Siraya Tech Blu Nylon 3D Printer Resin Nylon-Like Strong and Precise High-Resolution 405nm UV-Curing Rapid Resin for LCD DLP 3D Printer and 8K Capable (1kg, Nylon Black)

Very tough, virtually no odor, very accurate. Needs to be at 25°C to print well, as it's fairly thick. Slightly translucent very dark blue/purple. Can be dyed opaque black with RIT Proline dye. (Don't waste your time trying to use the new consumer dye - it's garbage. The old stuff works if you have any though.) Best print settings with an Anycubic Photon Mono X seem to be 3 burn-in layers @ 14 sec. / 2.6 sec exposure time 50um layers. You need to be certain that the bottom of your build plate is flat and parallel to the LCD. I had to surface mine on a milling machine with a 6" flycutter to get it flat. Had to take off almost 0.010". If it's not dead flat you will probably have print failures. If you don't have a milling machine (why not?) then you should be able to get it flat with various grades of wet/dry sandpaper and a [minimum] 1/4" thick glass plate. Start with 80g and go up to about 320 max. in 4 steps. Start with 320 to see how far off it is first. If it's as far off as mine was, you will be there quite a while. Or mill it. Best way to get perfect prints (on any machine that uses the same clamping setup as the Mono X) - loosen the build plate screws , home the machine (do NOT put a piece of paper on the LCD - put your vat on the machine - empty, of course). Once the machine is homed, lightly press it against the LCD and tighten all the screws. Raise the build plate, loosen the clamp knob, and insert a piece of 0.003-0.005" thick paper between the build plate upper support and the carriage effectively raising the build plate by ~0.005". This also seems to damp some of the vibrations inherent in the machine resulting in better print detail. This only works on machines that clamp the plate to the carriage the way the Mono X (or regular Photon Mono) does it. BE CAREFUL - if you don't know what I'm talking about, don't try this - you may end up breaking your LCD. If you have difficulty getting prints off the base, try sticking it in a deepfreeze for a few hours. The print should just slide off. Put something under it in the deepfreeze to catch drips. Please note that any food in the freezer that isn't totally sealed will end up smelling/tasting like resin. Don't assume that something is sealed just because it's in a box. Ask me how I know...

I was looking for a resin to make structural parts with, and this does a great job. At a thickness of 1/8 inch or more, it's very sturdy, approaching the strength and smoothness of injection molding. I had to put it in a vise and bend it with a channel lock to break it. At thinner gauges, it's flexible enough to bend 180 degrees before breaking, and can be stiffened by mixing with more rigid resins to get a mix of stiffness and flexibility. But you will need a small heater to work with this resin well, as it requires 30°C to get it runny. I am using this heater https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07573FKSG?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title plugged into a digital thermostat https://smile.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01I15S6OM?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title to regulate the resin temperature. You'll need to find a way to attach the heater and the thermostat probe underneath the red cover, and warm it up 5-10 minutes before printing. I attached the heater at the top end of the z axis on the right side, out of the way of the build plate, and attached the temp probe to the left side. Just set the thermostat to turn on at 30° and off at 31° to keep warm. Easy.

Major NOTE: make sure your resin is about 75-80 degrees F when printing. Only problem I ever had with this stuff after over a year and a half using it was the one instance I printed around 65D F. Other than that its gonna stick to your build plate and not give you any issues. I love this stuff. Used the chitubox settings from there web site and ran a calibration print. the very first calibration print was not only perfect(Phrozen mini 8k) but was better than many of my other resins that I have calibrated. Plate adhesion is good. its not going to stop bullets and is about as flexible as me at 5AM but its much better than standard proto resins.

I bought this resin specifically to test the strength of prints against breaking when dropped. In dropping it on a hard tile floor, it resisted breaking initially, but after a few falls, a piece did snap off. It's definitely not as strong as I hoped, but better than other resins I've tried.

Prints great if you get it right

Finally a material that prints well. The only caveat it you must heat your resin to 90 degrees to print. I'm actually printing about 100 F. I've hated this printer since day one and never had a print once and done. However this material heated up prints a fairly strong and useful part on first go. This material has very good wear and doesn't warp after print. I do have some stretching during print. I used recommended setting and all is well.

Print it straight, use it as an addictive. If you print it pure, I recommend you follow the heat + UV directions from the manufacturer.

Definitely going to be my go to resin for tool style prints! Has a pretty good tolerance also! Printed a lot sharper looking and smoother then the other tough resin i have been using from a different company! Very happy with the quality the pricing and the durability of this resin! Super easy to use Ive made part after part with it and havent had a failed print yet! I just ran it with the normal print settings for my printer!

Résine de grande qualité, comme toujours avec la marque Siraya Tech. La résine BLU est un peu plus souple que la Fast et est donc moins cassante. Par contre, elle est plus odorante durant l'impression.

I print with this resin on a Elegoo Mars Pro, a Anycubic Mono X and an Anycubic M7 Pro and Sirayatech Resin is great. This is the resin I had the least printing errors with.

Todo bien.

Functionally the best resin I've ever used. Tough and strong, relatively easy to print. Low odour.

Una gran resina con excelente resistencia, para prototipos funcionales es la mejor opción