34 Pict-3 Carburetor For VW Beetles Super Beetles 1971-1979 Dual Port 1600cc Air Cooled Type 12V Engine Electric Choke Volkswagen Bug Bus Thing Karmann Ghia Squareback Transporter #113129031K

I have used several of these on single port vw builds and they work just fine. I hate to say it but it was easier then rebuilding an original that may give you mixed results depending on how worn it is.

For the price it's good deal! V W carburator.

It cured my idle circuit problem of rough/no idle and the flat spot when accelerating. I ordered it from Amazon last night at 6 PM and they delivered it this morning at 4 AM. I inspected inside the bowl and everything was good to go. I left the 127 main jet and the 55 idle jet as received and did not change to the extra 137 main and 60 mm idle jets. I fine tuned the idle air/fuel mixture (smaller screw on driver side of carb) and then set the idle at 900 RPM using the bigger screw. Then I also set the choke/idle screw to match the RPM I had set before using the bigger screw on the driver side. Then I set the SVDA distributor timing at 30 degrees at 3000 RPM with the vacuum advance disconnected (with a piece of tape over the end of the port on the card to prevent a vacumn leak). After timing, I removed the tape and connected the vacumn advance hose to the carb vacumn port. Runs great now!

My old carb on my 1600 was running ok but I wanted to rebuild it and this thing was almost the same price. I see and have heard a lot of folks throw these on without adjustment. Well mine got 4 stars because it was pretty far out of adjustment. Oh it ran alright, but I had to turn in the choke idle adjustment to get it to idle which these are not designed for that. General internet lore all over say 2.5 on both side screws on the left side after you lightly bottom them out, then fine tune from there. My bottom smaller screw was like 1 turn out and my big boy screw was 2. Once at 2.5 each I could back off the choke idle adjustment on the top of the back of the carb, which most people probable use to make it idle. That thing is only supposed to touch and then 1/4 of a turn after the car is completely warmed up. Mine now idles at 850, even with the base settings of 2.5. Now mine is running a little warm which was the same as the old carb, which looks like one of these that's 10 years old. This is where crucial information is missing and I am going to provided, with pictures! It has a 127 main/55 idle installed just like my other carb. It comes with an extra 137/60 jets. The 60 ran awful and with the 127 my car was running hot, 137/55 runs pretty good but is really rich, the temps better but still 229 ish. Now I came to realize in all this that the top down on the vert ,the rain guard, combined with chrome tins was a losing battle. Took off the rain guard and popped the trunk, temps came way down at around 205. So I ordered solex/mukini jets for 10 bucks and I am going to run a 130 now. Probably what it should have came with as an extra as 127 to 137 is a lot. From what I have read in the charts online California came with 127 back in the day which is probably a tad lean for emissions. Do your own research, it is amazing I drove one of these as a kid, pre internet, and all the things I didn't know that I am learning!

When first installed, my 74 SP would not start when cold. I adjusted the choke screw but it didn't help. The solution was to adjust the electric choke. Loosen the three screws around the round electric coil and rotate it so that the choke is slightly open. Do this when car is cold. The car needs some air to start. If the butterfly is completely closed, there is no air entering the carburetor. Runs fine now.

Good deal

This carb was literally plug and play, zero adjustment was necessary. My carb was prolly original to the 70' Bug and was just worn out. I did not want to rebuild it so when I seen this one I found I didn't have to. For the price I wasn't expecting too much but boy was I wrong. This is a quality product and I am very happy with it. I installed it on my stock 1600 cranked it over for a few seconds, hit the throttle a couple of times and it not only fired right off but it also idled with out issue... Very happy and defiantly recommend this carb...

The media could not be loaded. Our 1961 Bug with a Brazilian Solex carb was having issues sputtering, stalling (especially going downhill), and was dieseling/running on after ignition shutoff. This carb fixed all of those problems and now she runs better than ever.A few things to note:It comes pre-mounted with an adapter to fit this 30/31 carb on a 34 manifold. Take this off if you're doing a straight swap of a 30/31.Our car was originally 6V and converted to 12 volt at some point. Due to the larger generator, the carb wouldn't fit initially as it was just a tad bulkier in that spot than our old one. We had to buy a spacer. 1/2" and 1" spacers are readily available from many vendors. You will also likely have this issue if you have a generator to alternator conversion.You will have to adjust this carb after installing, and the number of turns for the screws may not match what would tune a genuine Solex. At first it was idling very slow and running very rich. I discovered that the volume control screw will go in quite a few turns tighter than you would intially think; it doesn't turn as easily as on the old Solex. Once I figured this out, I was able to adjust the mixture and idle properly. Note in my video that our car runs and drives best with the idle set a bit fast.Can't beat the price on this and it looks great. I also like that it has a barbed fuel inlet which appears to be threaded in, which provides some fire protection.We have the 009 distributor and the notorious 2nd gear flat spot is very noticeable before the car gets warmed up. After it's warm it's not a big deal.Will it stand the test of time? We'll see; so far, so good!