed the drain line was running constantly. Referenced several YouTube videos to diagnose this problem. With water supply on/tank valve ball valve on or off, water flowed to the drain saddle. However, with water supply off/tank ball valve on, no water flowed into the drain line, indicating a faulty automatic shut off valve. The valve was easy to replace and this part fixed the issue, for less than 1/2 the cost of a replacement valve sold by the manufacturer. Highly recommend.

I replaced an air gap faucet with a less expensive, more attractive and easier to find non-air gap faucet on my RO system by installing this air-gap valve under the counter. I think this set up makes for a better and simpler installation with easier to replace separate components. I looked long and hard before I found this reasonably priced product which works very well. And I have a spare!

I find it hilarious that the review is asking me to rate "flavor", I'm not sure I'd like to taste these valves to find out (and rating the water has nothing to do with the valve!). So humor aside, this was my situation: Water was leaking from the airgap in the faucet of my Watts Premier RO Pure+ system. Determined that there was no drain blockage or excess loop. Determined that even after shutting off tank valve, faucet, and ice maker line, system kept filtering water (and creating waste brine) without stopping. Culprit here being the ASO valve, though I had no idea if this would have any affect on the airgap leak. Apparently we'd all tuned out the gurgling noises and thought them normal. I shut off all water to system while I waited for replacement ASO valves. Yay lugging bottled water! FWIW one of my new valves arrived with one of the blue clips floating in the package, no big deal, just make sure you have them all to start. Remove all 4 blue clips. Install tubing in correct orientation, following previous install. Check internet if needed, this valve was pictured but not mentioned in my system's manual. Reinstall blue clips into their previous locations (this involves gently pulling on the tubing until the collets come away from the valve enough to fit the clip). These clips help prevent you from accidentally knocking the tubes out when doing other under-sink things, thus preventing other kinds of leaks. My previous ASO valve did not have them and I was fortunate to not have any leaks from it, but can't be too safe with water imo. With the drain hose detached from the sink drain, I turned the water back on to the filters and tank. Water drained as expected (into a bucket, of course). Turning off the tank valve showed the valve worked, the filters stopped draining water as they should. Huzzah! Checked faucet - no leak (yet?) - reassembled drain, opened valve to tank, let everything refill. Waited. No leaks! Huzzah again! Apparently a faulty ASO valve and the constant draining must cause enough pressure to build up in the line into the faucet causing the airgap to leak water. This isn't a common issue apparently, and 99% of troubleshooting tells you other problems can occur due to a faulty ASO but never mentions water out of the airgap. Hope this helps someone else!

As stated by others, if you have a RODI setup and float shut off, you will need to plumb the high pressure end to the waste water. This was the only way I could get it to full shut off. Filtered water to in side of valve, out to collection container on screw side of valve. Waste water from rodi to in side of valve, out to sink.

This will happen to most RO units at some point: You'll wake up to no more water in the tank. No water flowing into the filters and no discharge water. Everything just stopped. You can try and be thrifty and pull the existing piece out, take it apart and try to clean the rubber valve pieces inside. Trust me, that may work for a short period, but it will lock uo again quickly as it's just worn out. These until work just like any oem unit for any RO unit at a fraction of the cost! Give it a try, plus you get a spare until to set down by the RO to use if it happens again (5-10 yrs down the road).

Works like a wonder, and at this price for 2 is unbeatable + I used it at "Reliance Osmosis."

Bought this to replace my original auto shut off and it workes great so far. It has been over a year now. I will be buying again when i need one.

I bought these used to replace the one I currently have in my reverse osmosis system. This is great so i also have one for next time. I will purchase these again. Highly recommend

The Shut-Off Valve was easy to install, and it works like the original but for a lot less cost.

My HiKins RO system has been in for about 7 months and I love it, Great Water! I have been having a problem with the ASO valve vibrating or chattering against the metal frame of the RO unit causing a very loud vibrating noise when the RO water is running. This then began to happen intermittently for several minutes at a time through the day and night. (VERY ANNOYING NOISE!!!) & water was going to drain when this noise was happening when no RO water was running?? With the help of Jason from HiKins customer support. I decided to get a new ASO valve. apparently they can get clogged with carbon bust from the 2nd & 3rd stage filters and cause the vibrating noise I was getting. I installed the new Valve today and ran the RO water and the noise was gone YAY!! ALSO the valves arrived next day UNBELIEVABLY FAST DELIVERY WOW!!! NOTE.... When you replace your filters run them under the tap to rinse out any loose carbon dust in them before installing them in your RO unit this will help to save your ASO valve from getting clogged up with carbon dust like mine bid and keep your RO unit running nice and quietly. If you are getting this vibrating noise from your RO unit change out the ASO valve and fix the problem, also a bit of thin packing foam wrapped around the ASO vale will help to stop it from vibrating against the metal frame of the RO unit. I think they tend to vibrate a little when the RO water is running. If you need any help with your RO unit go to the HiKins web site and email their Customer Support team Jason was very helpful and Their Customer support is A1!! PROBLEM SOLVED!!! Thanks Hikins & Jason!!!