ICM Controls ICM288 Rheem 62-24084-82 Furnace Control Replacement

I have now purchased two of these units for two different Rheem furnaces. The first, two years ago, and the second was just installed. The board connections are clearly labeled, with connections in almost the exact locations as the original boards. (see the first photo). After disconnecting power from the furnace, I removed and carefully labeled the wires to ensure I put them back in the correct locations. The original board was held in place by nylon spacers which I chose to cut rather than simply remove by squeezing with pliers (either method would work, but the board comes with replacement standoffs).In my specific furnace, the location of two of the standoffs was different enough they wouldn't fit in, so I cut the bottom off and used them as spacers. As the top and bottom fit correctly, this is not an issue. The total replacement time was a little over an hour.Appreciate that there are three bright LED's to show power, firing and fault detection by the board. As the board is easy to install if you label the wires, shown solid reliability for two years, and a much lower price than similar options, it is a good option. Much cheaper than the service technician's statement that a control board can't be found for my brand furnace and it must be replacedThumbs up.

I have 3 Ruud furnaces, all of which use these control boards. Over the past 2 years I've had to replace the control boards on 2 of them (after 20 years of service). This control board works perfectly in my Ruud furnace, and was easy to install. Sometimes things just look too good to be true, but this board is "the real deal", and I got what I consider the "deal of the year" on this board.By not having to rely on a furnace repair person to come out and sell me a "factory approved replacement board at full retail", I saved a crap load of money. Thank you so much for offering such a high quality product at such a fantastic price! I am in no way affiliated with the seller, or manufacturer of this product, but feel compelled to let everyone know that this is really a great deal. It's going to take something really special to "wow" me like this control board has. The schematic and installation instructions are in "ENGLISH", without the "grammatical errors" so often found with cheap imported electronics.ICM Controls ICM288 Furnace Control, Low Cost Replacement for Rheem 62-24084-82 Control Boards

No reason to pay more than double for a factory control board in a furnace that's old enough to buy beer -- especially considering it was installed with the furnace roasting the oil residue in the evaluator coil. Maybe that's just how they used to do it, or maybe it was installed by an amateur. Don't know, don't care.The only thing missing on this board is the LED indicator lights, and surely some uptight people will complain about that. I see it as a savings of like $30-40 per omitted LED. Every wire connected to the exact same spot as on the original board.A fan wire was disconnected already and I didn't bother to investigate why, so ran the unit with it disconnected. Fair warning: if you run the furnace without connecting the common wire for the fan, the fire WILL come on and things will get very hot. Yes, I'm an idiot. ....but, in my defense, the furnace exhaust fan was really loud so I didn't notice.In fact, it let a little smoke out. Guessing a limit stitch is either fused closed or was otherwise compromised, allowing it to roast with no circulation fan for about 1.5-2 minutes. Will bother to investigate next year before furnace season. For now, the air conditioner works so I'm stoked.P.S. Thank you Amazon for not asking me to rate the sheerness of this item, but asking me to rate the warmth of a furnace control board is equally stupid.

Comprehensive comments follow, but for those of you in TL;DR mode, here's the key summary:1. In addition to turning off power at the breaker box, remember that capacitors on the board can still shock you, so consider wearing latex/vinyl gloves and be careful;2. Take a photo, be sure to label all your wires as you remove them, and write down their color and the ID on the terminal you pull them from. It's strictly plug and play, no rewiring is necessary. The new board has terminals labeled identically to the old, but they aren't in exactly the same spots as the old board;3. If your new board has screw terminals for the thermostat wires, strongly consider putting some crimp-on spade terminals on your 'stat wires before starting. Getting the bare wires onto (under) the screw terminals was the hardest, most tedious, part of the job. A real b----.For those who want more info, here's the long version. I could have paid the furnace repair guy nearly $600 to put a board in for me (that was their quote), but that's a foolhardy expenditure on a 25 YO furnace. Probably any expenditure is, but until times are better, can't really spend thousands putting in a new furnace. So trying to get by for now, spending a hundred on this board is a risk worth taking in my opinion. With the extremely helpful review posted by Richard Moore, I was willing to give this a try. I will say that this was not a difficult job, but if you aren't at all handy, and have never done anything like install a light fixture, or a car stereo in-dash, maybe this isn't a great project to cut your teeth on.First off, I DL'd the installation instructions at the time I bought the board so that I could bone up and be ready for the job. DO NOT DO THAT! The download instructions talk about having to pull the orange flame sensor wire out of its plug, attaching it to a new connector to Y it off to both plugs on the board. That had me freaking out a little. The instructions that come with the board are different, and no wiring changes are necessary, it's strictly put the new board in and plug the wires back on.But while I'm mentioning the flame sensor, pay attention to Mr. Moore's comments about that. If your furnace is older and doesn't have a flame sensor, you're going to need an additional kit.Mr. Moore's review and photos are so good I'll only add a little more. Of course make sure that you turn off the power before starting, and remember that capacitors on the board can still shock you. I didn't wear gloves but was careful; wearing latex/vinyl/nitrile gloves wouldn't be a bad idea.Before starting take a photo of the old board and all its connections. As you remove the wires from it, label them and make a list. The new board has identical labels on it for re-attaching, but some of the terminals are in different locations.Mr. Moore mentioned that his new board had push-in terminals instead of screws for the thermostat wires, and he had to cut the bend hooks off his wires. I wish my board had come that way. My new one had screw terminals but they were much smaller and tighter together than the old board, and separated by plastic insulators. I could not get my old wires squeezed in under the screws no matter how hard I tried, with needle nose, tweezers, whatever I could think of. After an hour I gave up and had to completely remove every screw, loop wire around, replace. Threading them back into the holes while keeping the wires on and without dropping them (which happened multiple times) wasn't easy, this was the hardest part of the job. If your new board comes with screw terminals for the thermostat wires, get some spade lugs to crimp onto the wires. I think you'll thank me later.Good luck!