Creality Official Ender 3 3D Printer Fully Open Source with Resume Printing All Metal Frame FDM DIY Printers with Resume Printing Function 220x220x250mm

Excelente equipo. El ensamble es bastante intuitivo y con ayuda del manual lo llevas bien. Desde la primera impresión salió excelente.

I bought this printer as well as the Prusa Mini+. Surprisingly, this printer turns out to be easier to manage and comes up with better and nicer prints. The Prusa Mini+ had some initial teething problems - particularly pertaining to prints being dislodged as it was not sticking to the print plate. I used glue-stick and finally decided to use 90% IPA alcohol solutions, which eventually worked. During this time, the Creality became my most reliable 3D printer! This printer was certainly worth more than the price I had paid and I would recommend anyone who is interested in 3D printing to get one! I absolutely didn't regret making the jump - even though I heard horrible stories about support for this printer.

bom

価格に比べて非常にクオリティが高いので満足です。梱包も完璧で開封時に何の心配もありませんでした。組み立てに必要な工具はすべて同梱されていました。テスト印刷用のフィラーも少しだけ同梱されていてありがたいです。 microSDカード（説明書とスライスソフト、ドライバ入り）がＵＳＢアダプタにセットされた状態で同梱されているので、同封されている紙の説明書ではなくまずはmicroSDの中のＰＤＦの説明書を読みましょう。こちらに組み立ての詳細説明が日本語で書かれています。 組み立てと調整が少し必要なので初心者よりは中級者向けなのかもしれません。テーブルのレベル調整の方法は説明書に詳しく書かれています。上部で平らな台の上で作業すると組み立て精度が出しやすいです。ベースのフレームはモータドライバとテーブルのスライドが組み立てられた状態で梱包されていますが、足部分の部品をいったん緩めて平らな台の上で締めなおすと良いです。結束バンドが同梱されていますが、ケーブル類のどの部分をどうやって固定するかは書かれていないですが工夫して固定しました。 スライスソフト（日本語対応）の設定項目はとても細かく、上級者でも様々な材料のための条件出しの研究が十分できます。印刷時の騒音はとても小さいです。自分で調整した設定はすべて名前を付けて登録できるのでとても便利です。スライスソフトからはgcodeが出力されます。設定でフレーバが選べるので他のプリンタ用にも使えると思います。Ender3はMarlinフレーバのようです。ソフトからはプリンタを選択するだけで必要な情報（機械の寸法情報、gcodeヘッダフッタなど）がすべて自動で入力されます。完全にカスタム値を入力することもできるのでプリンタを改造したり自作したものにも対応できそうです。私はマイクロＳＤカードにgcodeを保存してプリンタ正面のmicroSDスロットに挿入して、カードから印刷しています。 ステッピングモータの動作も滑らかで速いです。標準設定でＡＢＳ，ＰＬＡが問題なく印刷できました。ＴＰＵは少し調整が必要でしたが押し出し量１２０％に修正したら層間剥離なく密着されて良好な印刷ができました。印刷中にパネルでベッド・ホットエンド温度を変更できるのが便利です。

I love this printer! I have a CR-10s and wanted to add another printer as I'll be selling parts and need to increase my print capacity. Overall, I'm more impressed with this little powerhouse than I am with my CR-10s though they use much of the same components and are built using very similar hardware. I'll outline the similarities and differences below. I print PLA and PLA+ from Hatchbox and eSun (200c and 210c respectively) but otherwise my Cura settings are the same for both (tweaked default Cura profiles). While it's nice to have the extra print volume, I prefer the Ender 3 and for the price I will probably be buying several more! Similarities include: frame parts and hardware (sizing differs), hot end, bowden tube, X and Y axis motor and drive belt. Differences: Smaller print volume (Ender 220x220x250; CR10 300x300x400) All-in-one design (doesn't have a 'ball-and-chain' control box like the CR-10 does) Single Z axis motor and rod (CR-10 has a dual Z motor/rod) Coated print bed (CR-10 comes with a glass bed) Large, easy to adjust bed leveling knobs (CR-10 has annoying small bed leveling knobs) Filament spool mount at the top of the frame (CR-10 mounted on control box) No color inserts, straight black frame *UPDATE: My hot end seems to have died after printing great for a couple days. I will be returning and re-ordering because I loved this little printer so much while it was working. Unfortunately, the hot end is permanently wired into the control box so a part swap wouldn't be easy. Re-ordering a new printer is the way to go on this one. It started as under-extrusion halfway through a print. Then I noticed the extruder gear would push filament and then snap back like there was resistance somewhere along the line. I ruled out the extruder gear by running the extruder without filament, it worked as expected. It would only do this when it tried to push filament through the nozzle. The next logical step was to clean it out in case there was a partial clog, unlikely since it was a brand new printer. All cleaned and still no luck. It actually seemed to be getting worse. The more I tried to trouble shoot, the less filament would come out of the hot end. Eventually, the hot end no longer reach a temp capable of melting the filament and I couldn't even hand feed filament through. The screen read 210c but the hot end was barely heated at all. Return processed, printer re-ordered. The assembly was a breeze and I'm sure I can get the new one printing in an hour or so now that I've gone through the assembly once already. I'll edit with another update soon... UPDATE 2: The new printer has been running like a gem for a few weeks now. I LOVE this little thing. I won't post a long-winded update. I'll just say that returning and re-ordering through Amazon was a breeze as always and in my opinion makes it work the extra money over some other lower-priced options outside of Amazon. That's all folks! Now I need to get back to printing!