Protective Coating 163337 Woody Epoxy Paste, 12 oz Container

I have never used another wood putty or epoxy, bondo or any other wood filler so I do not have anything to compare it to but I like the results and it does what the manufacturer says it will do.I had extensive termite damage to the trimming, casing and door jambs on my front door and also around the garage doors but not as bad. I would have rathered replaced the jambs for the same price (because I needed 24 oz.) but I do not have the router, level and other tools I would have needed for the cutouts and locks.After removing all the damaged sections, the bottom of the jambs on both sides were pretty much gone and a section at the top of the left jamb about 8" high and the width of the jamb. I used 1/4" plywood for backing and support at the bottom of the jams and a piece of aluminum sheet metal for backing and support with angle brackets cut to fit and epoxy glued to each side of the sheet metal to form and strengthen the corners. The angle brackets worked well, the holes adding extra grip for the wood epoxy. If I had thought about it, I could have put bolts in the holes for the wood epoxy to form around and add more structural support.Before applying the epoxy I used PC Products PC-Petrifier to harden the wood and help the epoxy adhere to the wood. Mixing was easy enough, I used a piece of plastic to mix on. Applying the epoxy with putty knives is straight forward but it does start setting up fairly quickly so I mixed small batches which gave me more time to shape and form it. Once it starts getting too tacky it can no longer be worked with but before it gets to that point you can use isoprobyl alcohol to extend its useful working time. Once it dries it is very hard and is tan in color, similar to wood. I had no problem sanding it like regular wood and hammering nails into it. I also painted over it.The only negative is that it is fairly expensive. I will definitely recommend PC-Woody to others and I will use it again. It is easy to use and the job looks great when finished. PC-Petrifier also worked very well.

Works great! If used properly. Took me several tries to get it right. I used it to repair a rotten part of the door frame, the bottom part, a big hole about 14"x4", all the way through the door. I wanted to save money and try to repair it, instead of replacing the door. Be sure and first dig out all the rotten wood. I couldn't believe the big hole I was left with! I thought nothing would be able to repair it..and nothing can repair it, except this stuff, resin epoxy. Forget about using wood filler, wood glue, etc. I tried them. They won't set hard enough, if you have a big hole to repair.1st time, I didn't mix it thoroughly enough (it's very thick and hard to mix), and it didn't set properly all the way through. Had to dig it out and start over. Mix and keep mixing (press & smear hard) with a 2" metal putty knife. A wooden paint mixing stick will break. Take extra time to really smear the ingredients together, until get one solid color. If you leave any streaks, it won't set up evenly and there will be soft spots.I had to buy about five 2-can sets, so have enough to fill the big hole. Buy some extra one's in case you goof up the 1st time or underestimate the hole size. Use the thin bonding liquid (not included) to help it flow and bond to natural wood. Carefully and quickly paster the mixed resin into the hole, being careful to adopt it to the good wood. After about 15-20 min (it was a hot day in Texas), it starts to set and over time sets as hard as a rock. Use a thick sheet of plastic (with very thin coat of vasoline-to keep resin from bonding to the plastic) or use wax paper for the back side. Then lay the undersideside on something sturdy, like a piece of heavy cardboard or plywood. Otherwise, gravity will cause the material to slump on the underside, as it's setting...and it's very hard to sand and remove the big 1/2" slump on the bottom-side, because it's hard as a rock. Unless you want to sand all day, go buy a belt sander to smooth it up. It was my first time to use a belt sander and it worked great and was fun to use, with heavy grit paper. Later lighter grit. Forget about a rotary sander, not heavy duty enough, unless it's a very small hole. Set up 24 hrs and paint.

This epoxy worked great to repair the rotten wood in an exterior door frame. It spread like peanut butter, and it had a working time of about 30 minutes. It was easy to fill in gaps, but difficult to shape the filling for a large area. A block of wood covered with wax paper helped me to form corners, but the epoxy stuck to some of the wax paper probably because the paper got wrinkled. The epoxy formed a good seal with the metal threshold, so it was almost like a permanent waterproof caulk. After it dried, I chiseled and sanded the epoxy, and it acted like real wood. It took the primer and paint like wood, and our door is now more durable than a new door. A popsicle stick got more of the last bit of paste out of the cans than I could have gotten with the putty knife.

I love epoxy product, and I gave Woody a go to repair some rotted wood. I found the consistency like peanut butter, as stated in some reviews. It also took too long to cure, and drooled down my project. I would up removing a lot of it and going back to my mainstay: Sculpwood. I was attracted to this product because of the positive reviews and the lower price (Sculpwood is pricey) but I just found it too difficult to work with. I don't like giving low reviews, but Woody and I just didn't get along.